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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread

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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 09-09-2017, 10:29 PM
  #14386  
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Originally Posted by oPAULo
Yup. Big weight savings for stock class. I just double stick tape a block of foam under a stock battery strap.
That's what I did. Seems to work well.

How come this buggy seems rare to see at the track? At least it is here in the north east. Such a great buggy! Went from top of the B mains to tq A main two weeks in a row.
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Old 09-10-2017, 07:36 PM
  #14387  
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What's a fair price to sell a modded rb6.6 with titanium turnbuckles, ball and gear diff, turnbuckle carbon battery strap/waterfall eliminator etc... and several sets of pucks?May be selling one of many I have just curious what to list it for? Thx all
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Old 09-11-2017, 04:27 PM
  #14388  
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Hey folks,

I'm in need of some front/rear wheel options for my RB6.6. My local track primarily only carries AE, Xray, and Losi stuff so I'm hoping buggy wheels from these manufacturers have the same offsets/dimensions as our RB6s? Can anyone please shed some light on this? I've searched, but have come up with some rather conflicting information.

Thanks!
Tommy
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Old 09-11-2017, 04:35 PM
  #14389  
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Originally Posted by Tommy R
Hey folks,

I'm in need of some front/rear wheel options for my RB6.6. My local track primarily only carries AE, Xray, and Losi stuff so I'm hoping buggy wheels from these manufacturers have the same offsets/dimensions as our RB6s? Can anyone please shed some light on this? I've searched, but have come up with some rather conflicting information.

Thanks!
Tommy
AE is the same.
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Old 09-11-2017, 05:08 PM
  #14390  
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Originally Posted by oPAULo
AE is the same.
Thank you! Quick follow up... B5? B6? Or does it matter?
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Old 09-11-2017, 05:12 PM
  #14391  
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Originally Posted by Tommy R
Thank you! Quick follow up... B5? B6? Or does it matter?
All the same offset.
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Old 09-12-2017, 10:56 AM
  #14392  
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Raw Speed Wheels are lighter than all the usual suspects by a few grams. I'll try to get some real measurements but I recently picked these up and I was pleasantly surprised.
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Old 09-12-2017, 01:45 PM
  #14393  
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Little slipper help - followed Jared Tebos videos on rebuilding diff and setting up slipper but never really got either my mid engine RB6's to pop wheelies when holding the rear tires - should i be worried?

I've rebuilt them 2-3 times each to the same effect.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMobqSS3JkI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uf0do3YArfM
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Old 09-12-2017, 02:42 PM
  #14394  
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine
Raw Speed Wheels are lighter than all the usual suspects by a few grams. I'll try to get some real measurements but I recently picked these up and I was pleasantly surprised.
Thanks for the heads up! That's Jason from Short Course World on youtube, isn't it? I ordered a set of wheels to try out.
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Old 09-12-2017, 03:13 PM
  #14395  
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Its Jared Tebo - dont know much about him other then he races and has nice "build" videos.
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Old 09-12-2017, 03:31 PM
  #14396  
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Originally Posted by toast.
Little slipper help - followed Jared Tebos videos on rebuilding diff and setting up slipper but never really got either my mid engine RB6's to pop wheelies when holding the rear tires - should i be worried?

I've rebuilt them 2-3 times each to the same effect.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMobqSS3JkI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uf0do3YArfM
Yes. You should be worried. Something is wrong.
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Old 09-12-2017, 03:33 PM
  #14397  
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Originally Posted by Tommy R
Thanks for the heads up! That's Jason from Short Course World on youtube, isn't it? I ordered a set of wheels to try out.
Yes. Raw Speed is Jason from SCW. Good products.
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Old 09-13-2017, 06:46 AM
  #14398  
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Originally Posted by toast.
Little slipper help - followed Jared Tebos videos on rebuilding diff and setting up slipper but never really got either my mid engine RB6's to pop wheelies when holding the rear tires - should i be worried?

I've rebuilt them 2-3 times each to the same effect.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VMobqSS3JkI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uf0do3YArfM
Try these steps.
1. Sometimes having to much timing in a motor will cause the motor to cog when trying to adjust the slipper. So check the timing and sensor wire to make sure they are properly set and attached.
2. Disassemble the slipper and look at the pads. Do they have a nice shiny finish to them? If so, lightly scrape the pad until the shine disappears.
3. Check the slipper plates. Make sure they are not damaged and that the color of each side is similar.
4. Reassemble the slipper according to the manual except when it comes to tightening the lock nut. I would tighten it completely until it bottoms out. It will not hurt much for the short time it will be locked down.
5. Now blip the throttle on the radio and see if the front wheels come up. If they do then proceed to backing the nut off of the slipper. If it doesn’t, and it makes a noise like something is slipping then your diff might still be loose and you will need to tighten it.
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Old 09-14-2017, 10:11 AM
  #14399  
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I'm running kimbrough/AE gears and running the McKune slipper pads. Best combo i've run yet. The kyosho stock pads seem to fade quickly.
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Old 09-14-2017, 10:23 AM
  #14400  
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Originally Posted by JAE
Using most of this setup as my stock carpet car. Worked great. Changes I made to this were all the shims on top (your suggestion) of the front spindle vs bottom. Gave me more off power steering and allowed me to push harder on throttle. Brass front pivot is great and not too heavy. Tried with longer links on front with flat arms which calmed entry steering a bit. However, changed to B6 gullwing front arms and that calmed entry and gave me more mid and exit as well as smoothed out the steering and went back to regular front links. good stuff. If I need a little less or more steering I just work in 0.5mm increments on the steering rack back or forward. Great base setup.
Ive tried almost the same set up in mod. Running GW B6 arms, red springs up front and no rear sway bars. It's working good for me.
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