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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-12-2012, 02:27 PM   #1456
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Page 28 Sec.43
i can not get these shocks dialed in,
i believe iam doing them wrong. not like others ive done.
and why these do not have a bladder?
ems
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Old 10-12-2012, 02:27 PM   #1457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Ahhhh I ran mine in the rear. I'm guessing that's a huge adjustment.
You know Mr. King, it says in the manual to put it in the front.
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Old 10-12-2012, 02:32 PM   #1458
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Originally Posted by Eric Summers View Post
Page 28 Sec.43
i can not get these shocks dialed in,
i believe iam doing them wrong. not like others ive done.
and why these do not have a bladder?
ems
Check out this video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GE73s4Sv5SY
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Old 10-12-2012, 02:46 PM   #1459
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Yep, best video as far as explanation and simplicity. Works every time.
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Old 10-12-2012, 03:19 PM   #1460
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Thankyou guys.
but isn't there supposed to be rebound?
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Old 10-12-2012, 03:20 PM   #1461
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Originally Posted by Eric Summers View Post
Thankyou guys.
but isn't there supposed to be rebound?
No, I don't know of many people that intentionally run rebound anymore.
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Old 10-12-2012, 03:47 PM   #1462
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Proves what I don't know.
i believe "I've got an angle"
yes it as all clear now (not my oil).
Thax all again,
they seem to be good now.
ems
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Old 10-12-2012, 03:48 PM   #1463
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Can I get a newbie explanation for 0 rebound?
I've read the same for my TA-05 that no rebound is preferable. Is that because the spring does all the 'rebound'?
Also for no rebound do we just push the piston all the way up when re-assembling the shock?
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:47 PM   #1464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Entr0phy View Post
First thing you want to do is remove any flashings off the arms or bulkhead. These little plastic pieces, from when you break the arms off the tree, will obviously cause binding. Secondly, make sure the holes in the arms and bulkhead are not too tight for the hinge pin. Sometimes, you will need to take an xacto blade and make the holes larger, so that the hinge pins can move freely. Just be careful not to make them too large. A body reamer will also work well for this task. I would also check to make sure that your hinge pins are inserted in the front bulkhead/arms in the proper orientation. There is a long and short segment on either side of the space for the set screw. I believe the short side goes in first, while the long side is up front and captured by the hinge pin brace ( I could be mistaking on the direction, defer to your manual to make sure). Also, make sure your set screw is not overtightened, if it is, this will bind up the arms. I had absolutely no binding when I built this car...hopefully this helps.
I did the first 2 things and i guess what is causing the binding is the fact that, when i inserted the little screw which prevents the hinge pin to come out of place, the whole where the hinge pin is supposed to get in is tightened like if the plastic of the screw hole comes to this second hole (where the hinge pin goes). It's quite hard to explain ahahah

I'll use an arm reamer or some other hardware to get some plastic off... This does not happen in an Xray kit for example... It's my first Kyosho though.

Thanks people
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Old 10-12-2012, 08:39 PM   #1465
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With a non-bladder shock, it's pretty much impossible to get any rebound if you build the shock correctly. You either can push the shaft in the whole way with no rebound, or the shock will hydraulic because there is no bladder to compensate for the increased volume (the volume of the shock shaft itself) inside the shock body.
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:19 PM   #1466
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Some more Yoshi love.
Finally sprayed the body after 2 weeks of running a stickered up body Red seems to be the thing now, so i went another route.
Attached Thumbnails
Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-body-large-.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-lleft-large-.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-right-large-.jpg  
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:28 PM   #1467
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yeti AS3 View Post
Some more Yoshi love.
Finally sprayed the body after 2 weeks of running a stickered up body Red seems to be the thing now, so i went another route.
Can i ask where did you get that CF battery strap and brace
from?
cheers
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Old 10-12-2012, 10:57 PM   #1468
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Energyzer View Post
I did the first 2 things and i guess what is causing the binding is the fact that, when i inserted the little screw which prevents the hinge pin to come out of place, the whole where the hinge pin is supposed to get in is tightened like if the plastic of the screw hole comes to this second hole (where the hinge pin goes). It's quite hard to explain ahahah

I'll use an arm reamer or some other hardware to get some plastic off... This does not happen in an Xray kit for example... It's my first Kyosho though.

Thanks people
Not too sure what you mean with the set screw, just make sure it is not too tight so that the hinge pins can freely move. Xray kits do have an incredible fit and finish, but I found my rb6 to be on par with my Xray 808. Anyway, good luck.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
Will the Lunsford RB5 titanium turnbuckle kit fit the rb6? And which one, it seems that they make a couple different kits depending on which rb5 you have. Thanks.
The turnbuckles are the same between the 5 and 6. I used these on the 5, and they should work fine on the 6.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Turnbuckle-Kit


Quote:
Originally Posted by toast. View Post
Can I get a newbie explanation for 0 rebound?
I've read the same for my TA-05 that no rebound is preferable. Is that because the spring does all the 'rebound'?
Also for no rebound do we just push the piston all the way up when re-assembling the shock?
After you have bled your shocks, compress the shock all the way by holding onto the eyelet. If it does not move down at all when you release it; then you have 0 rebound. If the shaft moves down; then you have rebound. As others have stated, most do not run rebound. Watch the video on how to build kyosho shocks. To achieve no rebound when you are building your shocks; bleed out enough oil that when it is compressed fully, the piston is not pushed down at all. Just make sure that a consistent amount of resistance is felt when moving the piston though the shock body with no spring on it. You can incorrectly build a shock with no rebound because there is not enough oil to fill the body and resist the motion of the piston throughout its full travel.

Last edited by Entr0phy; 10-12-2012 at 11:16 PM.
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Old 10-13-2012, 01:01 AM   #1469
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Now I want a Full Scale RB6 1:1
Oh yes i will
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Old 10-13-2012, 02:48 AM   #1470
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Hey guys. I am on step 10 and have a quick question....the Japanese set up calls for a caster block setting of 4 degrees. Is that achieved by using the hub bushings (a4 and b4)?

Thanks.
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