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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-17-2016, 02:40 PM   #13981
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Default RB6.6 chassis

Does anyone know if the RB6.6 is a bolt on to the RB6 chassis? I want to get the lay down setup but I don't want to buy the whole car.
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Old 12-17-2016, 02:40 PM   #13982
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
The kit comes with all the bulkheads. I started with laydown and shocks on the rear then moved them to the front. I like them on the front way more. Much tighter package. On our smaller 1/10th scale medium bite tracks it just snaps through the 180 turns. The biggest difference to me is that it pulls the wing in closer to the center of mass. Speaking of wings, they're sooo much easier to cut out with shocks on the front.
Ditto. started with shocks on rear with laydown, but like it with shocks on front of arms.
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Old 12-17-2016, 02:41 PM   #13983
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Originally Posted by randywhite30 View Post
Does anyone know if the RB6.6 is a bolt on to the RB6 chassis? I want to get the lay down setup but I don't want to buy the whole car.
You need to drill 2 holes to put the laydown gearbox on a RB6 chassis, thats it, no biggy.
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Old 12-17-2016, 03:22 PM   #13984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randywhite30 View Post
Does anyone know if the RB6.6 is a bolt on to the RB6 chassis? I want to get the lay down setup but I don't want to buy the whole car.
It can be done - here is what you'll need to do:

1.) Reference Wiki for parts needed (rear bulkhead, gear box, idler gear, gear cover, motor plate) - about $60 in parts.

2.) need to drill two holes for bottom of waterfall bracket as it will push forward quite a bit (countersink bottom of chassis as well for those holes).

3.) Depending on if you run your battery sideways, you'll have to trim some of the sideguards for proper fitment of the battery.

I hope that helps. If you pull it off, send some pictures to share with the thread.

Best of luck.
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Old 12-17-2016, 07:22 PM   #13985
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I'd like to know as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by draboyd19 View Post
Question for you guys.

I've got a RB6 in 3 Gear stand up setup. I've lost the small little black circle cap that covers the top shaft bearing on the side opposite the slipper and spur gear side.

Rather than spending $10 for the whole 3 gear kit and getting all the extra parts again, any solutions as to how to close that up? It appears its just a cap to keep dust dirt from reaching the exposed bearing and top shaft end. I believe it's 10mm wide so not sure if that helps locate any replacement options.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-17-2016, 09:02 PM   #13986
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skrichter View Post
Sounds like no one really understands what the true antisquat is with the RB6/6.6. If anyone does, please let us know!
Here you go. Simple math and some measurements.

Quote:
Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post

#1.
The manual calls for 1mm worth of shim either on top of or below the rear hinge pin holder, OR, 0.5mm in each spot.
This keeps the distance from the chassis to the transmission mount at the stack up dimension it was designed to have.

My measurements are as follow.
No shim under the rear hinge pin mount = 2.225 degrees
0.5mm under = 1.484 degrees
1mm under = 0.742 degrees

Here's my math.
Any input is welcome.
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Old 12-17-2016, 09:50 PM   #13987
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On one of tebos setups. It say 15 grams under tranny. Can anyone eloberate where exactly or was he talking brass c mount. But that's 25 grams I thought
With laydown tranny is there a little space between the chassis the case to toss some weight in there ??
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Old 12-18-2016, 12:42 AM   #13988
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Originally Posted by JAE View Post
I'd like to know as well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by draboyd19 View Post
Question for you guys.

I've got a RB6 in 3 Gear stand up setup. I've lost the small little black circle cap that covers the top shaft bearing on the side opposite the slipper and spur gear side.

Rather than spending $10 for the whole 3 gear kit and getting all the extra parts again, any solutions as to how to close that up? It appears its just a cap to keep dust dirt from reaching the exposed bearing and top shaft end. I believe it's 10mm wide so not sure if that helps locate any replacement options.

Thanks in advance.
Take an old lexan wing, and cut out a small circle that will fit in the hole, slide that piece of lexan in the hole, then grab some flex seal from walmart or something and fill the hole until it's flush. This will seal it off, and you can still pop it out if you need to.
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Old 12-18-2016, 01:07 AM   #13989
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Originally Posted by tobamiester View Post
Absolutely!
so is 4 gear laydown an option? or can i make it with what comes in the kit? tia
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Old 12-18-2016, 02:57 AM   #13990
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so is 4 gear laydown an option? or can i make it with what comes in the kit? tia
It's an option, and everything you need comes in the kit.
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Old 12-19-2016, 02:24 AM   #13991
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You have any recent setups Jason Dias? I've seen your buggy in action looks fantastic
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It's an option, and everything you need comes in the kit.
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Old 12-19-2016, 06:39 PM   #13992
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I changed my pistons as i had a set of VRP Pistons laying around. However, only had 1.6 2 hole fronts and 1.4 3 hole rears... after installation noticed some older setups with the reverse and the 1.4 3 hole on the front. In any event, any recommendation on keeping the 1.4 3 hole on rear or should I put in another setup? My thoughts were the 1.4 3 hole rear would behave somewhat similar as a 1.7 2 hole rear since it has more similar surface area
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Old 12-19-2016, 09:27 PM   #13993
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Just picked up a 6.6 and will be running 17.5. Should I build it 3 or 4 gear? I am for sure building it with the lay down config. Just not sure what gear transmission I should run.
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Old 12-19-2016, 10:21 PM   #13994
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Originally Posted by JAE View Post
I changed my pistons as i had a set of VRP Pistons laying around. However, only had 1.6 2 hole fronts and 1.4 3 hole rears... after installation noticed some older setups with the reverse and the 1.4 3 hole on the front. In any event, any recommendation on keeping the 1.4 3 hole on rear or should I put in another setup? My thoughts were the 1.4 3 hole rear would behave somewhat similar as a 1.7 2 hole rear since it has more similar surface area
I am running a medium bite bumpy track and I am running the VRP 1.4x3 front and rear. The car gets through the bumps and lands amazing. I am running pretty much the exact setup Tebo ran at Speed RC other then I have a 3 gear LD right now experimenting but the 4 gear LD provides a lot better traction so if the track keeps going to the slicker side like it has been in the mains I will be going back to the 4 gear LD. I am running a little different spring setup and a little more droop just because of the bumpier track. I am also running my battery all the way against the brace with a 20g brass weight underneath.

Front I have VRP 1.4x3, 450, White Spring, and 20.8mm Shock Length
Rear is VRP 1.4x3, 375, Gold Spring, and 27.5mm Shock Length
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Old 12-19-2016, 10:24 PM   #13995
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Just picked up a 6.6 and will be running 17.5. Should I build it 3 or 4 gear? I am for sure building it with the lay down config. Just not sure what gear transmission I should run.
3 gear laydown with the shocks on the front of the arms. The less rotating mass and drag will help the 17.5 motor not heat up as much. The 3 gear generates a pretty good amount of grip. The only way I would switch to 4 gear is if the track is really low bite.
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