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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0į/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-09-2012, 04:00 PM   #1291
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Default my setup for tight clay track

sorry guys but my printer died so i cant print a blank setup page and scan and post as a PDF . but i will give info without illustration.
following worked on this track

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c90cbWQpPoI

race results


FRONT
ball stud outer holes on bulkhead 1 mm shim
ball stud outer holes on C hub 1 mm shim
camber -2
caster 4
1 mm bump steer
kick up 25 with .05 shim
zero tow
shocks on arm outer holes with short eyelet flush with threads
shocks on tower inner holes
shock springs std
6 hole pistons with 25wt losi oil with quarter rebound
ride height 23 mm
ackerman 0.5 shims


REAR
zero tow hubs std
ball stud outer hole on hubs 2 mm shim
bulkhead brace ball stud center holes no shims
squat + .5
-2 camber
arms shimmed short
shocks outer holes on arms
shocks inner holes on tower ( placement on tower after clearance 2 3mm shims )
shock springs std
eyelet med flush with threads
6 holes pistons with losi 25 wt oil with sixteenth inch rebound
ride height 22 mm

battery short placement mid shimmed toward front
tires
front hot bodies full shots pink compound std foam

rear JC concepts bar codes green compound std foam

ready race weight 1587.57
Attached Files
File Type: pdf R4_Race_05_Buggy MOD_A-Main.pdf (30.6 KB, 76 views)

Last edited by fastestwon; 10-09-2012 at 07:47 PM.
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Old 10-09-2012, 07:13 PM   #1292
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So are the balls in the diff the $33 Kyosho ones?
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Old 10-09-2012, 07:25 PM   #1293
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I'm only halfway thru the build, and not counting my mistakes, the build is not as straightforward and smooth as the RB5 IMHO. Mistakes in the manual donít help: Step 12, the orientation of the ball cups showned on the steering tie rod and front upper rod are reversed. And surely having 3L at both ends of the steering tie rod, with the distance between them at 21mm, the ball ends are now fully screwed in with no room to maneuver, and when you attach to the car, you still have huge toe-in. I am guessing this is a misprint, you need a 3L with LL, or both LL even.
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Old 10-09-2012, 07:28 PM   #1294
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My steering links have 3L ball cups on them, and there is plenty of room to dial in the length.
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Old 10-09-2012, 07:53 PM   #1295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carcrusher46 View Post
My steering links have 3L ball cups on them, and there is plenty of room to dial in the length.
Hmm.. the distance between the inside threads of the turnbuckles is like 20mm, so screwing them in to 21mm showing, how can you have plenty of room to maneuver?

The recommend 20.5mm for the camber links to way too much as well. It just looked wrong before attaching and at 23mm I'm still plenty negative camber.

I never had this problem with the rb5 but I went straight with Lunsford.

Maybe I need to lie down a while..
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Last edited by gelshocker; 10-09-2012 at 08:04 PM.
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:22 PM   #1296
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Got to see one run today,

I'm impressed. Looked real good in the hands of an average racer. Still don't know if the price tag is worth it, but it's a very nice ride. Super quiet too.
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:27 PM   #1297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gelshocker View Post
I'm only halfway thru the build, and not counting my mistakes, the build is not as straightforward and smooth as the RB5 IMHO. Mistakes in the manual donít help: Step 12, the orientation of the ball cups showned on the steering tie rod and front upper rod are reversed. And surely having 3L at both ends of the steering tie rod, with the distance between them at 21mm, the ball ends are now fully screwed in with no room to maneuver, and when you attach to the car, you still have huge toe-in. I am guessing this is a misprint, you need a 3L with LL, or both LL even.
Mine's fine using the 3L. 21mm gave me 1 deg toe out. You do realise that when the end of the thread meets the the end of the ballcup it's not fully screwed in and you can go in further? There's nothing wrong with screwing it further in.
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:33 PM   #1298
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
Super quiet too.
One of the most attractive advantages of K imo. I had a drive of an SVR and winced when it went past flat out on the straight.

Of course it could be bad, it's nice to be able to hear it a bit.
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:47 PM   #1299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C_Money View Post
So are the balls in the diff the $33 Kyosho ones?
They look like steel to me. I have no way to tell the difference though. I immediately used fresh ceramics by Team Associated
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:53 PM   #1300
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Tungsten Carbide, #97030
Ceramics listed as optional WBD10
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:55 PM   #1301
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Yep.. the blue colored shock kits and pieces are all cheaper because that color was being discontinued. Functionally, they are the same.
Brandon...

What is the setup you are going to use...? I run your setup on my rb5 and love it....Its for West Coast and OCRC .
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:02 PM   #1302
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Brandon...

What is the setup you are going to use...? I run your setup on my rb5 and love it....Its for West Coast and OCRC .
I'll be very happy to start going back to west coast, didnt much care of OC/RC's new layout. Plan on racing tomorrow night.
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:05 PM   #1303
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
Got to see one run today,

I'm impressed. Looked real good in the hands of an average racer. Still don't know if the price tag is worth it, but it's a very nice ride. Super quiet too.
A new B4.1 with all the bells and whistles are just as expensive, so is a 22 with all of the updates you have to do to make it ok. One big difference, you wont have to rebuild the whole car as often as you will either of the 2 mentioned above.
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:06 PM   #1304
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Originally Posted by C_Money View Post
So are the balls in the diff the $33 Kyosho ones?
The kit comes with Tungsten Carbide diff balls. Do we really need to go over this again?
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:25 PM   #1305
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Sorry forgot which ones were the expensive ones
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