Freeski

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys, it's Jeff. I think that ball studs are the only area that should be addressed. Losi has the same 4.8mm size and will fit and of course lunsford is another option if you want to save a little weight. After breaking several ball studs in minor crashes, Kevin went through the entire car and found other bent ball studs so I think that is one of the few weak areas that needs attention.

The aluminum front arm mount KYOUMW723 is another option that is popular upgrade. If your building the car for Hot Rod, the brass c block should be on your list. Everything else can be added later if you still want to spend.

Besides these few items, the car will work great. I just wanted to build a super car since I haven't raced 2wd in a while, but it hasn't been cheap. I'll get some pics posted.

JAE

iTrader: (30)

BTW - you can buy a used rb6 is good condition and upgrade the rb6.6 chassis and 3 gear box to rb6.6 for about $125

Phillip F

iTrader: (43)

and that's the only difference? All the parts are the same?

Freeski

iTrader: (3)

If you want, you could even use the Rb6 chassis and drill/countersink the holes for the 6.6 transmissions. There is also a little dremeling to do for sideways battery config. Buying the 6.6 chassis might just be easier.

Other than that, the parts are the same.

Forgot to mention before, but the steering rack should be switched to schelle or exotek so you eliminate the slop and use bearings as opposed to bushings. The schelle offers more ackerman adjustments which the exotek rack doesn't offer.

JAE

iTrader: (30)

for the stand up. dont have a list. May be a little more now as i can only find the chassis for $110 bucks now. Had some previous deals for $80. Would be $10 side guards, $10 3 gear standup transmission, $5 motor plate, $ 8 idler gear. May get a better deal at the track or if they dont have it the cash back tower deal for $350.

JAE

iTrader: (30)

Anyone know what shims, if any, will get the Ackerman back to stock with the Schelle steering rack? If you add shims to the steering rack, given the schelle rack already acts as a reverse kyosho, does that add or take away steering? Responding to this old comment as I can't seem to find the answer buried in the thread. Many thx

13Maschine

iTrader: (1)

Don't Trust the King! He Drives a Losi now :P, hahahaha.

Great answer Kevin.

@JAE: add 1mm shim to Schelle Rack for stock arrow forward ackerman configuration. As Kevin said, without the shim, the Schelle rack is the same as reverse arrow stock rack. Here's the Schelle Manual:

LAGuy

iTrader: (5)

The stock position (sharper steering tie rod angle/less ackerman), smoothens out the buggy's steering.
The -1mm rear position (straighter steering tie rod angle/more ackerman), quickens the buggy's initial steering response.

Less ackerman is suited for more wide open flowing layouts.
More ackerman is suited for more tight technical layouts.

JAE

iTrader: (30)

Practically speaking, I crash much less with my rb6 with the schelle rack on the optional outer hole. Just looking for a little more turn in and low speed steering. Mid speed chicanes seem to be just as aggressive as stock but low speed pushes a little bit. However, much easier to drive. Hoping the combination of adding a shim but using the outer hole may do the trick. My opinion between the racks currently is as LA guy noted... smaller track love the kit rack. Larger track much easier to drive with the schelle rack

kdub

Yes, add 1mm or 2mm to space the ballstud forward and that will give more steering in tight turns when using the outside hole on the rack.

BK24

iTrader: (10)

Does anyone know if RB6.6 rear wheels and TLR 22 3.0 rear wheels are interchangeable, same offset, etc...?

Thanks

rider313

iTrader: (94)

yes the same offset, but the TLR wheels have a thicker clamping area then the K car. So you will need longer threaded axles.

BK24

iTrader: (10)

Thanks Rider.

New axles doesn't sound terribly convenient - but maybe it's not as bad as it sounds?

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

I use flanged nuts, similar to these. With these there is no need to use a longer threaded axle.

randywhite30

I've tried a number of things to improve traction including
Reducing shock oil from 30 to 27.5
Making my rear links longer
Moving out the shock on the rear shock tower
And using the same tires as the guys that are going fast at my home track
I've had a few people tell me to switch from a gear diff to a ball diff

Anyone else agree that a ball diff for some reason give bear rear traction?

The changes I've made to this point have made things better but still looking to know if a ball diff really makes traction better over a gear diff