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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 12-06-2016, 04:28 PM   #13936
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Ok, so I'm picking up an RB6 that is setup for stock dirt racing to add to the collection of Kyosho racing toys - MIP Aluminum Pucks, cut gear, lightweight goodies and Schelle Nova Slipper system. Plan is to run it as a stocker, but most of the surrounding tracks don't have that class on a weekly basis, just larger events. Most times it's just a modified open 2WD buggy class at the club level.

With that in mind, is a 17.5T motor still the ideal fit with this stocker buggy if paired with a orion r10 Pro if I wanted to try and run it more often at the weekly level?

Guess my question is related to how much, is too much, motor for a buggy with the MIP system and cut gears set-up from a possible breakage standpoint, and can the Nova Slipper system handle bigger boy motors?

Ideally, it's be great to swap out motors as needed to run this more often, but curious what feedback anyone has on the topic.

Thanks!
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Old 12-06-2016, 05:00 PM   #13937
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Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Timing on the motor only. For 17.5. May I ask why you are adjusting timing on the ESC? If you are racing a class that allows timing, I would just get a cheap mod motor 7.5t-10.5t and never worry about tuning/optimizing an expensive stock motor
Yeah I figured that out after the fact. It was stock but I had no idea we weren't supposed to adjust the timing in the esc. I was so slow without any timing at all that I could barely clear the jumps. Also It isnt an expensive stock motor lol. It cost me 45 bucks on ebay.
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Old 12-06-2016, 05:30 PM   #13938
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Check your motor timing is not backwards. Still doesn't work get a new $90 fantom or reedy. If your esc doesn't have blinkyvget a $50 just-stock. Never seen anyone race a castle so don't know it runs blinky

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Originally Posted by jcsfearless View Post
Yeah I figured that out after the fact. It was stock but I had no idea we weren't supposed to adjust the timing in the esc. I was so slow without any timing at all that I could barely clear the jumps. Also It isnt an expensive stock motor lol. It cost me 45 bucks on ebay.
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Old 12-06-2016, 08:05 PM   #13939
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Originally Posted by draboyd19 View Post
Ok, so I'm picking up an RB6 that is setup for stock dirt racing to add to the collection of Kyosho racing toys - MIP Aluminum Pucks, cut gear, lightweight goodies and Schelle Nova Slipper system. Plan is to run it as a stocker, but most of the surrounding tracks don't have that class on a weekly basis, just larger events. Most times it's just a modified open 2WD buggy class at the club level.

With that in mind, is a 17.5T motor still the ideal fit with this stocker buggy if paired with a orion r10 Pro if I wanted to try and run it more often at the weekly level?

Guess my question is related to how much, is too much, motor for a buggy with the MIP system and cut gears set-up from a possible breakage standpoint, and can the Nova Slipper system handle bigger boy motors?

Ideally, it's be great to swap out motors as needed to run this more often, but curious what feedback anyone has on the topic.

Thanks!
I think I can help you with this. I ran a 10.5 tekin on a kyosho scr-sp with MIP plastic 1st gen plastic style puck slipper for over a year. Besides wearing out the plastic pucks more often then my rb6 running 17.5 with plastic pucks, it held up just fine. Your rb6 will hold up to the r10 no prob with aluminum pucks. And that motor is not too much motor for a the rb6 buggy. But with any mod motor the faster speeds and higher torque will cause more wear and tear and the crashes are generally harder. Causing more broken parts. I have had my rb6 with 17.5 for over a year and i have only broken 1 front arm. That is the 1 and only broken part. And I hit a wall on a fast straight so there was saying good reason for the break.

On a side note. I did have a few detailed conversations with Matt, owner of MIP about running puck system with mod motor. He felt that as long as you didn't go lower than a 10 turn motor it would perform fine. Which for me it has.

