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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-19-2016, 07:03 AM   #13831
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What's everyone's ideal stroke length? With medium Rod ends on the front on outer hole on arm. The arms are basically flat with kit stroke (20mm). I had mistakenly been runnin the inner hole but car is a little darty however had more droop. Running super hi bite clay race this weekend with some flat landing jumps
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Oh I agree and I'm a huge fan of all of them but you can't deny that Kyosho's presence in 1/10 scale offroad in the USA is lacking.

You know how kids are. They want to be like the cool kids. They buy what the cool kids have. Cody King is our only cool kid in the top 25 and he's a 1/8 scale specialist.
Tebo is my favorite driver but it's partly because I'm also a dad and not a cool kid....

Last edited by JAE; 10-19-2016 at 08:50 AM.
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Old 10-19-2016, 07:35 AM   #13832
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Got my Rb6.6 finished and painted in a Tebo style.
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-rb6.jpg  
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Old 10-19-2016, 10:52 AM   #13833
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Hey guys,
So its been awhile, haven't raced in over a year. My local track has converted to carpet in my time away. I came back to the track with a completely obsolete car. I learned that Kyosho released a new update with the laydown transmission and everyone said I needed it. So I ordered and then when I got the case yesterday, the case is super warped. I put it all together and when I tighten the case together, I have extreme binding problems. Is this the case or could it be something else? I backed out all the screws and the binding lessened but it still has binding issues? Should I replace the case or is there something else that could be going on?
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Old 10-19-2016, 11:20 AM   #13834
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Hey guys,
So its been awhile, haven't raced in over a year. My local track has converted to carpet in my time away. I came back to the track with a completely obsolete car. I learned that Kyosho released a new update with the laydown transmission and everyone said I needed it. So I ordered and then when I got the case yesterday, the case is super warped. I put it all together and when I tighten the case together, I have extreme binding problems. Is this the case or could it be something else? I backed out all the screws and the binding lessened but it still has binding issues? Should I replace the case or is there something else that could be going on?
Not sure about 'super' warped but most people have reported some warping in the plastics which appears to be normal. Most folks built them and had no issues.

i've built 3 laydown tranny's now and all warped. One of them was indeed binding. I took it apart and rebuilt it. Then ran it for a few mins on the bench with a motor attached and it was good.
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Old 10-19-2016, 11:24 AM   #13835
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Originally Posted by tobamiester View Post
Not sure about 'super' warped but most people have reported some warping in the plastics which appears to be normal. Most folks built them and had no issues.

i've built 3 laydown tranny's now and all warped. One of them was indeed binding. I took it apart and rebuilt it. Then ran it for a few mins on the bench with a motor attached and it was good.
Awesome, I asked one of my buddies who knows his stuff, and he said to rebuild it and run it. He said some times new transmissions need to "break in". The idler, case, and diff are all new. Did you tighten the case together completely or did you back out the screws a little?
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Old 10-19-2016, 11:30 AM   #13836
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Awesome, I asked one of my buddies who knows his stuff, and he said to rebuild it and run it. He said some times new transmissions need to "break in". The idler, case, and diff are all new. Did you tighten the case together completely or did you back out the screws a little?
After rebuilding it, i tightened it up. It felt free enough to run/break-in.
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Old 10-19-2016, 01:07 PM   #13837
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Very informative information about laydown trasmisison, I will build my new b6.6 for Xmas :-)
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Old 10-19-2016, 05:06 PM   #13838
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Just got my laydown 3 gear built. It was warped like all the others but it closed right up and spins very free. All screws good and snug. So nice.
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Old 10-19-2016, 07:11 PM   #13839
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Haven't heard it mentioned but there's 3 options for mounting the rear tower with a laydown transmission.
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Old 10-25-2016, 05:12 AM   #13840
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
What's everyone's ideal stroke length? With medium Rod ends on the front on outer hole on arm. The arms are basically flat with kit stroke (20mm). I had mistakenly been runnin the inner hole but car is a little darty however had more droop. Running super hi bite clay race this weekend with some flat landing jumps
To run shocks all the way out on arms you need LA43 5.8mm ball ends to get proper droop, same as whats needed with Tebos tower. Any reason you want to run your front shocks that stiff?
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Old 10-25-2016, 08:17 AM   #13841
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I believe that was just the kit setup on the buggy with medium for ends, along with short links (outer hole on tower) on the front. Moved shocks in on the arm and car became darty and traction rolled easier on sweepers so reverted back to the outer hole which helped. Just noticed very little droop. Buggy drives great though. Driver needs some help...I
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
To run shocks all the way out on arms you need LA43 5.8mm ball ends to get proper droop, same as whats needed with Tebos tower. Any reason you want to run your front shocks that stiff?
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Old 10-30-2016, 11:22 AM   #13842
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Kiddo and I finally got to run our 6.6's Friday and Saturday and WOW! What a difference. We kept our 6.0's pretty tight and fresh so I know the difference is more than just that new kit feeling. I will say however that our old shock shafts had some wear. The build went smooth. Being a machinist, I really appreciate Japanese precision. I built one shock with the red kit seals and one with the clear X-ring seals and that is a HUGE difference in drag. Very noticeable. The clear X-rings are butter. I don't know why they don't just put them in the box. We built his 4 gear laydown and mine 3 gear just to feel the difference. The 4 gear seemed to be better with mod motors. Our tracks tend to go dry dusty by the end of the night so I ran the rear tower all the way back and cut the tabs off the waterfall to get the battery all the way back. I also run aluminum posts instead of the backwards battery holder to clean it up and gain more room for electronics. I use the factory holes in the chassis and heat and bend the strap a shade so it fits. Really simple and clean setup. With no titanium and full size servo and speed control and aluminum pucks it weighs 1565. Might try 2.4 wheels and see what that does but I'm happy with it.
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Old 10-31-2016, 03:09 AM   #13843
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Looks good
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Old 11-01-2016, 07:59 AM   #13844
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whats good starting point for 17.5? 72/30? and will ae spurs work as all my lhs have?
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Old 11-01-2016, 08:11 AM   #13845
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Kyosho using bleeder caps on the new cars?
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