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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 04-20-2016, 07:27 PM   #13201
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Default Rb6 with 8.5 mid motor

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Originally Posted by Kraig View Post
I thought I remember you saying that you will use the car for more than just driving it around the track so with that thought in mind I think they will do just fine. When buying batteries, usually, the higher the Mah the longer the run time.

Now the racer in me wants to inform you that almost everyone is running shorty packs now but don't let that stop you from running saddles. Saddle packs tend to have more capacity than a shorty so you will have a lot of time having fun.

.

Anything can blow a ball differential if it is not maintained or set properly. I would recommend that you read the How To Properly Build And Break In a Ball Differential and Slipper Clutch thread. You might already know this but it is a nice refresher.



I would go with aluminum if you can. I don't know if one type of metal wears the plastic faster or not but it is nice to have less rotating mass.

You must have used a lot of grease building the diff. Not a big deal because any excess grease will just get spun off the differential. As for the gears, I run mine dry but adding grease should not hurt it but it will attract dirt so you may have to clean it more frequently.
Any suggestions for pinion and spur gear .. Switching from 17.5 to 8.5 motor.. I have seen 7.5 motor with 21/76.. But I am new and wondered if there is a guide to this or just experimentation?
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Old 04-20-2016, 10:57 PM   #13202
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OMG Reroy...that's a freakin' hilarious username. There's gotta be a "FAIL" story behind it. Please share
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Old 04-21-2016, 12:52 PM   #13203
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OMG Reroy...that's a freakin' hilarious username. There's gotta be a "FAIL" story behind it. Please share
I didn't know what you meant till I read it out loud . Must be a Scooby Doo fan .
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Old 04-21-2016, 05:18 PM   #13204
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Default Almost ready to rip my RB6

Kyosho RB6 15'
Team Orion R10 Pro
Trinity D4 6.5T 40
Hitec 7955TG servo
J'concepts barcodes/brocodes tires


Waiting on my KO-Propo EX-1 Radio! I lost the receiver to my base model Flysky. And decided to just upgrade instead.

Everything soldered up, and ready to go! Just need a pinions, and servo horn screw.

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Old 04-22-2016, 03:11 AM   #13205
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Originally Posted by tps3443 View Post
Kyosho RB6 15'
Team Orion R10 Pro
Trinity D4 6.5T 40
Hitec 7955TG servo
J'concepts barcodes/brocodes tires


Waiting on my KO-Propo EX-1 Radio! I lost the receiver to my base model Flysky. And decided to just upgrade instead.

Everything soldered up, and ready to go! Just need a pinions, and servo horn screw.


I had a hard time finding a body to fit over the speed control on the shelf.
I found the sweep body had good clearance.
Your going to have a lot of forward weight with the batteries that far forward.
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Old 04-22-2016, 04:05 AM   #13206
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Agree with Paul on the ESC and body issue. If you're using the stock body, try spinning the ESC 180 degrees. That should get the wires in the cab of the body and hopefully the body will sit where it's supposed to.

I'd also try to get the batteries as far back up against the waterfall as possible. May have to grind some plastics, but then you'll be able to adjust the battery as you feel necessary.

And keep an eye on your motor temps. I run about 10degrees timing in my 6.5 4wd motor. 40degrees may be a bit high.

Car looks great though, you'll love it.
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Old 04-22-2016, 05:13 AM   #13207
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And keep an eye on your motor temps. I run about 10degrees timing in my 6.5 4wd motor. 40degrees may be a bit high.

Car looks great though, you'll love it.
40 is a lot for that motor but it should go about 140mph down the straight!
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Old 04-23-2016, 05:51 AM   #13208
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Originally Posted by NastyNate88 View Post
Has anyone tried messing with the toe/track width settings at all? Or did everyone follow in the footsteps of Tebo when he decided that D-in/D-in was the best? I have been doing some serious testing with my buddy Zach Rodgers, going from 2 all they way to 5 degrees of toe to get more clarification. What we have discovered is that, with the 17.8 drilled hole, the c-in/c-in (3degres of toe) was much more stable/predictable than d-in/d-in (which unpredictably stepped out on occasion). I also tried c-in/d-in testing 2.5 toe and 3.5 toe. My findings were what I expected... 3.5 toe had less rotation and more forward bite while cornering (a little push) which I would recommend on a medium/ low bite track. 2.5 had very quick rotation allowing me to run my fastest lap times on our medium/high bite track. Zach started messing around with rear droop with medium and short shock eyelets and just going from long to medium he said his car drove way better running mod... If you feel like you're waiting on your car in the corners (medium to low speed) I would definitely recommend testing toe and droop settings.
I just bought an sc6 and I'm trying to get the rear set with 3.5 deg of toe. What spacers would be needed to achieve this? Is there a chart online somewhere that will give the spacer/toe configurations?
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Old 04-23-2016, 06:47 AM   #13209
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Why don't you run a low profile servo and move the esv right behind the servo?
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Old 04-24-2016, 02:16 PM   #13210
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Originally Posted by gunkis84 View Post
I just bought an sc6 and I'm trying to get the rear set with 3.5 deg of toe. What spacers would be needed to achieve this? Is there a chart online somewhere that will give the spacer/toe configurations?
Try this chart. It should have what you are looking for.
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Old 04-24-2016, 10:05 PM   #13211
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Let us know how it goes. I have been thinking about getting one and using it on dirt with a 17.5.
Using the stock setup, the RZ6 was the most loose car I have ever driven. I was able to get my Schumacher KF to work great at this track, so I'm confident I can get it to work. I'll be moving the speed control behind the motor, shocks to the rear of the a arms and 3.5 degrees of toe. The car is very light, so adding a little brass won't hurt.
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Old 04-25-2016, 09:17 AM   #13212
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Originally Posted by scoobyrs25 View Post
Using the stock setup, the RZ6 was the most loose car I have ever driven. I was able to get my Schumacher KF to work great at this track, so I'm confident I can get it to work. I'll be moving the speed control behind the motor, shocks to the rear of the a arms and 3.5 degrees of toe. The car is very light, so adding a little brass won't hurt.
We have one car around here and the guy, Joe, ended up putting in a ball diff for the dirt and it looked better. He was running a mod motor though.
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Old 04-25-2016, 05:36 PM   #13213
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Originally Posted by scoobyrs25 View Post
Using the stock setup, the RZ6 was the most loose car I have ever driven. I was able to get my Schumacher KF to work great at this track, so I'm confident I can get it to work. I'll be moving the speed control behind the motor, shocks to the rear of the a arms and 3.5 degrees of toe. The car is very light, so adding a little brass won't hurt.
How much did yours weigh?
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Old 04-25-2016, 10:20 PM   #13214
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i found this spy shot from neobuggy of the new laydown trans case. it looks like you can change from 3 to 4 gear within the same case.



it also looks like the rear tower mounts up to the gearcase just like the yz2
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Old 04-26-2016, 05:30 AM   #13215
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Originally Posted by gokarter64 View Post
i found this spy shot from neobuggy of the new laydown trans case. it looks like you can change from 3 to 4 gear within the same case.



it also looks like the rear tower mounts up to the gearcase just like the yz2
How old is that post? I did not see it.... Looks interesting though.
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