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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 09-20-2016, 02:16 PM   #13711
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I'm going to upset a few people but I mean the best, honest.

I've spent a year away from Kyosho with another brand and when I got the RB6.6 my first thought was "WOW, so much rear endgrip and bite, need to tune a lot of that out!".
My second thought was "surely the RB6 didn't have this much grip?".

Well the next two days were totally devoted to going back and forth between the RB6.6 and RB6 chassis in both 3 gear stand up and laydown configurations (it's an easy mod to the original RB6 chassis to fit the laydown).
Well, the stop watch doesn't lie and in standup I was around 0.7s per 21s lap quicker with the the RB6.6 chassis.
With the laydown well, I struggled to believ.e this myself hence doing 5 back to back tests, but I was around 1.5s per lap quicker with the RB6.6 chassis every run. Yes that is huge but tat is how much I was away from the VERY best drivers, now I'm more or less matching their time. I still don't believe it myself but the RB6.6 is so hooked up it flatters a good driver.

So, whilst it is simple to get the transmission parts and drill a couple of holes I'd say you won't be getting the full RB6.6 experience if you do that.

On the other hand the definite reduction in rear end grip using the original RB6 chassis Vs the RB6.6 chassis might help on SUPER high sidebite tracks like Silverstone in the UK, I'll keep you posted.
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Old 09-20-2016, 11:32 PM   #13712
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Originally Posted by RogerM View Post
I'm going to upset a few people but I mean the best, honest.

I've spent a year away from Kyosho with another brand and when I got the RB6.6 my first thought was "WOW, so much rear endgrip and bite, need to tune a lot of that out!".
My second thought was "surely the RB6 didn't have this much grip?".

Well the next two days were totally devoted to going back and forth between the RB6.6 and RB6 chassis in both 3 gear stand up and laydown configurations (it's an easy mod to the original RB6 chassis to fit the laydown).
Well, the stop watch doesn't lie and in standup I was around 0.7s per 21s lap quicker with the the RB6.6 chassis.
With the laydown well, I struggled to believ.e this myself hence doing 5 back to back tests, but I was around 1.5s per lap quicker with the RB6.6 chassis every run. Yes that is huge but tat is how much I was away from the VERY best drivers, now I'm more or less matching their time. I still don't believe it myself but the RB6.6 is so hooked up it flatters a good driver.

So, whilst it is simple to get the transmission parts and drill a couple of holes I'd say you won't be getting the full RB6.6 experience if you do that.

On the other hand the definite reduction in rear end grip using the original RB6 chassis Vs the RB6.6 chassis might help on SUPER high sidebite tracks like Silverstone in the UK, I'll keep you posted.
Everyone's experience will differ. The biggest decision for me to continue with my light chassis is that I run stock. It's the biggest class in my area and with the .6 chassis being significantly heavier that was out for stock. If a mod class starts showing up I'll use the .6 chassis of course.
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Old 09-21-2016, 01:08 AM   #13713
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerM View Post
I'm going to upset a few people but I mean the best, honest.

I've spent a year away from Kyosho with another brand and when I got the RB6.6 my first thought was "WOW, so much rear endgrip and bite, need to tune a lot of that out!".
My second thought was "surely the RB6 didn't have this much grip?".

Well the next two days were totally devoted to going back and forth between the RB6.6 and RB6 chassis in both 3 gear stand up and laydown configurations (it's an easy mod to the original RB6 chassis to fit the laydown).
Well, the stop watch doesn't lie and in standup I was around 0.7s per 21s lap quicker with the the RB6.6 chassis.
With the laydown well, I struggled to believ.e this myself hence doing 5 back to back tests, but I was around 1.5s per lap quicker with the RB6.6 chassis every run. Yes that is huge but tat is how much I was away from the VERY best drivers, now I'm more or less matching their time. I still don't believe it myself but the RB6.6 is so hooked up it flatters a good driver.