Hope that helps.
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Old 12-07-2016, 07:48 AM   #13940
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I think I can help you with this. I ran a 10.5 tekin on a kyosho scr-sp with MIP plastic 1st gen plastic style puck slipper for over a year. Besides wearing out the plastic pucks more often then my rb6 running 17.5 with plastic pucks, it held up just fine. Your rb6 will hold up to the r10 no prob with aluminum pucks. And that motor is not too much motor for a the rb6 buggy. But with any mod motor the faster speeds and higher torque will cause more wear and tear and the crashes are generally harder. Causing more broken parts. I have had my rb6 with 17.5 for over a year and i have only broken 1 front arm. That is the 1 and only broken part. And I hit a wall on a fast straight so there was saying good reason for the break.

On a side note. I did have a few detailed conversations with Matt, owner of MIP about running puck system with mod motor. He felt that as long as you didn't go lower than a 10 turn motor it would perform fine. Which for me it has.

Hope that helps.
Exactly the type of response I was looking to get - thank you! Very helpful.
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Old 12-07-2016, 09:20 PM   #13941
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...

Last edited by metalry101; 12-07-2016 at 09:22 PM. Reason: wrong thread. stupid mobile site
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Old 12-10-2016, 09:57 AM   #13942
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How is the wear/slop of the Kyosho RB6/.6 cars? Associated used to be pretty bad, but the B6 is much improved. TLR is pretty poor IMO. Do Kyosho parts stay nice and tight over time?

I'm thinking of getting the RB6.6 as a complement/stand-up 3-gear to my laydown B6 for when the track is looser.
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Old 12-10-2016, 10:53 AM   #13943
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I have a 6.6 standup. Has the best cornerspeed and steering of any of the standups I've had (b6, xb2, b5m)great choice. Much less slop than associated including the b6. Very hard plastics
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Originally Posted by tsair View Post
How is the wear/slop of the Kyosho RB6/.6 cars? Associated used to be pretty bad, but the B6 is much improved. TLR is pretty poor IMO. Do Kyosho parts stay nice and tight over time?

I'm thinking of getting the RB6.6 as a complement/stand-up 3-gear to my laydown B6 for when the track is looser.
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Old 12-10-2016, 01:54 PM   #13944
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Old 12-11-2016, 07:23 PM   #13945
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Anyone have tips on making changes to the caster inserts? Broke a spindle and track only had exotek aluminum ones. They do not come with inserts. I cannot get my old 0 degree out of the broken spindle. So will be trying the 2 degree caster insert. Had questions on general caster settings anyhow. Anyone know how to get these out, have experience with exotek aluminum c hubs and just general tips/experiences with making changes at the c hub? Thx all


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Old 12-11-2016, 08:54 PM   #13946
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The inserts are tight but they can usually be forced out of the stock caster block. I put the caster block over something that has a hollow spot like the webbing of an A-Arm to push tap them out. The inserts arent all that tight going into the exotek caster block, but they have a small grub screw to secure them.
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Old 12-11-2016, 09:26 PM   #13947
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Exotek worthwhile? Thinking of just waiting for the carbon ones to be in stock. Wondering also how much weight this will add. Running stock this thing is a little porky but worth all the weight


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The inserts are tight but they can usually be forced out of the stock caster block. I put the caster block over something that has a hollow spot like the webbing of an A-Arm to push tap them out. The inserts arent all that tight going into the exotek caster block, but they have a small grub screw to secure them.
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Old 12-11-2016, 10:48 PM   #13948
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Only real need for the aluminum ones would be if you have an issue breaking the regular ones. I wouldn't do the carbon ones as they are the most fragile.
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Old 12-12-2016, 08:07 AM   #13949
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Can anyone tell me which Kyosho wing this would be? Jared has been running it for quite some time (Reedy Race and his most recent race at Speed RC). You can see where the wing has a slight molded 'T' marking to help for alignment. It could be part# LA239, LA240, or LA241?

Part # would be appreciated! Thx!


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Last edited by skrichter; 12-12-2016 at 08:30 AM.
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Old 12-12-2016, 08:10 AM   #13950
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Another view of the wing -- from this weekend at JC race @Speed RC
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-jtp_wing.jpg  
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Last edited by skrichter; 12-12-2016 at 08:20 AM.
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