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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-19-2016, 10:35 PM   #13996
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Was there any impact on traction switching from the 1.6 2 hole to the 1.4 3 hole? Thx!!
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I am running a medium bite bumpy track and I am running the VRP 1.4x3 front and rear. The car gets through the bumps and lands amazing. I am running pretty much the exact setup Tebo ran at Speed RC other then I have a 3 gear LD right now experimenting but the 4 gear LD provides a lot better traction so if the track keeps going to the slicker side like it has been in the mains I will be going back to the 4 gear LD. I am running a little different spring setup and a little more droop just because of the bumpier track. I am also running my battery all the way against the brace with a 20g brass weight underneath.

Front I have VRP 1.4x3, 450, White Spring, and 20.8mm Shock Length
Rear is VRP 1.4x3, 375, Gold Spring, and 27.5mm Shock Length
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Old 12-19-2016, 11:10 PM   #13997
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Was there any impact on traction switching from the 1.6 2 hole to the 1.4 3 hole? Thx!!
I feel like the 1.4x3 hole pistons keep the car in the track better because they soak up a little more of the bumps and don't pack as quick as the 1.6x2 pistons. Plus our local track doesn't have any really big 1/8 jumps so my car isn't bottoming out with the 1.4x3's. We run another track that has bigger jumps and I will normally switch to the 1.6x2 rears to keep the car from bottoming out but I will also change shock fluids to try and keep the traction similar. I almost always run the 1.4x3 in the front because I feel like it keeps the car mellow and not really wanting to wonder. Plus with the laydown this car feels like I can always get more steering if I need it.

So to answer your question I did feel like the traction was a little better with them.
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Old 12-20-2016, 12:19 AM   #13998
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I'll try them on the front too then. Thx for that
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Originally Posted by Michael#81 View Post
I feel like the 1.4x3 hole pistons keep the car in the track better because they soak up a little more of the bumps and don't pack as quick as the 1.6x2 pistons. Plus our local track doesn't have any really big 1/8 jumps so my car isn't bottoming out with the 1.4x3's. We run another track that has bigger jumps and I will normally switch to the 1.6x2 rears to keep the car from bottoming out but I will also change shock fluids to try and keep the traction similar. I almost always run the 1.4x3 in the front because I feel like it keeps the car mellow and not really wanting to wonder. Plus with the laydown this car feels like I can always get more steering if I need it.

So to answer your question I did feel like the traction was a little better with them.
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Old 12-20-2016, 01:37 PM   #13999
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How are the carbon JTP shock towers? Anyone have feedback you can share?
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Old 12-20-2016, 01:48 PM   #14000
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How are the carbon JTP shock towers? Anyone have feedback you can share?
Been running them for about a year now. I really like them a lot. It seems like the car steers better and isn't as effected by bumps when steering. You have to run the long shock bottoms and shock length seems to be a big deal and pretty sensitive. The rear has the same geometry but it sits the wing up a little higher which I think gives the rear end a little more grip.
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Old 12-20-2016, 02:14 PM   #14001
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You have to run the long links in the front? I run mine on the outer hole of the tower as it feels more locked in . Is this going to be problematic with the Tebo tower?
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Originally Posted by Michael#81 View Post
Been running them for about a year now. I really like them a lot. It seems like the car steers better and isn't as effected by bumps when steering. You have to run the long links and shock length seems to be a big deal and pretty sensitive. The rear has the same geometry but it sits the wing up a little higher which I think gives the rear end a little more grip.
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Old 12-20-2016, 03:59 PM   #14002
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I think he meant the shock bottoms. The tower is about 2mm taller than stock, so a setup that normally runs the medium shock bottom should run the long bottom with the JTP tower