So, whilst it is simple to get the transmission parts and drill a couple of holes I'd say you won't be getting the full RB6.6 experience if you do that.

On the other hand the definite reduction in rear end grip using the original RB6 chassis Vs the RB6.6 chassis might help on SUPER high sidebite tracks like Silverstone in the UK, I'll keep you posted.
RogerM is back! I enjoy your posts, always information packed.

On a RB6, when using a sideways lipo, most people file the outside lip of the chassis to lower the lipo. Of course this affects the stiffness of the chassis.

Now the RB6.6 chassis is flat, maybe the added flex is why you experiented a grip increase.

So I wonder if you used a filed RB6 chassis, or was it a stock one?
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Old 09-21-2016, 08:36 AM   #13714
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Great info Roger. Thank you!

It makes perfect sense as most everyone removes the side guard screws from the 6 to allow more flex. I'm in the process of building a lightweight 6 for 17.5 class and might just try milling the entire chassis flat to mimic the 6.6

Hmmmmm....
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Old 09-21-2016, 09:54 AM   #13715
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Thanks. Found them. Also found some negative feedback. Their FB page has been dead for a while. I'll see if they answer an email.
The ones I had, were good,
But, with any type of narrowed gears, they'll likely not last as long as a full gear will. I'm sure someone out there can make some
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Old 09-21-2016, 03:07 PM   #13716
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The ones I had, were good,
But, with any type of narrowed gears, they'll likely not last as long as a full gear will. I'm sure someone out there can make some
I only race 17.5 once every couple months so I was going to run a 6.6 in mod every week and build the old 6 for stock class. At Trackside you need every advantage you can get in stock class.

I've been a machinist for over 20 years but I just don't feel like hanging around after hours to cut gears. LOL! Guess I'll give it a shot.
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Old 09-22-2016, 08:20 AM   #13717
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Hey guys, this may be a silly question. I bought a kit from someone here on the forum a few months ago and never got around to building it once I heard the new kit was coming out. I'm not sure if its the 2015 version, how would I be able to tell?
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Old 09-22-2016, 09:59 AM   #13718
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I think the RB6 uses the same size gear as the B4/B5/B6? B4 was 52T, as is the RB6. Recently I purchased an MIP B4 52T diff gear, and I've attached comparison pics. They are exact in dimension as far as I can tell.
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-img_1715.jpg  
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Old 09-22-2016, 01:02 PM   #13719
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I just picked up an Rb6.6. I have a number of buggies using associated b6/b5 offset wheels. I'd like to share tires. Which offset hexes do I need, if any, to run associated b6 wheels? thx much.

Buggy looks pretty awesome
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Old 09-22-2016, 01:07 PM   #13720
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I just picked up an Rb6.6. I have a number of buggies using associated b6/b5 offset wheels. I'd like to share tires. Which offset hexes do I need, if any, to run associated b6 wheels? thx much.

Buggy looks pretty awesome
Hexes are the same. But sometimes not all wheels fit well on the front hex. you may have to cut some of the outer plastic part of the wheel hex so it wont rub.
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Old 09-22-2016, 03:03 PM   #13721
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should fit fine. Ive bought associated wheels and worked fine
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Old 09-22-2016, 04:46 PM   #13722
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Hey guys, this may be a silly question. I bought a kit from someone here on the forum a few months ago and never got around to building it once I heard the new kit was coming out. I'm not sure if its the 2015 version, how would I be able to tell?

Anyone?
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Old 09-22-2016, 06:53 PM   #13723
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How's the traction in laydown form on this buggy? Any comparison to the xray, yokomo, or b6 laydowns? Want to know if I should be planning to take away weight in some places and needing to add in others once I get mine. thx
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Old 09-22-2016, 07:02 PM   #13724
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Anyone?
2015 kit part# is 34301. Does it say that on the box ?
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Old 09-22-2016, 08:35 PM   #13725
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2015 kit part# is 34301. Does it say that on the box ?
Thanks brother
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