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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0į/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-09-2012, 10:46 PM   #1306
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Originally Posted by C_Money View Post
Sorry forgot which ones were the expensive ones
Ceramics are the most expensive, but I dont know anyone who uses them persinally. The diff is more then awesome out of the bag, no need to upgrade a thing.
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:32 PM   #1307
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Originally Posted by lbckevin View Post
Brandon...

What is the setup you are going to use...? I run your setup on my rb5 and love it....Its for West Coast and OCRC .
Kevin

For now, I am starting with my own "general purpose medium traction clay" type setup, going strictly off my own knowledge and experience setting up almost every buggy out. I will develop one based off the kit parts (i.e. not running rb5 arms), and as soon as I have one dialed in to my liking, I will post my sheet up on my website and make changes to it as I go. I will certainly post a link here! I may run the car for the first time tomorrow... or I might wait till the nortwest gold cup, this weekend. Im excited to get some clay time in with this car... its gorgeous.

-Brandon
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:33 PM   #1308
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Package tags say "Always the Best"
Too bad the manual isn't.
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Old 10-10-2012, 12:16 AM   #1309
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Finished my build late last night...man this is the best car I have ever assembled hands down!

What's the story with the play on the upper side of the shocks? Any solutions there? Should I just leave the excessive play or tighten the plastic more?

I went with saddles side by side...has anyone tried all the battery configurations yet? What's the verdict?
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Old 10-10-2012, 01:13 AM   #1310
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Originally Posted by lbckevin View Post
Brandon...

What is the setup you are going to use...? I run your setup on my rb5 and love it....Its for West Coast and OCRC .
Did you get an RB6 Kevin?
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Old 10-10-2012, 01:40 AM   #1311
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Hey Jason, Im guessing you're running stock at WCRC. I ran my car here for the first time in a big race and found it a bit pushy (I had a lot of Tebos on it, so that didnt help). Are yhou running the stock arms with 1 hole or 2? I think for stock we won't have to mess with some of the rear end as much, and it feels super planted with the stock parts right now.

I'm going to try to race again tomorrow, hopefully practice quite a bit, but I also ran the car soft. 32.5 27.5 like my RB5. Going to try 35/30 tomorrow if I get the chance.
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Old 10-10-2012, 02:00 AM   #1312
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.

Last edited by rokitman; 10-10-2012 at 03:07 AM.
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Old 10-10-2012, 02:03 AM   #1313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Hey Jason, Im guessing you're running stock at WCRC. I ran my car here for the first time in a big race and found it a bit pushy (I had a lot of Tebos on it, so that didnt help). Are yhou running the stock arms with 1 hole or 2? I think for stock we won't have to mess with some of the rear end as much, and it feels super planted with the stock parts right now.

I'm going to try to race again tomorrow, hopefully practice quite a bit, but I also ran the car soft. 32.5 27.5 like my RB5. Going to try 35/30 tomorrow if I get the chance.
Yea running stock, but lap time wise I am pretty close to the mod lap times, just harder to do those really fast laps back to back with traffic and battling.

http://mobile.liverc.com/results/?d=...T_(A_Main).xml
http://mobile.liverc.com/results/?d=...K_BUGGY_NT.xml

I am running the rb6 rear arms flipped to the 1 hole side. If you're using the stock pistons, I would run 37.5f 32.5r.
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Old 10-10-2012, 02:06 AM   #1314
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Originally Posted by Jason.Dias View Post
Did you get an RB6 Kevin?
Hes still running his RB5. Which I must admit was pretty dialed at a less then perfect (and I mean perfect OC/RC) track today.
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Old 10-10-2012, 02:08 AM   #1315
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Originally Posted by Jason.Dias View Post
Yea running stock, but lap time wise I am pretty close to the mod lap times, just harder to do those really fast laps back to back with traffic and battling.

http://mobile.liverc.com/results/?d=...T_(A_Main).xml
http://mobile.liverc.com/results/?d=...K_BUGGY_NT.xml

I am running the rb6 rear arms flipped to the 1 hole side. If you're using the stock pistons, I would run 37.5f 32.5r.
How close are you to the japanese Team setup. I felt the buggy was the best so far with that setup. Also what are you geared at? What tires?
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Old 10-10-2012, 02:11 AM   #1316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K_King View Post
Hey Jason, Im guessing you're running stock at WCRC. I ran my car here for the first time in a big race and found it a bit pushy (I had a lot of Tebos on it, so that didnt help). Are yhou running the stock arms with 1 hole or 2? I think for stock we won't have to mess with some of the rear end as much, and it feels super planted with the stock parts right now.

I'm going to try to race again tomorrow, hopefully practice quite a bit, but I also ran the car soft. 32.5 27.5 like my RB5. Going to try 35/30 tomorrow if I get the chance.
With stock pistons I would recommend you get the Japanese Setup. Best I've run so far. With input from Jason Dias it will only get better.
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Old 10-10-2012, 02:34 AM   #1317
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Kevin

For now, I am starting with my own "general purpose medium traction clay" type setup, going strictly off my own knowledge and experience setting up almost every buggy out. I will develop one based off the kit parts (i.e. not running rb5 arms), and as soon as I have one dialed in to my liking, I will post my sheet up on my website and make changes to it as I go. I will certainly post a link here! I may run the car for the first time tomorrow... or I might wait till the nortwest gold cup, this weekend. Im excited to get some clay time in with this car... its gorgeous.

-Brandon
your going to need all the practice you can get, competitions is going to be high this weekend!
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Old 10-10-2012, 02:37 AM   #1318
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your going to need all the practice you can get, competitions is going to be high this weekend!
Talk about a throw down... Lol
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Old 10-10-2012, 02:53 AM   #1319
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
How close are you to the japanese Team setup. I felt the buggy was the best so far with that setup. Also what are you geared at? What tires?
Not very close at all to that setup, some major roll center differences as well as rear end differences. Similar to Brandon, I am going off my own knowledge and experience, a lot of what I am doing is similar to what I ran on my RB5's.

I am working on a setup sheet that I will have posted soon.

I am currently geared (5.33fdr I am using 64 pitch gears to achieve this, 43 pinion 88 spur) for a big triple at WC right now, so the car has a lot of power higher in the rpm range (not much torque), which means if you slow down to much in a corner or scrub speed it takes a little more to get going, or it might be harder to clear a jump if you don't keep the speed up.

I used some pretty worn barcodes on the runs I posted, but have since started breaking in a new set of suburbs mc. gold barcodes up front.

Last edited by Jason.Dias; 10-11-2012 at 08:21 PM.
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Old 10-10-2012, 03:56 AM   #1320
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Originally Posted by gelshocker View Post
I'm only halfway thru the build, and not counting my mistakes, the build is not as straightforward and smooth as the RB5 IMHO. Mistakes in the manual donít help: Step 12, the orientation of the ball cups showned on the steering tie rod and front upper rod are reversed. And surely having 3L at both ends of the steering tie rod, with the distance between them at 21mm, the ball ends are now fully screwed in with no room to maneuver, and when you attach to the car, you still have huge toe-in. I am guessing this is a misprint, you need a 3L with LL, or both LL even.
maybe you have the caster inserts in wrong or something i built the links per manual and when the car was finished i put it in a hudy setup station and it was dead nuts
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