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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-12-2016, 07:30 AM   #13876
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Stock, but I may drive this on a a loose, outdoor low grip track, so looking for max traction. If the 15 has less traction than the 16 6.6 im orobably not interested, as that's the point in getting a stand up . Thx!!
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Will it be stock or mod? The answer to that question dictates my response. Mainly because of weight.
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Old 11-12-2016, 09:31 PM   #13877
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Stock, but I may drive this on a a loose, outdoor low grip track, so looking for max traction. If the 15 has less traction than the 16 6.6 im orobably not interested, as that's the point in getting a stand up . Thx!!
I've had good success with 3 gear stand up on loose surfaces. I'd reccomended picking up the 6.6 parts if you don't already have them. 15 car is lighter than the 6.6 mainly because of the chassis.
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Old 11-12-2016, 11:48 PM   #13878
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Any need for the brass rf hanger with the motor back that far and the 6.6 chassis? Thx!

Quote:
Originally Posted by likea45 View Post
I've had good success with 3 gear stand up on loose surfaces. I'd reccomended picking up the 6.6 parts if you don't already have them. 15 car is lighter than the 6.6 mainly because of the chassis.
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Old 11-13-2016, 01:57 AM   #13879
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So I finished my build on my RB6.6 and this thing is awesome!! My only issue is that the sensor cable I have is WAY too short so my ESC is sitting on top of the battery strap currently lol. On a side note..anyone know if castle makes a motor rebuild kit? I just figured out (while installing the motor in to my RB6) that the bearings seized up inside it....
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Old 11-13-2016, 04:45 PM   #13880
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Has anyone ever run any kind of non turn motor? I'm new to motors and don't understand kv vs turn motors. All I have right now is my Tekin Pro4 4600kv motor that I have in my RB6 right now...my buddy told me it is too much motor for it. My castle 3800 just took a dump on me so I'm running the pro4 for now. I'm also running 23/76 gearing.

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Old 11-13-2016, 06:34 PM   #13881
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That motoe is for 4x4 short course trucks. You may destroy your gearbox, outdrives, and diff with that. Go to the track, figure out what the fast guys are running there. Pick the class you want to run and get tips on the motor accordingly. If you're not running stock you don't need and expensiVe motor. If stock pick up a reedy if you want to spend $90. If you want a fast stock motor go for a $130'fantom. Don't buy anything until you see what class they are running at the track and which one you want to run


=jcsfearless;14734381]Has anyone ever run any kind of non turn motor? I'm new to motors and don't understand kv vs turn motors. All I have right now is my Tekin Pro4 4600kv motor that I have in my RB6 right now...my buddy told me it is too much motor for it. My castle 3800 just took a dump on me so I'm running the pro4 for now. I'm also running 23/76 gearing.[/QUOTE]
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Old 11-13-2016, 07:57 PM   #13882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Any need for the brass rf hanger with the motor back that far and the 6.6 chassis? Thx!
Brass is unneeded. Just adds extra weight and isn't helping with traction as much as you'd think. So 6.6 3 gear box and rear bulkhead on the 15 car is money!
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Old 11-13-2016, 09:03 PM   #13883
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Thanks! Somethings up with this new chassis and its flex points as some have noted. One of my buddies stated he is running the 6.6 laydown with hole shots and not converting to a standup for an upcoming reedy outdoor race on a track that runs hole shots. Said it had better traction with the laydown than his brothers rb6 standup...btw - any value in aluminum hubs? Anyone know how much added weight that is? Buggy is a little porky
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Originally Posted by likea45 View Post
Brass is unneeded. Just adds extra weight and isn't helping with traction as much as you'd think. So 6.6 3 gear box and rear bulkhead on the 15 car is money!
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Old 11-14-2016, 12:22 AM   #13884
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The 6.6 laydown with shocks on the front as per kit has massive amounts of traction.

So much so it's the layout of choice on medium to low grip for me..