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Originally Posted by JAE View Post
You have to run the long links in the front? I run mine on the outer hole of the tower as it feels more locked in . Is this going to be problematic with the Tebo tower?
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Old 12-20-2016, 05:19 PM   #14003
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I think he meant the shock bottoms. The tower is about 2mm taller than stock, so a setup that normally runs the medium shock bottom should run the long bottom with the JTP tower
dmcguire is correct. I meant the long shock bottoms. KYOLA43
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Old 12-21-2016, 12:12 AM   #14004
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Anyone notice the kyosho shocks with similar pistons and oil as other buggies feel extremely hard? Today I went down to 25 weight rear to get to a shock that felt about the same as my b6 with 30 weight oil with the same pistons (vrp). Seems especially so in the rear. Felt the same with the kit pistons too. Wondering if it's the design. Just wondering as I rarely seen it commented about. On another note I do feel the shocks are far superior to my other buggies once I got the weight situated.
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Old 12-21-2016, 01:41 AM   #14005
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I'm thinking of getting the RB6.6 for dirt track (Hot Rod Hobbies) ...last time I raced a Kyosho was the MP7.5 buggy which was amazing. Anyways, I heard you need to buy aluminum parts to make this durable for racing. Is that true? If so, which parts should one get ? And does the buggy take AE buggy wheels?
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Old 12-21-2016, 02:35 AM   #14006
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Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
I'm thinking of getting the RB6.6 for dirt track (Hot Rod Hobbies) ...last time I raced a Kyosho was the MP7.5 buggy which was amazing. Anyways, I heard you need to buy aluminum parts to make this durable for racing. Is that true? If so, which parts should one get ? And does the buggy take AE buggy wheels?
UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).

Yes AE rear. fronts work but bind around hex. A little dremel work and prob solved.
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Old 12-21-2016, 04:01 AM   #14007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
I'm thinking of getting the RB6.6 for dirt track (Hot Rod Hobbies) ...last time I raced a Kyosho was the MP7.5 buggy which was amazing. Anyways, I heard you need to buy aluminum parts to make this durable for racing. Is that true? If so, which parts should one get ? And does the buggy take AE buggy wheels?
NEED? Nothing. They're quite durable out of the box!

The front arm block will lose shape and warp after some time and a few good wrecks so the aluminum one is nice peace of mind.
The rear suspension holders are nice to have because of the adjustable inserts that it comes with but, in a HARD wreck, something is going to break. A wreck that would normally break a plastic hub or plastic arm holder will now break the rear arm because everything else is aluminum. It's a trade off. The aluminum stuff is nice because it doesn't wear out but it's not NEEDED.
My kid has been running all the stock plastic steering stuff for a long time and he's hard on equipment. I got all the aluminum stuff to replace it when it gets sloppy but it's still tight.
Put it together and run it!
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Old 12-21-2016, 08:37 AM   #14008
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Just the aluminum or brass hangers and the steering rack.inky the big ive broken with both mine is the ball stud on the spindle. Switched to long ball studs and have no issues. I've also had a few ballstuds break on some plastic parts such as he rear suspension holder. Saw some people getting Lunsford ballstuds for this. The other day Kevin just got some cheap losi ones. Heard hose were pretty indestructible. I don't think this buggy is fragile at all. I break less on this than the b6. Plastics are on par with X-ray. More like their hard parts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillip F View Post
I'm thinking of getting the RB6.6 for dirt track (Hot Rod Hobbies) ...last time I raced a Kyosho was the MP7.5 buggy which was amazing. Anyways, I heard you need to buy aluminum parts to make this durable for racing. Is that true? If so, which parts should one get ? And does the buggy take AE buggy wheels?
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Old 12-21-2016, 09:21 AM   #14009
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Originally Posted by tobamiester View Post
UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).

Yes AE rear. fronts work but bind around hex. A little dremel work and prob solved.
Wow. Did Kevin buy all these too? Jeff K. Told me he spent almost $1500 with kit for his to make it race worthy for HRH. Im actually choosing between this or the B6D. As you know I race the B6 and love it more than the xb2 .
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Old 12-21-2016, 10:37 AM   #14010
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apologies for the iphone typos above. You could make a $1,500 b6 too. it's unnecessary. The only thing the b6 comes with that the rb6 does not is are the aluminum hangers. And, you will likely want the brass one anyhow, so really the difference is one hanger.

Given you are coming from Xray, you will like the adjustablity of the hangers, so just get those 2 hangers and you're good to go. Upgrade just as you would with the b6 as your budget permits. I've bought the standup Rb6.6 as an outdoor buggy to run with holeshots. Suprisingly, it drives very similar to a laydown with the same grip as a b5m. On medium/high grip tracks it has been just as fast as my laydown rb6.6. The steering is far more aggressive in standup form than the b6. I did not expect to drive the standup on med/high grip tracks and am very pleasantly surprised with the combo of grip, steering, and corner speed
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