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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-07-2016, 09:33 PM   #13786
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Has anyone successfully installed the new RB6.6 lay down 3 gear transmission on a RB6 chassis?

The reason I ask is I am thinking of converting my RB6 to the 3 gear lay down transmission. I have already modified the chassis and side guards to fit the batter sideways. I want to buy all the RB6.6 parts necessary except the new RB6.6 chassis. I believe I would have to drill the two holes in my RB6 chassis to mount the front portion of the 3 gear lay down transmission. This is the part that concerns me, I could see where it could be difficult to drill the holes in the right spot on the RB6 chassis so the transmission case lines up correctly.

Any thoughts?
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Old 10-07-2016, 11:33 PM   #13787
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Default Diff longevity & tips

Looking to build a spare diff to have one ready at the track. Running stock with a slipper eliminator.

What is the longevity of these diff's?

Also, would the diff benefit from any aftermarket parts such as a caged ceramic thrust bearing or different balls? Anything you need to do differently or quirks with these diffs? Thx much. Love this buggy
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Old 10-08-2016, 12:03 AM   #13788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAE View Post
Looking to build a spare diff to have one ready at the track. Running stock with a slipper eliminator.

What is the longevity of these diff's?

Also, would the diff benefit from any aftermarket parts such as a caged ceramic thrust bearing or different balls? Anything you need to do differently or quirks with these diffs? Thx much. Love this buggy
They are pretty good as long as you don't skimp on the white grease. Lube the balls and dif gear well and it will stay smooth for quite awhile. With that said I rebuild my difs usually twice each outdoor and indoor season. Mostly to keep my edge and because I race 2-3 times a week so mine wear faster than say someone racing once or twice a month. Great easy to build dif though!
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Old 10-08-2016, 05:38 AM   #13789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Payton 34 View Post
Has anyone successfully installed the new RB6.6 lay down 3 gear transmission on a RB6 chassis?

The reason I ask is I am thinking of converting my RB6 to the 3 gear lay down transmission. I have already modified the chassis and side guards to fit the batter sideways. I want to buy all the RB6.6 parts necessary except the new RB6.6 chassis. I believe I would have to drill the two holes in my RB6 chassis to mount the front portion of the 3 gear lay down transmission. This is the part that concerns me, I could see where it could be difficult to drill the holes in the right spot on the RB6 chassis so the transmission case lines up correctly.

Any thoughts?
I converted my two buggies. It is a little tough to get the holes in the correct spot, in fact I missed it on the first one and one of the screws is missing (I'll probably end up enlarging the hole at some point). For the second one, I was much more careful. I used a piece of paper and made a template for the hole spacing, tracing the bottom of the transmission. It went perfectly.

BTW, I spent an hour trying to figure out why the original long screw through the transmission to the motor plate wasn't long enough. Turns out, you get a new longer screw with the kit Don't overlook that like I did.
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Old 10-08-2016, 10:07 AM   #13790
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heyscottn, Thanks for the great info!

I just thought of a possible remaining issue. What holes in the chassis does the plastic water fall mount (UM723) use once the lay down trans is installed? The reason I ask is because my side ways battery butts up against the waterfall. I already grinded my chassis and side guards. If the waterfall is positioned further forward on the chassis I may have to grind some more off the chassis because the battery will now sit further forward.

Also am I correct that I really don't need the RB6.6 battery mount (UM733) because when the battery is mounted sideways there is no need for the plastic stopper?

Thanks
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Old 10-09-2016, 10:09 AM   #13791
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At the end I just bought the new RB6.6 kit. I was thinking to got the B6 instead I've choose to go with Kyosho.

