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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-14-2016, 10:41 AM   #13966
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3rd and last part of building rb6.6 with lots of pictures and an additional battery position using hop up part (UMW728)

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Old 12-14-2016, 08:05 PM   #13967
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skrichter View Post
Here is the response I received from Tebo on Instagram:

On the RB6 C block, no shim is used. The d block MUST use shims. Thin on bumper, thin under bulkhead is 2 degree. Nothing on bumper and thick under bulkhead is 1 degree. Thick on bumper and nothing under the bulkhead is 3 degree. You MUST use the total amount of 1 thick shim to have your transmission mounted properly. I don't know exact off my head the shims for ZX6. I think nothing under c and nothing under d is 2 degree.
I'm not sure in regards to the C block vs D block statement. The Alum suspension blocks come with pills; A,B,C,D blocks which are ONLY used to adjust the toe in. It has zero effect on Anti-Squat. Anti-Squat is adjusted by shims as described. Are you using the plastic suspension blocks?
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Old 12-15-2016, 06:44 AM   #13968
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
I'm not sure in regards to the C block vs D block statement. The Alum suspension blocks come with pills; A,B,C,D blocks which are ONLY used to adjust the toe in. It has zero effect on Anti-Squat. Anti-Squat is adjusted by shims as described. Are you using the plastic suspension blocks?

Correct - we were discussing antisquat. I understand toe (and different rear pivot widths) is achieved with the pills -- I am using the brass C block for laydown and the aluminum D block. I like to reference the actual blocks as C or D blocks vs. calling them RF and RR. For example a 4wd buggy has 4 blocks in total - A,B,C,D. I know this can be confusing a little bit since KYO uses pills with 'letters'. But I feel its easier to describe which block I am referring to when discussing setups. I think Ryan Lutz had a web blog about this once, where he liked the A/B/C/D blocks as well. Anyway....

However nowhere in the manual (or online) does it state what the stock anti-squat is for the RB6/6.6. However, according to Tebo, you MUST use at least 1mm of total shims on the D block (in between the rear bumper and camber block) in order for the tranny to fit correctly. In other words, you need to use two 0.5mm shims (in any fashion), or a 1mm shim (either below/above the bumper or rear camber block). Tebo mentioned you can achieve 1deg, 2deg, and 3deg -- depending on where you place the shims.

However, Joe Pillars recently mentioned the stock antisquat should be 2.5deg. Sounds like no one really understands what the true antisquat is with the RB6/6.6. If anyone does, please let us know!
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Old 12-15-2016, 07:40 AM   #13969
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If I was to run a gear diff in my Rb6.6 laydown. What oil should I start with. ???
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Old 12-15-2016, 09:33 AM   #13970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rcforlife13 View Post
If I was to run a gear diff in my Rb6.6 laydown. What oil should I start with. ???
Where will you be running the car, dirt, astro, carpet and what kind of tires will you be using, slicks, foam, treaded?
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Old 12-15-2016, 09:36 AM   #13971
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Clay dirt Electrons tires
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Old 12-15-2016, 08:35 PM   #13972
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3k
Too little steering in corner, try 1k.
Too much steering/rotation, try 5k.
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Old 12-17-2016, 07:19 AM   #13973
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I have a question. In my Rb6.6 in laydown config. Can u put 4 gears in there not 3 as the kit manual says. ??
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Old 12-17-2016, 07:35 AM   #13974
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rcforlife13 View Post
I have a question. In my Rb6.6 in laydown config. Can u put 4 gears in there not 3 as the kit manual says. ??
Absolutely!
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Old 12-17-2016, 08:18 AM   #13975
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Should I when the track isn't carpet or super high grip
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Old 12-17-2016, 08:32 AM   #13976
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I know some of our local fast guys (Tebo being one), are running the 4 gear laydown on med to high grip.
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Old 12-17-2016, 09:33 AM   #13977
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That's what I saw. With that being said. Using everything the Rb6.6 kit came with. Where should I be running the shocks. I see them in the rear. I don't have the old Rb6 rear bulkhead. I wanna stick with what the kit came with but mount the shocks in the rear.
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Old 12-17-2016, 10:56 AM   #13978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rcforlife13 View Post
That's what I saw. With that being said. Using everything the Rb6.6 kit came with. Where should I be running the shocks. I see them in the rear. I don't have the old Rb6 rear bulkhead. I wanna stick with what the kit came with but mount the shocks in the rear.
The kit comes with all the bulkheads. I started with laydown and shocks on the rear then moved them to the front. I like them on the front way more. Much tighter package. On our smaller 1/10th scale medium bite tracks it just snaps through the 180 turns. The biggest difference to me is that it pulls the wing in closer to the center of mass. Speaking of wings, they're sooo much easier to cut out with shocks on the front.
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Old 12-17-2016, 11:11 AM   #13979
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Question for you guys.

I've got a RB6 in 3 Gear stand up setup. I've lost the small little black circle cap that covers the top shaft bearing on the side opposite the slipper and spur gear side.

Rather than spending $10 for the whole 3 gear kit and getting all the extra parts again, any solutions as to how to close that up? It appears its just a cap to keep dust dirt from reaching the exposed bearing and top shaft end. I believe it's 10mm wide so not sure if that helps locate any replacement options.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-17-2016, 11:13 AM   #13980
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Think I lost mine on the first day. I don't run outdoors so I haven't worried about it.
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