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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-29-2016, 05:47 AM   #14026
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randywhite30 View Post
I've tried a number of things to improve traction including
Reducing shock oil from 30 to 27.5
Making my rear links longer
Moving out the shock on the rear shock tower
And using the same tires as the guys that are going fast at my home track
I've had a few people tell me to switch from a gear diff to a ball diff

Anyone else agree that a ball diff for some reason give bear rear traction?

The changes I've made to this point have made things better but still looking to know if a ball diff really makes traction better over a gear diff
There is no doubt that a ball diff is better on medium grip. We are running a 3 gear laydown on a dirt grooved track and its hooked up. The rb6 steers in hard. I find myself balancing steering and rear grip. Rear grip always overrides my other needs. It's looks like gears diff want to keeps rotating on corner exit. Post up your setup and which track you race at.
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Old 12-29-2016, 06:12 AM   #14027
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^^ What he said. Definitely Ball diff is the way to go.
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Old 12-29-2016, 09:45 AM   #14028
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I've been running my shocks on front since beginning to drive this buggy for more rotation. Did this based on the performance of shocks on front of my other buggies (Xb2 and b6) I wouldn't run those buggies any other way. But, the rb6 has so much steering am contemplating running them on the rear. Anyone opine on their experience on front vs rear shock placement?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Cfconcrete View Post
There is no doubt that a ball diff is better on medium grip. We are running a 3 gear laydown on a dirt grooved track and its hooked up. The rb6 steers in hard. I find myself balancing steering and rear grip. Rear grip always overrides my other needs. It's looks like gears diff want to keeps rotating on corner exit. Post up your setup and which track you race at.
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Old 12-29-2016, 09:59 AM   #14029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randywhite30 View Post
I've tried a number of things to improve traction including
Reducing shock oil from 30 to 27.5
Making my rear links longer
Moving out the shock on the rear shock tower
And using the same tires as the guys that are going fast at my home track
I've had a few people tell me to switch from a gear diff to a ball diff

Anyone else agree that a ball diff for some reason give bear rear traction?

The changes I've made to this point have made things better but still looking to know if a ball diff really makes traction better over a gear diff
What weight fluid are you running in the gear diff?
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Old 12-29-2016, 04:54 PM   #14030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randywhite30 View Post
I've tried a number of things to improve traction including
Reducing shock oil from 30 to 27.5
Making my rear links longer
Moving out the shock on the rear shock tower
And using the same tires as the guys that are going fast at my home track
I've had a few people tell me to switch from a gear diff to a ball diff

Anyone else agree that a ball diff for some reason give bear rear traction?

The changes I've made to this point have made things better but still looking to know if a ball diff really makes traction better over a gear diff
I think a common issue is people think a 2 wheel buggy gear diff somehow translates or is semi-equal to that in a wheeler or sct. unless your on SRS clay or carpet chances are a ball diff is going to do wonders for your car over a gear diff.
At my local track we run slicks all the time and wheelie out of every corner but its still not enough to warrant a gear diff. We have tried it and it actually took grip away from the car on our track.
From what you have explained without knowing the exact surface you will be better off with a ball diff as others have mentioned.
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Old 12-30-2016, 05:55 AM   #14031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
I've been running my shocks on front since beginning to drive this buggy for more rotation. Did this based on the performance of shocks on front of my other buggies (Xb2 and b6) I wouldn't run those buggies any other way. But, the rb6 has so much steering am contemplating running them on the rear. Anyone opine on their experience on front vs rear shock placement?
My son tested it. He's the fast guy in the family. I think it actually makes the car drive weird. I built a 3 gear standup to compare against the 3 gear laydown, the laydown made more usable grip. I had to drive the standup harder and I never hit lap times I could with laydown. If your track has grip, I have no doubt that shocks on the front is better. We are running the Matt Chambers setup adjusted to our layout. We are running 1.7 rear shock Pistons, and a longer wheelbase. Ive been very happy with the laydown on a medium/high grip track. I've been told that our cars do not steer as hard as the B6. We run mod, so we are always balancing steering and grip.
I would have to be really struggling for rear grip to move the shocks to the back of the arms.
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Old 12-30-2016, 06:03 AM   #14032
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I was so confident in the laydown configuration, I turned the standup rb6.6 into a 4 gear laydown car.
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Old 12-30-2016, 07:32 AM   #14033
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I am so confused on how to build this car. There are so many options and I think I know where to start, but I am not sure. I am building a 17.5 car, the track is indoor/outdoor clay. They add dirt glue to the dirt so traction is good.