I hope I've done the right choice. :-)
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Old 10-09-2016, 02:05 PM   #13792
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@lynx: I love my RB6.6, best 2WD buggy I've driven so far. I think you will too! Please let us know if we can help you get dialed.
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Old 10-09-2016, 04:18 PM   #13793
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Payton34 - I don't think the waterfall location changed, same screw holes. I moved my battery further forward past where the chassis was ground down (by a previous owner, I don't have the tools). So I used spacers under the waterfall and battery mounts. Same old battery strap.
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Old 10-09-2016, 04:23 PM   #13794
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Has anyone weighed their ceramic bearing kits vs the stock bearing kits? What is the weight difference? Thanks!
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Old 10-09-2016, 05:06 PM   #13795
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anyone tried this car with the sway bars. a friend of mine with a different car ran both front and rear sway bars this last race day. I haven't tried them yet but i have a set on the way. curious if anyone else tried the sways?
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Old 10-09-2016, 07:09 PM   #13796
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Hey guys I'm running a 17.5 Blinky in my rb6 and I'm geared 76/30 but the motor is too hot for me even after a few laps (med outdoor clay med bite) I have a 69 and 72 spur and a 32 pinion in my parts box which combo would run the coolest? I'm not poking for speed just want my temps down, thanks.
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Old 10-09-2016, 10:04 PM   #13797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOOSTN View Post
Hey guys I'm running a 17.5 Blinky in my rb6 and I'm geared 76/30 but the motor is too hot for me even after a few laps (med outdoor clay med bite) I have a 69 and 72 spur and a 32 pinion in my parts box which combo would run the coolest? I'm not poking for speed just want my temps down, thanks.
First and foremost before any gearing changes, check to make sure the transmission is spinning freely with no binding. Same goes for all rotating parts like wheel bearings and dog bones etc. Make sure everything moves easily and freely.

Secondly how old is the motor? Take it out remove the pinion and try turning the rotor and make sure there are no binds there. If all is good there I would consider trying a 69T spur and maybe a 29t pinion for starters and see how the car feels and check the temps.

I run 69/30 in stock with motor temps around 120~130 after a main.
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Old 10-09-2016, 10:35 PM   #13798
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The motor has had about 10 packs through it, everything else spins freely nothing binding also I'm not using any timing on the motor (which is an lrp x20) but I really want to be on the conservative side when it comes to top end speed.

I'll give the 69/30 a try thanks for the help
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Old 10-10-2016, 05:18 AM   #13799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BOOSTN View Post
The motor has had about 10 packs through it, everything else spins freely nothing binding also I'm not using any timing on the motor (which is an lrp x20) but I really want to be on the conservative side when it comes to top end speed.

I'll give the 69/30 a try thanks for the help
If you are already having motor temperature issues with 76/30, then 69/30 combo will make it worse.

Formula for calculating Final Drive Ratio for the RB6,

(Spur Gear / Pinion Gear) x Internal Ratio = Final Drive Ratio

Example:
(76/30) x 2.6 = 6.586

For a blinky 17.5, that ratio above is already considered pretty safe and suits very technical twisty tracks. FYI, i don't run LRP X20 motors so i'm not too sure about their typical temperature range.

When you say "too hot", what is the exact temperature with a temperature gun?
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Old 10-10-2016, 06:31 AM   #13800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tpg racer View Post
If you are already having motor temperature issues with 76/30, then 69/30 combo will make it worse.

Formula for calculating Final Drive Ratio for the RB6,

(Spur Gear / Pinion Gear) x Internal Ratio = Final Drive Ratio

Example:
(76/30) x 2.6 = 6.586

For a blinky 17.5, that ratio above is already considered pretty safe and suits very technical twisty tracks. FYI, i don't run LRP X20 motors so i'm not too sure about their typical temperature range.

When you say "too hot", what is the exact temperature with a temperature gun?
I tried 69/30 and that seems to be working well. I took that motor out and put a speed passion 17.5 in and it isn't as near as hot as the lrp so I dunno might've been the motor on its way out.

I don't have a temp gun I was just going off my finger. After 10 laps I couldn't hold my finger on the lrp but after I put the speed passion in it was just warm not hot after another 10 laps, even the esc was cooler. Either way I found what I'm looking for anyway thanks for the help.
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