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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 08-09-2016, 09:07 PM   #13561
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The exotek one fits under the laydown trans
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Old 08-09-2016, 10:37 PM   #13562
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Correct guys, the newer "B" alum block is machined to fit under the laydown transmission. otherwise the old block fits fine wth the stand up transmission cases.
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Old 08-10-2016, 04:17 AM   #13563
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriveKyosho View Post


Waiting for all the options parts and titanium screw set to come in before I build her.
I just hope it compares to my yz2.
does it compare ?

and what made you change from the yz2
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Old 08-10-2016, 08:43 AM   #13564
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I can take measurements of the new piece if you guys want to grind your old one down.


It would be cool to see Kyosho do a trade in program for a piece like this that they are obviously modifying. No sense in wasting the older pieces, although I know a lot of guys will run the RB6 for a while. Still an awesome car. Most of the new parts bolt on.

Hope this helps!
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Old 08-10-2016, 08:49 AM   #13565
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I built mine up last night and although it is very obviously warped it goes together and the transmission is pretty smooth. I don't notice any binding. It's a bit tough to get the long screws into the motor plate due to the bind but I think maybe after it's been bolted together for a bit it may start to come into the proper shape. Either way mine spins pretty well and I think it will really open up once the bearings break in a bit. Hope you have good luck with your's too!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DriveKyosho View Post
So I was just about to start the step 44 where you start to assemble the transmission and was messing around with the case seeing how it looks before I assemble it and found that the molds are not straight. Again these are two empty cases that I just stuck together. Even after forcing it to close the gaps you can see a hole where dirt can easily get in. What would you do?



This is a picture of one side on a flat surface. You can see where it isn't touching. Same for the other side just one is more than the other.



You can see the gap even after closing the two cases. You can actually se thru the cases which can't be good.

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Old 08-10-2016, 08:59 AM   #13566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickyGeko View Post
does it compare ?

and what made you change from the yz2

I just finished the build and haven't taken it to the track yet. First impressions aren't as good as I thought it was gonna be. Stripped more screws building the car than I've ever experienced in my life(Kyosho titanium screws suck) with brand new hand tools too. Seems to be a little on the heavy side. My YZ2 is in a league of its own I guess. As you can see from my user name, I'm a Kyosho guy. My first race car being a Ultima EP Type R and have had almost every K car and boat since.

Currently waiting on a few more titanium goodies to come in but this is my RB6.6 as it sits.

3 Gear lay down transmission
Titanium screws
5mm front and rear Carbon Fiber shock towers
Aluminum gunmetal wheel nuts
Aluminum front suspension block type B
Aluminum steering assembly with steering support UMW724
Aluminum rear 0 degree hubs
Aluminum battery post and thumb screws
Aluminum rear suspension holder
Yokomo spur gear cover(cause it looks great with all the other gunmetal lol)
Not to mention this was built with all aluminum washers not the plastic ones for more bling lol

One hella expensive roller here!







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Old 08-10-2016, 10:01 AM   #13567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
Correct guys, the newer "B" alum block is machined to fit under the laydown transmission. otherwise the old block fits fine wth the stand up transmission cases.
I take it we can use the new B version with the stand up cases as well? In the part description it says for laydown trans only.
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Old 08-10-2016, 01:36 PM   #13568
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Derry, it will work.

DriveKyosho, speaking from personal experience remove the aluminum washers from the rear hubs. They will rub against each other and that will not be good. You are better of using the plastic washers instead.
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Old 08-10-2016, 01:53 PM   #13569
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Derry: Yeah, the B Version will work with all the transmission cases.

@DriveKyosho: what the brace you are using on the top of your steering columns? I want!
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Old 08-10-2016, 01:56 PM   #13570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
Derry, it will work.

DriveKyosho, speaking from personal experience remove the aluminum washers from the rear hubs. They will rub against each other and that will not be good. You are better of using the plastic washers instead.
Good call I'll get those changed out before I run it
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Old 08-10-2016, 01:57 PM   #13571
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
Derry: Yeah, the B Version will work with all the transmission cases.

@DriveKyosho: what the brace you are using on the top of your steering columns? I want!
Umw724 is the part number
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Old 08-10-2016, 03:43 PM   #13572
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriveKyosho View Post
Stripped more screws building the car than I've ever experienced in my life(Kyosho titanium screws suck) with brand new hand tools too.
That's because titanium screws have absolutely no place in the hobby, but we the racers have sucked them up like crazy because 99% of people think/research before buying: more expensive = better
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Old 08-10-2016, 04:52 PM   #13573
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Originally Posted by RokleM View Post
That's because titanium screws have absolutely no place in the hobby, but we the racers have sucked them up like crazy because 99% of people think/research before buying: more expensive = better
Well, there is no denying the fun of Ti. You just have to keep in mind that While Japanese Ti screws are better than Chinese, neither are as good a American Ti.
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Old 08-10-2016, 04:57 PM   #13574
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Has anyone tried the exotec carbon chassis?
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Old 08-10-2016, 05:10 PM   #13575
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Originally Posted by RokleM View Post
That's because titanium screws have absolutely no place in the hobby, but we the racers have sucked them up like crazy because 99% of people think/research before buying: more expensive = better


Back when I quit racing in the early 90's it was all about aluminum screw kits. Honestly never had a problem with aluminum screws as long as you only used them in non-critical areas and replaced them once worn. There is quite a difference in different titanium manufacturers but some things stay constant. Titanium doesn't flex like steel or aluminum. It breaks. With as many ball studs as I've broken I'd never go titanium. For all the non-critical screws I wouldn't be afraid of aluminum at all. What's the weight difference to go all titanium anyway? Then guys go all titanium and buy brass arm hangers and chassis weights? Maybe once I get my top 15 laps within 2 tenths I'll think differently....
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