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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-11-2012, 02:28 PM   #1396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
8.5? I think 8.5 guys typically run a 22 or 23, somebody correct me if im wrong..

The esc usually gets directly soldered to the motor. A to A, B to B, and C to C. And last but not least, the sensor wire is just plugged in. The ESC gets plugged into the receiver, just like your servo. Once up and running, you need to learn how to calibrate your ESC/radio. Each manufacturer has their own steps for calibration.
Thanks man! I bought in 2 diff shops (car from one and the rest of the parts from another). About the pinion: i asked the guy from the shop to give me whatever he thinks it's best for our tracks here (astro) and for that motor, and he gave me that one...

What about the 2 wires that go into the battery? Don't they need to get some kind of connector at the end of each wire?!
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Old 10-11-2012, 02:47 PM   #1397
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Solder the connector which your batteries use.
Popular connectors are deans and 4mm bulllet connector.

Deans:


Bullet:



Quote:
Originally Posted by Energyzer View Post
Thanks man! I bought in 2 diff shops (car from one and the rest of the parts from another). About the pinion: i asked the guy from the shop to give me whatever he thinks it's best for our tracks here (astro) and for that motor, and he gave me that one...

What about the 2 wires that go into the battery? Don't they need to get some kind of connector at the end of each wire?!
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Old 10-11-2012, 03:05 PM   #1398
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Energyzer View Post
Thanks man! I bought in 2 diff shops (car from one and the rest of the parts from another). About the pinion: i asked the guy from the shop to give me whatever he thinks it's best for our tracks here (astro) and for that motor, and he gave me that one...

What about the 2 wires that go into the battery? Don't they need to get some kind of connector at the end of each wire?!
yep! + to +, and - to -. You can use any plug that matches on both sides. Personally speaking, your two best choices are either deans plugs, or bullet connectors (both pictured above). If the battery you bought has a deans plug already on it, solder your ESC up with deans plugs. If your battery is bullet plugs, solder the male bullets to your ESC wires. Bullets are better in my opinion, but there is a MUCH greater chance of plugging your battery in backwards, which will usually fry your ESC in an instant (sometimes even with the on/off switch set to off). I personally wire the lengths of my ESC wires so that i CANT plug it in backwards.
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Old 10-11-2012, 03:24 PM   #1399
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" I personally wire the lengths of my ESC wires so that i CANT plug it in backwards."

That is some good advice, going to have to redo my wires. Wish there was a way to better label batteries opposed to a little + and -
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Old 10-11-2012, 03:29 PM   #1400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Energyzer View Post
Thanks man! I bought in 2 diff shops (car from one and the rest of the parts from another). About the pinion: i asked the guy from the shop to give me whatever he thinks it's best for our tracks here (astro) and for that motor, and he gave me that one...

What about the 2 wires that go into the battery? Don't they need to get some kind of connector at the end of each wire?!
I highly suggested you let a more experienced electric racer look at your wiring before you flip the switch
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Old 10-11-2012, 03:31 PM   #1401
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get a red paint marker or red nail Polish and mark the positive side...
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Old 10-11-2012, 03:38 PM   #1402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanyonCarverR1 View Post
I highly suggested you let a more experienced electric racer look at your wiring before you flip the switch
I would as well. Don't plug in the battery till you have everything checked.

With the right motivation(fav. beverage, etc), you might be able to get an experienced electric racer to do the wiring for you and show how you how it is done as they do it.
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Old 10-11-2012, 03:42 PM   #1403
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Is the stock rear toe-in angle on the RB6 3 deg? And, is the only way to adjust rear to by changing rear hubs?
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Old 10-11-2012, 03:49 PM   #1404
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Originally Posted by fullsyzz View Post
Is the stock rear toe-in angle on the RB6 3 deg? And, is the only way to adjust rear to by changing rear hubs?
Yes.
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Old 10-11-2012, 03:55 PM   #1405
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Word.
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Old 10-11-2012, 04:39 PM   #1406
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Default No Slipper

Jason,
Your set-up states you are not running a slipper and 64 pitch gears. I was just wondering how is this achieved and who's gears are you running?

Also not sure how the calculation on 64 pitch gears is but isn't
88/33 * 2.6 = 6.9333 FDR?

Your set up looks fast, I'd like to try this when my RB6 comes

Cheers,


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason.Dias View Post
Does that tire combo work on your RB5 down there?

I made some more adjustments tonight and went even faster!

Started the night with the setup I posted:
http://mobile.liverc.com/results/?d=...K_BUGGY_NT.xml

Then for round 2 I made some adjustments to get the rear end to be a little more locked in after a 180 coming on power. I lowered the rear shock mount to the furthest inside hole. This helped and I went faster.
http://mobile.liverc.com/results/?d=...K_BUGGY_NT.xml

Then for the main I felt it was a little to stiff with the shocks down so I went to a softer spring in the rear, switched to gold rear springs, car was amazing for the mains. I was clicking off 19 second laps like it was nothing.
http://mobile.liverc.com/results/?d=...T_(A_Main).xml

Was on a 19 lap pace (which obliterates anytime a stock buggy has gone on that layout, only the good mod drivers or 4wds go 19 laps) but Kevin Smith and I started waiting for each other so we could race.

I'll make a new setup sheet for what I changed tonight and post it up.
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:05 PM   #1407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toast. View Post
" I personally wire the lengths of my ESC wires so that i CANT plug it in backwards."

That is some good advice, going to have to redo my wires. Wish there was a way to better label batteries opposed to a little + and -
yeah just as POSVAR
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:18 PM   #1408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
How much rear toe are you running?
0

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason.Dias View Post
Does that tire combo work on your RB5 down there?
It always has for me, I may try some run down Rebar fronts.



I also don't know what a few adjustments do:

The outisde front hub adjustment. I'm assuming it does what the inner does, only to a lesser extent? That's what I remember from onroad racing.

I also am not real sure what the rear arm spacing does on the inside arm for the rear.

What the shims on the steering arm do, and the .0x shims on the outside axle do. I dont even remember shimming that except for the 1mm shim on the outside but it looks like people have split that up....
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:39 PM   #1409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigwavedave33 View Post
yeah just as POSVAR
Yes, I have plugged in my Gens Ace packs backwards once.....or twice. Not any more as my packs have red nail polish on them and the wire has been shortened. Thank you very much!!!!
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Old 10-11-2012, 06:40 PM   #1410
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Back on track people!
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