Check out petit as I have just posted my most recent set up on there which was on a rubberised indoor running track type floor.
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Old 11-14-2016, 08:38 PM   #13885
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
That motoe is for 4x4 short course trucks. You may destroy your gearbox, outdrives, and diff with that. Go to the track, figure out what the fast guys are running there. Pick the class you want to run and get tips on the motor accordingly. If you're not running stock you don't need and expensiVe motor. If stock pick up a reedy if you want to spend $90. If you want a fast stock motor go for a $130'fantom. Don't buy anything until you see what class they are running at the track and which one you want to run


=jcsfearless;14734381]Has anyone ever run any kind of non turn motor? I'm new to motors and don't understand kv vs turn motors. All I have right now is my Tekin Pro4 4600kv motor that I have in my RB6 right now...my buddy told me it is too much motor for it. My castle 3800 just took a dump on me so I'm running the pro4 for now. I'm also running 23/76 gearing.
[/QUOTE]


Thanks JAE, I'd actually already been told the Pro4 was too much for my buggy but used it to drive around for a little. I wont be able to head to the track until the beginning of next month anyway and by that time I should have my Tekin Gen3 17.5t for stock class. I was just not sure what exactly could happen to my buggy if I ran that motor. Now I know so thank you for the info
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Old 11-14-2016, 08:51 PM   #13886
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Thanks JAE, I'd actually already been told the Pro4 was too much for my buggy but used it to drive around for a little. I wont be able to head to the track until the beginning of next month anyway and by that time I should have my Tekin Gen3 17.5t for stock class. I was just not sure what exactly could happen to my buggy if I ran that motor. Now I know so thank you for the info [/QUOTE]

I made much worse mistakes staring out with the wrong equipment. At least you've got one of the best buggies on the market. Good luck and have fun
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Old 11-14-2016, 09:49 PM   #13887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Thanks! Somethings up with this new chassis and its flex points as some have noted. One of my buddies stated he is running the 6.6 laydown with hole shots and not converting to a standup for an upcoming reedy outdoor race on a track that runs hole shots. Said it had better traction with the laydown than his brothers rb6 standup...btw - any value in aluminum hubs? Anyone know how much added weight that is? Buggy is a little porky
Quite a few guys went back to 4 gear stand up for low traction situations. I have seen the laydown trans move decently well on medium grip, I'm not sure about it in a low grip holeshot type situation though, but then again not long ago rear motor was the thing outdoor and almost no one uses it now.

I think the aluminum rear hubs are a good investment. Gives extra positions for placement and are more sturdy, the added weight is negligible.
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Old 11-14-2016, 11:33 PM   #13888
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The aluminum hubs are essential to this car unless you never crash. Seen too many either have ball studs rip out, or just shatter. Do yourself a big favor and pony up the cash for them. You will be a much happy camper in the end. If running mod in a 3-4 gear standup situation, I would also suggest the velvet coated small idle gear as well, to keep from blowing out the black updated one.
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Old 11-14-2016, 11:43 PM   #13889
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I'll pony up some dough for some aluminum hubs. My only other experience with plastic stockers were with my xb2 which never had any issues. How does this buggy drive in standup form btw. Does it also have more steering than it's dirt competitors (b6d, xb2 de, yz2 de, Losi 22)?? Thx all!

QUOTE=jpcopeland1;14735843]The aluminum hubs are essential to this car unless you never crash. Seen too many either have ball studs rip out, or just shatter. Do yourself a big favor and pony up the cash for them. You will be a much happy camper in the end. If running mod in a 3-4 gear standup situation, I would also suggest the velvet coated small idle gear as well, to keep from blowing out the black updated one.[/QUOTE]
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Old 11-15-2016, 07:55 AM   #13890
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I've got 1.6 2 hole front pistons. For the rear, on hand, I've got either 1.6 2 hole or 1.4 3 hole. Running med to high bite clay in stock. Which rears do every one recommend? Thx

Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
I'll pony up some dough for some aluminum hubs. My only other experience with plastic stockers were with my xb2 which never had any issues. How does this buggy drive in standup form btw. Does it also have more steering than it's dirt competitors (b6d, xb2 de, yz2 de, Losi 22)?? Thx all!

QUOTE=jpcopeland1;14735843]The aluminum hubs are essential to this car unless you never crash. Seen too many either have ball studs rip out, or just shatter. Do yourself a big favor and pony up the cash for them. You will be a much happy camper in the end. If running mod in a 3-4 gear standup situation, I would also suggest the velvet coated small idle gear as well, to keep from blowing out the black updated one.
[/QUOTE]
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