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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-11-2012, 08:59 PM   #1426
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Originally Posted by Weazsel View Post
A short vid of my buddy running some practice laps. The car is just so so good.
Gorgeous track too!
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Old 10-11-2012, 09:26 PM   #1427
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GOD BLESS AMERICA

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Old 10-11-2012, 09:58 PM   #1428
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I know I havent seen your car in a while Jason but with my sp2 I was running 72/31... with a high torque rotor (thunder power motor) and the car was ballistic and clearing the triple for the whole pack as well. thats what im gonna start this beast at... any input?
If I can throw my hat in. I was having problems clearing the triples on the current WCRC layout. Was suggested to me to go to a 70/34 (this highest I can go with my Losi spur and pads, now that triple is super simple to clear, and I still have more then enough torque when I need it. This is with a grey can orion Pro Stock with the timing pegged. Motor got to maybe 140 after about 10 minutes each run. The difference in top speed just going up those 2 teeth was very very noticeable. First time back at WCRC in over a year, and am already thinking to make it my home track and keep oc/rc for options when wcrc is closed for layout changes or big races I don't enter.
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Old 10-11-2012, 10:01 PM   #1429
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good to hear....Clear the big triple yet...?
Was having trouble with 70/32, went up on recommendation to 70/34, the triples my b***h now lol..... I just need to land it better. One thing is very true about this car as opposed to any car I have ever driven before and today just confirmed it, This thing can be thrown around unlike any other car I have driven, and in the course of the last year and a half with a few breaks in between, I think I have gone through them all, minus 22 (yuck), Cougar SVR, and a Yokomo. And I finally broke a 22 second lap for the first time this year on any car on a track (yes still slow) but there is no way I would have even come close to that lap time with a Losi, AE, or Durango. I just would not have happened.
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Old 10-11-2012, 10:13 PM   #1430
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Sounds good Mr Copeland...

I will see you at WC on Friday then.
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Old 10-11-2012, 10:19 PM   #1431
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Sounds good Mr Copeland...

I will see you at WC on Friday then.
I have band practice in the afternoon, I might stop by to check out racing, but I probably wont hit the track again until Saturday.
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Old 10-11-2012, 11:08 PM   #1432
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Originally Posted by Energyzer View Post
Thanks for the help on the plugs guys!

I've built the front end, and the arms are quite stuck... Not moving freely! I don't know what i've done wrong, but i checked it and the shaft that goes inside the arm gets tightened when it reachs the arm... Don't know if i'm being clear enough!

Laters
Yes. (Although I made a mistake building that part) I still had to ream the holes in the arms and hinge pin mount to set them free. Cheers,
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Old 10-11-2012, 11:29 PM   #1433
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Jason, where are you running the rear arm shim? F or R?
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Old 10-12-2012, 12:45 AM   #1434
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Was having trouble with 70/32, went up on recommendation to 70/34, the triples my b***h now lol..... I just need to land it better. One thing is very true about this car as opposed to any car I have ever driven before and today just confirmed it, This thing can be thrown around unlike any other car I have driven, and in the course of the last year and a half with a few breaks in between, I think I have gone through them all, minus 22 (yuck), Cougar SVR, and a Yokomo. And I finally broke a 22 second lap for the first time this year on any car on a track (yes still slow) but there is no way I would have even come close to that lap time with a Losi, AE, or Durango. I just would not have happened.

Yea I hear ya! it was my 2nd night back on the dirt after about 4months on carpet. and played with gearing and timing quite a bit and had settled on the 31 bc of my more aggressive driving style and wanted to keep temps down. my motor also had a 12.5 rotor. my car had plenty of bottom and gained on all other 17.5 cars down the straight but jason and nolan and the resto f the faster locals werent there.
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Old 10-12-2012, 12:46 AM   #1435
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Also anyone have any techniques on removing the front caster inserts?
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Old 10-12-2012, 04:19 AM   #1436
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i put the nose of needle nose pliers in the hole and press it out pretty easily but since im playing with this area for testing purposes i started to put a smalll amount off black grease there to make it a bit easier. by the way i use the needle nose with both tips in the hole so i dont booger it up they are very small tip pliers
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Old 10-12-2012, 04:43 AM   #1437
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Tried a set of golds on the car last night at practice, car was money, but now I need to address a slight push comming out of the corner, I tried lowering the front link my removing the outer shim on the hub but it got worse. Anyone have any suggestions? Only think I can think of is diff front tires or move the front camber link in a hole to make it longer
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Old 10-12-2012, 07:29 AM   #1438
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Tried a set of golds on the car last night at practice, car was money, but now I need to address a slight push comming out of the corner, I tried lowering the front link my removing the outer shim on the hub but it got worse. Anyone have any suggestions? Only think I can think of is diff front tires or move the front camber link in a hole to make it longer
If you've got push, it more then likely is tires. What are you running now? What track conditions?
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Old 10-12-2012, 08:10 AM   #1439
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Cut red losi 7206's and cut ss rebars, red aka foam in the rear and open cell in the front
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Old 10-12-2012, 08:26 AM   #1440
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you may want to try a tire that doesn't produce so much forward bite in the rear to free the car up.

something like barcodes, vektors, 3D's, suburbs etc..

are there any other tires being used on track?
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