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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-12-2016, 10:46 AM   #13951
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Another view of the wing -- from this weekend at JC race @Speed RC
Muchmore Fashion Wing.

http://www.muchmoreracing.net/produc....php?pidx=1106
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Old 12-12-2016, 09:27 PM   #13952
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Check your motor timing is not backwards. Still doesn't work get a new $90 fantom or reedy. If your esc doesn't have blinkyvget a $50 just-stock. Never seen anyone race a castle so don't know it runs blinky
The Mamba Max Pro does have a blinky mode. I ended up selling it and get an RSX tho. Also sold the speed passion and bought a used tuned tekin gen3 17.5 and HOLY CRAP THIS THING IS FAST!
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Old 12-13-2016, 12:08 AM   #13953
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tie rod/turnbuckle placement: how's everyone running their links on the 6.6 or rb6 for that matter? Please describe experience and plus/minus. It gets tedious trying out a ton of combos. For me, I drive the Kit setup which has the shorter front link positioned on the outer hole on the front shock tower. I feel the steering was much more precise and controlled with the shorter link. The middle hole for me felt like the buggy had a combo of a lot of roll with a lot of steering which felt erratic. Felt like I was waiting for the buggy to react and when it rolled it was abrupt and erratic...if that makes sense. I also see a lot of older setups like tebo's where the rear link is long and on the outside of the hub on the rear wheel hub carrier. Don't see that frequently with other buggies. This buggy is great but has such aggressive steering I find there are a lot of changes on other buggies don't translate on this buggy. For example I would think the short links up front would be too aggressive and hard to control. Counter-intuitively just the opposite
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Old 12-13-2016, 08:37 AM   #13954
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add caster to the front blocks or run 30 degree block in front to smooth out steering. Try steering drag link backwards to help with steering.
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Old 12-13-2016, 01:19 PM   #13955
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Couldn't find this answer in this forum --

What is the stock anti squat -- before using any shims on the C or D blocks? I'm assuming its 2 degrees, but I couldn't find any documentation in the manual or the web to support it.

I understand 0.5mm shim = approx .75 deg of squat. Assuming there is 2 deg of squat built into the rear C/D blocks, I would be at approx. 1.25deg of antisquat if I placed a 0.5mm shim on the rear D block.

Same goes for the ZX6 -- if anyone knows the stock antisquat?

If anyone knows, please let us know! Thx!
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Old 12-13-2016, 08:46 PM   #13956
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Originally Posted by JAE View Post
tie rod/turnbuckle placement: how's everyone running their links on the 6.6 or rb6 for that matter? Please describe experience and plus/minus. It gets tedious trying out a ton of combos. For me, I drive the Kit setup which has the shorter front link positioned on the outer hole on the front shock tower. I feel the steering was much more precise and controlled with the shorter link. The middle hole for me felt like the buggy had a combo of a lot of roll with a lot of steering which felt erratic. Felt like I was waiting for the buggy to react and when it rolled it was abrupt and erratic...if that makes sense. I also see a lot of older setups like tebo's where the rear link is long and on the outside of the hub on the rear wheel hub carrier. Don't see that frequently with other buggies. This buggy is great but has such aggressive steering I find there are a lot of changes on other buggies don't translate on this buggy. For example I would think the short links up front would be too aggressive and hard to control. Counter-intuitively just the opposite

If you haven't tried it, try reversing the steering rack so the arrow is pointing to the back of the car. This gave my car just the right amount of steering.
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Old 12-13-2016, 10:16 PM   #13957
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Can this be done with an exotek or schelle aluminum steering rack?also, is this taking away throw or changing Ackerman? Thx!!
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If you haven't tried it, try reversing the steering rack so the arrow is pointing to the back of the car. This gave my car just the right amount of steering.
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Old 12-13-2016, 10:26 PM   #13958
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Pretty sure it cant be done with the exotek rack. Have you tried adding shims under the steering ball (steering rack) and /or shims under the front camber link (tower) and take out the ones from the hub end? Theoretically should smooth out steering without touching the link length. I race on carpet and do find the rb6.6 aggressive in steer
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Old 12-13-2016, 10:50 PM   #13959
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I know the newest RB6.6 out is the (34302B) that comes with a lot of new things but was interested in the older RB6.... I was looking at the RB6 2015 model(KYO34301B) and I believe an older version RB6(30068B) but was struggling to find the difference between these two kits? Does anyone know? Did any of these kits come with an aluminum steering rack or are they all plastic? Thank you in advance.
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Old 12-14-2016, 05:16 AM   #13960
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They all come with plastic steering racks. Even the 6.6.
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Old 12-14-2016, 07:28 AM   #13961
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Gotcha on the rack, is the RB6 2015 model(KYO34301B)the last updated kit before the rb6.6 ?