I was thinking of going 4-gear laydown with shocks on front of arms. I wanted to use the gear diff with 3k in it for easy/Bullitt proof diff. There is only one other RB6.6 at the track and he is running the 3-gear lay-down with shocks on the back of the arms. I was thinking the 4-gear would add more mechanical grip to the car so I should be good to go with shocks on the front of the arms.

Also, how many of you have built the car stock with no aluminum up-grades?
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Old 12-30-2016, 01:16 PM   #14034
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I built a gear diff for my Rb6.6 laydown and it is not smooth or anything compared to the gear diff I just built for my B6d. Night and day comparison
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Old 12-30-2016, 06:51 PM   #14035
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Fluke hit from a SCT. Can't believe it didn't break the tower though.
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Old 12-31-2016, 12:12 AM   #14036
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YANMAN View Post
I am so confused on how to build this car. There are so many options and I think I know where to start, but I am not sure. I am building a 17.5 car, the track is indoor/outdoor clay. They add dirt glue to the dirt so traction is good.

I was thinking of going 4-gear laydown with shocks on front of arms. I wanted to use the gear diff with 3k in it for easy/Bullitt proof diff. There is only one other RB6.6 at the track and he is running the 3-gear lay-down with shocks on the back of the arms. I was thinking the 4-gear would add more mechanical grip to the car so I should be good to go with shocks on the front of the arms.

Also, how many of you have built the car stock with no aluminum up-grades?
If your using a clay compound tire or slicks, I would think a 3 gear laydown would be the way to go for stock racing. Shocks should be on the front.
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Old 12-31-2016, 05:18 AM   #14037
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YANMAN View Post
I am so confused on how to build this car. There are so many options and I think I know where to start, but I am not sure. I am building a 17.5 car, the track is indoor/outdoor clay. They add dirt glue to the dirt so traction is good.

I was thinking of going 4-gear laydown with shocks on front of arms. I wanted to use the gear diff with 3k in it for easy/Bullitt proof diff. There is only one other RB6.6 at the track and he is running the 3-gear lay-down with shocks on the back of the arms. I was thinking the 4-gear would add more mechanical grip to the car so I should be good to go with shocks on the front of the arms.

Also, how many of you have built the car stock with no aluminum up-grades?

Run a 3 gear with 17.5. Or your going to feel slow compared to other 3 gear cars with 17.5. Traction won't be a huge issue with stock motor. If I were you I'd run a 3 gear lay down with a ball diff and start from there on set up. The rb6 generates good rear grip in lay down configuration. I'd say from what I've heard I'd run shocks the the rear of the tower. Good luck and ask any questions u want. We are all glad to help.
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Old 12-31-2016, 11:00 AM   #14038
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Originally Posted by Cfconcrete View Post
If your using a clay compound tire or slicks, I would think a 3 gear laydown would be the way to go for stock racing. Shocks should be on the front.
Thank you. Do you think the gear diff will be good to go. I really don't want to mess with the Ball but if it is the better option I will use it.
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Old 12-31-2016, 02:32 PM   #14039
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YANMAN View Post
Thank you. Do you think the gear diff will be good to go. I really don't want to mess with the Ball but if it is the better option I will use it.
3gear laydown with Ball diff is way to go; Ball Diff definitely the best option for your surface.
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Old 12-31-2016, 02:44 PM   #14040
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Default RB6 shock mounting

I'm reading some people mounting their shock so on the front anyone have a picture of that?
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