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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-12-2012, 08:42 AM   #1441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitronut3 View Post
Tried a set of golds on the car last night at practice, car was money, but now I need to address a slight push comming out of the corner, I tried lowering the front link my removing the outer shim on the hub but it got worse. Anyone have any suggestions? Only think I can think of is diff front tires or move the front camber link in a hole to make it longer
Playing with your front roll center really isn't going to affect on-power steering (much). Roll center affects roll resistance, but exiting a corner you are lifting weight off the front tires, and pulling that end of the car OUT of it's roll. You can keep more weight on the front tires with the following:

1. More static weight on the front of the car
2. Less front droop
3. More Anti-squat
4. Stiffer rear springs/oil
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 10-12-2012 at 09:08 AM.
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:04 AM   #1442
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Alright guys im about to jump the gun and get one of these cars.
After reading most of the thread this morning, this is probably
a better choice to the Losi 22 which is in fact kinda similar.
I notice most of you are running 22-23 tooth pinions with an 8.5 motor.

Are you guys using the kit included shock oil? Or would it better to change it?
Thanks, because im probably gonna be running on a dusty outdoor track.
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:09 AM   #1443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ???E-Racer View Post
this is probablya better choice to the Losi 22 which is in fact kinda similar.
It's not similar to the 22, other than it has an aluminum chassis. So does the gold pan RC10. But you are right in that it is certainly a better choice, as long as parts and support is adequate for you. Both cars get around the track.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ???E-Racer View Post
Are you guys using the kit included shock oil? Or would it better to change it?
Thanks, because im probably gonna be running on a dusty outdoor track.
The kit shock oil is a tad light
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:12 AM   #1444
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hahaha the joke in that is that there isn't oils included in the kit.
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:13 AM   #1445
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use the Japan set up, its on here somewhere, that was at a track similar to your track as described.
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:24 AM   #1446
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Amazing that a car with aluminum chassis and a narrow look must be exactly like a 22. Lol
I will never miss my 22. This wasn't directed at anyone in particular but it is just laughable that all over the Internet the car is being called a 22 copy. It will be great when the 22 cars at my track get lapped!!!
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Old 10-12-2012, 09:52 AM   #1447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Energyzer View Post
Thanks for the help on the plugs guys!

I've built the front end, and the arms are quite stuck... Not moving freely! I don't know what i've done wrong, but i checked it and the shaft that goes inside the arm gets tightened when it reachs the arm... Don't know if i'm being clear enough!

Laters
First thing you want to do is remove any flashings off the arms or bulkhead. These little plastic pieces, from when you break the arms off the tree, will obviously cause binding. Secondly, make sure the holes in the arms and bulkhead are not too tight for the hinge pin. Sometimes, you will need to take an xacto blade and make the holes larger, so that the hinge pins can move freely. Just be careful not to make them too large. A body reamer will also work well for this task. I would also check to make sure that your hinge pins are inserted in the front bulkhead/arms in the proper orientation. There is a long and short segment on either side of the space for the set screw. I believe the short side goes in first, while the long side is up front and captured by the hinge pin brace ( I could be mistaking on the direction, defer to your manual to make sure). Also, make sure your set screw is not overtightened, if it is, this will bind up the arms. I had absolutely no binding when I built this car...hopefully this helps.
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Old 10-12-2012, 10:02 AM   #1448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitronut3 View Post
Tried a set of golds on the car last night at practice, car was money, but now I need to address a slight push comming out of the corner, I tried lowering the front link my removing the outer shim on the hub but it got worse. Anyone have any suggestions? Only think I can think of is diff front tires or move the front camber link in a hole to make it longer
you could try moving the rear hubs back a bit to remove a little forward bite which would then give back some on power steering
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Old 10-12-2012, 11:44 AM   #1449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Posvar View Post
Amazing that a car with aluminum chassis and a narrow look must be exactly like a 22. Lol
I will never miss my 22. This wasn't directed at anyone in particular but it is just laughable that all over the Internet the car is being called a 22 copy. It will be great when the 22 cars at my track get lapped!!!
I knew you guys would get a good laugh. Well shock oil is pretty cheap
so they probably didnt include it because the car really needs to be adjusted
to your driving style. Most people dont use the kit oil anyhow
unless it's an AE kit. Yeah I wanna kick some 22 butt with the Kyosho as well. LOL
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Old 10-12-2012, 11:46 AM   #1450
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ???E-Racer View Post
I knew you guys would get a good laugh. Well shock oil is pretty cheap
so they probably didnt include it because the car really needs to be adjusted
to your driving style. Most people dont use the kit oil anyhow
unless it's an AE kit.
Yep.. same reason they don't include tires.
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Old 10-12-2012, 12:19 PM   #1451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ???E-Racer View Post
Alright guys im about to jump the gun and get one of these cars.
After reading most of the thread this morning, this is probably
a better choice to the Losi 22 which is in fact kinda similar.
I notice most of you are running 22-23 tooth pinions with an 8.5 motor.

Are you guys using the kit included shock oil? Or would it better to change it?
Thanks, because im probably gonna be running on a dusty outdoor track.
No shock oil is included.
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Old 10-12-2012, 12:55 PM   #1452
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Mine didn't come with shock oil
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Old 10-12-2012, 01:25 PM   #1453
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Will the Lunsford RB5 titanium turnbuckle kit fit the rb6? And which one, it seems that they make a couple different kits depending on which rb5 you have. Thanks.
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Old 10-12-2012, 02:12 PM   #1454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Jason, where are you running the rear arm shim? F or R?
The one on the inside? 2mm? I have it on the front side.
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Old 10-12-2012, 02:20 PM   #1455
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Ahhhh I ran mine in the rear. I'm guessing that's a huge adjustment.
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