Thanks,
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Old 12-14-2016, 07:38 AM   #13962
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Gotcha on the rack, is the RB6 2015 model(KYO34301B)the last updated kit before the rb6.6 ?

Thanks,
Yes, but the 6.6 is worth it.
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Old 12-14-2016, 08:31 AM   #13963
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Can this be done with an exotek or schelle aluminum steering rack?also, is this taking away throw or changing Ackerman? Thx!!
The Schelle steering rack moves the ball studs back 1mm, which would be the equivalent of the reversed stock rack position. Given this, I run 1mm spacers on mine for the stock setting, and then remove them to calm in down a bit.

It was a new track build at OCRC on Monday so it was a bit slick, and in this condition I removed the spacers.
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Old 12-14-2016, 08:52 AM   #13964
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
tie rod/turnbuckle placement: how's everyone running their links on the 6.6 or rb6 for that matter? Please describe experience and plus/minus. It gets tedious trying out a ton of combos. For me, I drive the Kit setup which has the shorter front link positioned on the outer hole on the front shock tower. I feel the steering was much more precise and controlled with the shorter link. The middle hole for me felt like the buggy had a combo of a lot of roll with a lot of steering which felt erratic. Felt like I was waiting for the buggy to react and when it rolled it was abrupt and erratic...if that makes sense. I also see a lot of older setups like tebo's where the rear link is long and on the outside of the hub on the rear wheel hub carrier. Don't see that frequently with other buggies. This buggy is great but has such aggressive steering I find there are a lot of changes on other buggies don't translate on this buggy. For example I would think the short links up front would be too aggressive and hard to control. Counter-intuitively just the opposite
I've copied this info from the FredSwain tune with camber links thread, which originally references an old RC car action article. As fred goes on to point out it's not a perfect answer but it is helpful to explain the general effect of camber link length.

In general, a short camber link increases camber gain (the amount of camber the tire experiences through suspension compression), and produce more vehicle rotation entering a turn and more traction coming out of the turn. As the vehicle’s weight transfers and the suspension compresses in a corner, the increased camber angle of the tire will increase lateral thrust generated by holding more camber in the heavily loaded outside tire. The tire will have less rubber on the road and more cornering capacity when you add camber gain.

The opposite is true for a longer camber link. Lengthen the camber link by moving to the outer hole on the hub or inner hole on the shock tower, and this will decrease camber gain, which can make the car feel “lazier” and less reactive, while giving the car a more stable feel. Longer camber links are sometimes used on high-traction tracks to prevent traction rolling.

Formula: Camber link --
Short camber link =
+ Camber gain /---\ =
More vehicle rotation entering turns // More traction out of turn.

Long camber link =
- Camber gain \---/ =
“Lazier” Feeling – More stability


@JAE: I would suggest playing with the spacers under the ball stud first before changing links as it's much less tedious. As grip increases I often move the front shock tower ball stud lower (removing spacers) Takes away some turn in, and makes it a little less responsive. Essentially less twitchy when grip is high (slicks)
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Old 12-14-2016, 09:31 AM   #13965
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Couldn't find this answer in this forum --

What is the stock anti squat -- before using any shims on the C or D blocks? I'm assuming its 2 degrees, but I couldn't find any documentation in the manual or the web to support it.

I understand 0.5mm shim = approx .75 deg of squat. Assuming there is 2 deg of squat built into the rear C/D blocks, I would be at approx. 1.25deg of antisquat if I placed a 0.5mm shim on the rear D block.

Same goes for the ZX6 -- if anyone knows the stock antisquat?

If anyone knows, please let us know! Thx!
Here is the response I received from Tebo on Instagram:

On the RB6 C block, no shim is used. The d block MUST use shims. Thin on bumper, thin under bulkhead is 2 degree. Nothing on bumper and thick under bulkhead is 1 degree. Thick on bumper and nothing under the bulkhead is 3 degree. You MUST use the total amount of 1 thick shim to have your transmission mounted properly. I don't know exact off my head the shims for ZX6. I think nothing under c and nothing under d is 2 degree.
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