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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 05-12-2016, 08:30 AM   #13261
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Originally Posted by tps3443 View Post
The MIP pucks system looks really clean when it's installed but, the stock ones are super strong. None bent or broken so far I'm sticking with the stock cvd setup.

What is the best, thickest carbon fiber towers / hangars to run?
Avid axles are the strongest.. I've been using the tebo towers,so far they have been good.. Kyosho hangers
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Old 05-12-2016, 09:35 AM   #13262
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Originally Posted by Tpg racer View Post
Not really sure which bodyshell you are referring to but i am guessing you are looking for the Muchmore WonderBody bodyshell
This one
http://events.redrc.net/2015/10/chas...o-matsukura-5/

I know it says xgear but i cant find anythg on the internet.
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Old 05-12-2016, 10:13 AM   #13263
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Originally Posted by juicy74 View Post
This one
http://events.redrc.net/2015/10/chas...o-matsukura-5/

I know it says xgear but i cant find anythg on the internet.
Google Muchmore WonderBody / XGear WonderBody
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Old 05-13-2016, 12:39 AM   #13264
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in my previous post is answer...

lightweight Tamiya #84374
standard Tamiya #84368

same bodyshell
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Old 05-13-2016, 10:47 PM   #13265
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Originally Posted by Tpg racer View Post
Google Muchmore WonderBody / XGear WonderBody
Thanks!

Last edited by juicy74; 05-14-2016 at 01:39 AM.
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Old 05-14-2016, 01:40 AM   #13266
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Originally Posted by akimrc View Post
in my previous post is answer...

lightweight Tamiya #84374
standard Tamiya #84368

same bodyshell
Oh sorry i misread your previous post. Thanks!!
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Old 05-15-2016, 02:29 PM   #13267
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Is it just me, or is the Kyosho RB6 just super tough?

I have yet to break anything. Other then a bad sensor wire at the track today. R10 Pro was flashing green with reduced power. Changed sensor wire out. It fixed it.

I'm running the punch on my R10 Pro at #1 slipper is quite loose, diff tight. And it is amazingly smooth and just perfect with my Trinity 24K 6.5T. This car just seems to be like butter on the track. It feels alot smoother then a team associated I drove.

I must say though, I did drive a Schumacher KF2 I liked it .



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Old 05-16-2016, 11:06 AM   #13268
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Could someone please tell me how to attain 0 degree anti-squat?
How or where do you add shims to the rear front hanger? I am a little confused on this portion. Are they telling you to put shims under your front suspension holder? In the instructions they do not show this. I am completely lost.

Does anyone have an idiots guide to setting up anti-squat and pro-squat? Been searching for quite some time but have not found anything.
Thanks

Last edited by RiPPeN302; 05-16-2016 at 11:24 AM.
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Old 05-16-2016, 03:01 PM   #13269
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Originally Posted by RiPPeN302 View Post
Could someone please tell me how to attain 0 degree anti-squat?
How or where do you add shims to the rear front hanger? I am a little confused on this portion. Are they telling you to put shims under your front suspension holder? In the instructions they do not show this. I am completely lost.

Does anyone have an idiots guide to setting up anti-squat and pro-squat? Been searching for quite some time but have not found anything.
Thanks
You can't get zero degrees.
You must have 1mm worth of shims somewhere in the rear.
Either 1mm below the rear hanger, 1mm above the rear hanger, .5mm above and below, or any other combination of shims that add up to 1mm above or below the rear hanger.
1mm under the rear hanger gives you .75 degrees
.5mm above and below gives you 1.5 degrees
1mm above gives you 2.25 degrees

No shims under the front hanger. Ever.

Seems like most run 1.5 degrees and forget it.
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Old 05-16-2016, 06:54 PM   #13270
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RZ6 update.

I love it. After moving the speed control to behind the motor and adding .5 ounce of weight just behind the battery, the car is dialed. I run on a track that slicks work great on. I'm confident it would work really well on a looser surface too.
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Old 05-16-2016, 09:11 PM   #13271
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Originally Posted by scoobyrs25 View Post
RZ6 update.

I love it. After moving the speed control to behind the motor and adding .5 ounce of weight just behind the battery, the car is dialed. I run on a track that slicks work great on. I'm confident it would work really well on a looser surface too.
where do you race at? i want to check out some vehicles outside of team associated brand.
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Old 05-17-2016, 02:09 PM   #13272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
You can't get zero degrees.
You must have 1mm worth of shims somewhere in the rear.
Either 1mm below the rear hanger, 1mm above the rear hanger, .5mm above and below, or any other combination of shims that add up to 1mm above or below the rear hanger.
1mm under the rear hanger gives you .75 degrees
.5mm above and below gives you 1.5 degrees
1mm above gives you 2.25 degrees

No shims under the front hanger. Ever.

Seems like most run 1.5 degrees and forget it.
Thanks for the info as I try to understand this.

What happens when you assemble without any shims at all? Bad things? I race on a low to mid traction dirt track where RM dominates currently.

Why 1mm minimum total shim?

The RB6 instructions for RM show a single 0.5mm spacer below the holder, while MM shows 0.5mm below the holder plus an optional 1mm above.

Wouldn't that suggest 0.5mm is acceptable for some setups? What am I missing? Thx!
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Old 05-17-2016, 03:42 PM   #13273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vietjdmboi View Post
where do you race at? i want to check out some vehicles outside of team associated brand.
LRH on Sundays
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Old 05-17-2016, 03:51 PM   #13274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raz14 View Post
Thanks for the info as I try to understand this.

What happens when you assemble without any shims at all? Bad things? I race on a low to mid traction dirt track where RM dominates currently.

Why 1mm minimum total shim?

The RB6 instructions for RM show a single 0.5mm spacer below the holder, while MM shows 0.5mm below the holder plus an optional 1mm above.

Wouldn't that suggest 0.5mm is acceptable for some setups? What am I missing? Thx!
No idea about rear motor but my manual shows .5mm above and below or 1mm above for more anti-squat. All the parts are sandwiched between the chassis and the transmission. 1mm gives the correct spacing so there is no binding or flexing of anything.
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Old 05-17-2016, 03:59 PM   #13275
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Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
No idea about rear motor but my manual shows .5mm above and below or 1mm above for more anti-squat. All the parts are sandwiched between the chassis and the transmission. 1mm gives the correct spacing so there is no binding or flexing of anything.
Looking closer at MM in the book, it does indeed show 2x0.5mm std then the 1mm optional shim, you're right.

Thanks for explaining. I'll make sure my cars have at least the proper std spacing.
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