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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-21-2016, 11:41 AM   #14011
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Wow. Did Kevin buy all these too? Jeff K. Told me he spent almost $1500 with kit for his to make it race worthy for HRH. Im actually choosing between this or the B6D. As you know I race the B6 and love it more than the xb2 .
Hey guys, it's Jeff. I think that ball studs are the only area that should be addressed. Losi has the same 4.8mm size and will fit and of course lunsford is another option if you want to save a little weight. After breaking several ball studs in minor crashes, Kevin went through the entire car and found other bent ball studs so I think that is one of the few weak areas that needs attention.

The aluminum front arm mount KYOUMW723 is another option that is popular upgrade. If your building the car for Hot Rod, the brass c block should be on your list. Everything else can be added later if you still want to spend.

Besides these few items, the car will work great. I just wanted to build a super car since I haven't raced 2wd in a while, but it hasn't been cheap. I'll get some pics posted.
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Old 12-21-2016, 11:45 AM   #14012
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BTW - you can buy a used rb6 is good condition and upgrade the rb6.6 chassis and 3 gear box to rb6.6 for about $125
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Old 12-21-2016, 01:14 PM   #14013
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BTW - you can buy a used rb6 is good condition and upgrade the rb6.6 chassis and 3 gear box to rb6.6 for about $125
and that's the only difference? All the parts are the same?
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Old 12-21-2016, 01:34 PM   #14014
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and that's the only difference? All the parts are the same?
If you want, you could even use the Rb6 chassis and drill/countersink the holes for the 6.6 transmissions. There is also a little dremeling to do for sideways battery config. Buying the 6.6 chassis might just be easier.

Other than that, the parts are the same.

Forgot to mention before, but the steering rack should be switched to schelle or exotek so you eliminate the slop and use bearings as opposed to bushings. The schelle offers more ackerman adjustments which the exotek rack doesn't offer.
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Old 12-21-2016, 02:12 PM   #14015
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for the stand up. dont have a list. May be a little more now as i can only find the chassis for $110 bucks now. Had some previous deals for $80. Would be $10 side guards, $10 3 gear standup transmission, $5 motor plate, $ 8 idler gear. May get a better deal at the track or if they dont have it the cash back tower deal for $350.
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Old 12-26-2016, 12:00 AM   #14016
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Anyone know what shims, if any, will get the Ackerman back to stock with the Schelle steering rack? If you add shims to the steering rack, given the schelle rack already acts as a reverse kyosho, does that add or take away steering? Responding to this old comment as I can't seem to find the answer buried in the thread. Many thx


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The Schelle rack is made with the reverse built in. So a reversed Kyosho rack is the same as the Schelle rack with no shims.
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Old 12-26-2016, 10:39 AM   #14017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Anyone know what shims, if any, will get the Ackerman back to stock with the Schelle steering rack? If you add shims to the steering rack, given the schelle rack already acts as a reverse kyosho, does that add or take away steering? Responding to this old comment as I can't seem to find the answer buried in the thread. Many thx
Don't Trust the King! He Drives a Losi now :P, hahahaha.

Great answer Kevin.

@JAE: add 1mm shim to Schelle Rack for stock arrow forward ackerman configuration. As Kevin said, without the shim, the Schelle rack is the same as reverse arrow stock rack. Here's the Schelle Manual:
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-img_1347.jpg  
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Old 12-26-2016, 11:16 AM   #14018
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The stock position (sharper steering tie rod angle/less ackerman), smoothens out the buggy's steering.
The -1mm rear position (straighter steering tie rod angle/more ackerman), quickens the buggy's initial steering response.

Less ackerman is suited for more wide open flowing layouts.
More ackerman is suited for more tight technical layouts.
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Old 12-26-2016, 11:42 AM   #14019
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Practically speaking, I crash much less with my rb6 with the schelle rack on the optional outer hole. Just looking for a little more turn in and low speed steering. Mid speed chicanes seem to be just as aggressive as stock but low speed pushes a little bit. However, much easier to drive. Hoping the combination of adding a shim but using the outer hole may do the trick. My opinion between the racks currently is as LA guy noted... smaller track love the kit rack. Larger track much easier to drive with the schelle rack

Quote:
Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
Don't Trust the King! He Drives a Losi now :P, hahahaha.

Great answer Kevin.

@JAE: add 1mm shim to Schelle Rack for stock arrow forward ackerman configuration. As Kevin said, without the shim, the Schelle rack is the same as reverse arrow stock rack. Here's the Schelle Manual:
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Old 12-27-2016, 10:26 AM   #14020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Practically speaking, I crash much less with my rb6 with the schelle rack on the optional outer hole. Just looking for a little more turn in and low speed steering. Mid speed chicanes seem to be just as aggressive as stock but low speed pushes a little bit. However, much easier to drive. Hoping the combination of adding a shim but using the outer hole may do the trick. My opinion between the racks currently is as LA guy noted... smaller track love the kit rack. Larger track much easier to drive with the schelle rack
Yes, add 1mm or 2mm to space the ballstud forward and that will give more steering in tight turns when using the outside hole on the rack.
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Old 12-28-2016, 07:38 AM   #14021
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Does anyone know if RB6.6 rear wheels and TLR 22 3.0 rear wheels are interchangeable, same offset, etc...?

Thanks
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Old 12-28-2016, 07:47 AM   #14022
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yes the same offset, but the TLR wheels have a thicker clamping area then the K car. So you will need longer threaded axles.
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Old 12-28-2016, 08:02 AM   #14023
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Thanks Rider.

New axles doesn't sound terribly convenient - but maybe it's not as bad as it sounds?


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yes the same offset, but the TLR wheels have a thicker clamping area then the K car. So you will need longer threaded axles.
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Old 12-28-2016, 08:50 AM   #14024
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I use flanged nuts, similar to these. With these there is no need to use a longer threaded axle.
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Old 12-28-2016, 09:44 PM   #14025
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Default Rb6 Traction

I've tried a number of things to improve traction including
Reducing shock oil from 30 to 27.5
Making my rear links longer
Moving out the shock on the rear shock tower
And using the same tires as the guys that are going fast at my home track
I've had a few people tell me to switch from a gear diff to a ball diff

Anyone else agree that a ball diff for some reason give bear rear traction?

The changes I've made to this point have made things better but still looking to know if a ball diff really makes traction better over a gear diff
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