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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 08-10-2016, 06:33 PM   #13576
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriveKyosho View Post
I just finished the build and haven't taken it to the track yet. First impressions aren't as good as I thought it was gonna be. Stripped more screws building the car than I've ever experienced in my life(Kyosho titanium screws suck) with brand new hand tools too.
Always drive a steel screw into plastic first and then put in a Ti screw to hold things together, you will have a good chance at better results.
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Old 08-10-2016, 06:46 PM   #13577
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@bill77: exotek carbon for the RB6?! Can you show us?
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Old 08-10-2016, 08:47 PM   #13578
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BiLL77 View Post
Has anyone tried the exotec carbon chassis?
Wrong thread, maybe?
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Old 08-11-2016, 01:11 AM   #13579
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As said above drive a steel screw in first before the titanium ones and try a tiny bit of grease on the screws before winding them in... No issues for me using this method :-)
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Old 08-11-2016, 05:09 AM   #13580
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Sorry i was looking at the tlr chassis duh. I'm building a 17.5 stock buggy and trying to make it light as possible.
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Old 08-11-2016, 06:57 AM   #13581
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobyrs25 View Post
Well, there is no denying the fun of Ti. You just have to keep in mind that While Japanese Ti screws are better than Chinese, neither are as good a American Ti.
See below.

Quote:
Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
Back when I quit racing in the early 90's it was all about aluminum screw kits. Honestly never had a problem with aluminum screws as long as you only used them in non-critical areas and replaced them once worn. There is quite a difference in different titanium manufacturers but some things stay constant. Titanium doesn't flex like steel or aluminum. It breaks. With as many ball studs as I've broken I'd never go titanium. For all the non-critical screws I wouldn't be afraid of aluminum at all. What's the weight difference to go all titanium anyway? Then guys go all titanium and buy brass arm hangers and chassis weights? Maybe once I get my top 15 laps within 2 tenths I'll think differently....
Exactly. Titanium, contrary to popular belief, is not actually stronger. In addition, it snaps instead of bending. Strength wise, it's roughly in-between strongest aluminum and below the weakest grades of steel. Basically people are spending a ton of money to save grams and add "bling" when proper battery selection could save literally 100x more weight at an extreme fraction of the cost. 12.9 steel is ideal in nearly every application in this hobby.
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Old 08-11-2016, 10:18 AM   #13582
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Did the Body style Change? Canīt really see it from the Pictures. Seems the cab changed a Little ?
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Old 08-11-2016, 10:53 AM   #13583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ice22 View Post
Did the Body style Change? Canīt really see it from the Pictures. Seems the cab changed a Little ?
very slightly, the cab is a tad lower.
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Old 08-11-2016, 01:12 PM   #13584
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I agree with RokleM on the battery front, you can easily run mod in most cases with a 3200mAh Capacity battery (or near here) that will shave 50-75grams off the weight of the car. Almost no cost if you don't already have a battery and are buying one for the car new. For example the Orion Carbon Pro 3200 is aprox 125 grams. Typical shorty is 175 and up, my 4600s are 200-205 for example.

All that being said I still have a full set of titanium screws, turnbuckles, hinge pins, the works as I like to be able to adjust the weight distribution of the car without adding weights whenever possible. I've also used lunsford for so many years, it's basically a habit now. It's not cheap, and for the average racer completely unnecessary. Sorry Kelly!

As a side note, I've just built up my RB6.6 with carbon parts, titanium, and a 4600 shorty and I seem to be coming in around 1475. I still need to add a chassis skin and some accesory items though, so don't take this in stone. Hope that helps!

So far I love the RB6.6. Build was fun, Kyosho manual not that great as usual.
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Old 08-11-2016, 02:58 PM   #13585
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Can we just use the standard chassis protector for the rb6.6?
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Old 08-11-2016, 04:55 PM   #13586
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twisterdave View Post
Can we just use the standard chassis protector for the rb6.6?
Kyosho ones won't be wide enough. After market (that maybe used to cover plastic side pods) should work..
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Old 08-11-2016, 05:24 PM   #13587
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Originally Posted by RokleM View Post
See below.



Exactly. Titanium, contrary to popular belief, is not actually stronger. In addition, it snaps instead of bending. Strength wise, it's roughly in-between strongest aluminum and below the weakest grades of steel. Basically people are spending a ton of money to save grams and add "bling" when proper battery selection could save literally 100x more weight at an extreme fraction of the cost. 12.9 steel is ideal in nearly every application in this hobby.

What type of Titanium? I have Kyosho Ti screws, Schelle Ti screws and Lunsford ti screws. The Kyosho don't even look like the same quality as the other two brands.

With the Lunsford and Schelle ti screws there is no need to pre thread plastic and I've never had one break.
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Old 08-11-2016, 05:53 PM   #13588
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What are the differences from 2015 rb6 and rb6.6 besides trans chassis and body?
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Old 08-11-2016, 06:42 PM   #13589
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Originally Posted by BiLL77 View Post
What are the differences from 2015 rb6 and rb6.6 besides trans chassis and body?
The price is different, not bad considering the options.
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Old 08-11-2016, 06:49 PM   #13590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GIHOSU View Post
The price is different, not bad considering the options.
Good lord.....

Braahaha!
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