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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-24-2016, 10:05 PM   #13021
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My RB6 build went great. However, my car weighs in at 1480g. Heres a list of whats on my car:

Lunsford Ti turnbuckles,hinge pins, and ball studs
Kyosho Ti screw kit
Kyosho alloy steering rack,rf and rr hangars, 0 degree hubs
MM 3 gear mod
Ceramic bearings throughout
Side pods and light chassis milled to run battery sideways and flat
MIP pucks
Kyosho light slipper plates
B4 modified carbon fiber battery strap
Align servo
Hobbywing Stock Spec esc
Lrp X20 17.5
Orion Carbon shorty
Airtronics 471 receiver
Amb 2 wire transponder
Kyosho wheels with Proline Primes
JC body and wing
Kyosho chassis protector
The rest is kit parts

I bought 2 cars with lots of upgrades for 300 bucks with lots of spares. Spent a couple hundred on the other upgrades. Did a full dissemble and rebuild from ground up. I have enough parts and spares to build a fresh RM next

Anybody interested in a TLR 22 2.0???LOL!
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Old 02-24-2016, 10:20 PM   #13022
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bambambennett View Post
My RB6 build went great. However, my car weighs in at 1480g. Heres a list of whats on my car:

Lunsford Ti turnbuckles,hinge pins, and ball studs
Kyosho Ti screw kit
Kyosho alloy steering rack,rf and rr hangars, 0 degree hubs
MM 3 gear mod
Ceramic bearings throughout
Side pods and light chassis milled to run battery sideways and flat
MIP pucks
Kyosho light slipper plates
B4 modified carbon fiber battery strap
Align servo
Hobbywing Stock Spec esc
Lrp X20 17.5
Orion Carbon shorty
Airtronics 471 receiver
Amb 2 wire transponder
Kyosho wheels with Proline Primes
JC body and wing
Kyosho chassis protector
The rest is kit parts

I bought 2 cars with lots of upgrades for 300 bucks with lots of spares. Spent a couple hundred on the other upgrades. Did a full dissemble and rebuild from ground up. I have enough parts and spares to build a fresh RM next

Anybody interested in a TLR 22 2.0???LOL!
1480 with everything on? Cars sadly going to be to light to legally run. I'm shooting for 1500 on the nose. Won't ever bother with pucks again.
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Old 02-24-2016, 10:22 PM   #13023
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Originally Posted by likea45 View Post
1480 with everything on? Cars sadly going to be to light to legally run. I'm shooting for 1500 on the nose. Won't ever bother with pucks again.
Yeah, I might go with a brass rf hangar to put me at weight, or put some steel screws back in it.
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Old 02-25-2016, 03:31 PM   #13024
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Im looking to switch over from my B5M to a RB6. A few guys at my local track have them and they seem to be doing pretty well. I know you have to mill the chassis out to run the battery sideways from what i have seen with the cars they have and what i have seen on the internet. has anyone milled the chassis out and not had the ends of the battery exposed on the sides of the car? Any other issues or tips for the car? they wouldnt happen to be coming out with a RB7 anytime soon would they haha?
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Old 02-25-2016, 05:05 PM   #13025
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I run my battery sideway with untouched chassis and had to add 3mm of rubber under the battery and space up the waterfall and battery mount 3mm to make it all work.

On my sons car we milled the chassis as far as it would go without having a gap between the side guard and chassis and had to add 1mm of rubber and spacers.

To put the battery flat on the chassis you will have a gap.

Even with 3mm spacers I like it better than inline battery.
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Old 02-25-2016, 07:29 PM   #13026
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bambambennett View Post
Yeah, I might go with a brass rf hangar to put me at weight, or put some steel screws back in it.
That is what I did, brass and steel screws on the bottom. They can get really light with the right choice of electronics and battery.
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Old 02-25-2016, 08:27 PM   #13027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
I run my battery sideway with untouched chassis and had to add 3mm of rubber under the battery and space up the waterfall and battery mount 3mm to make it all work.

On my sons car we milled the chassis as far as it would go without having a gap between the side guard and chassis and had to add 1mm of rubber and spacers.

To put the battery flat on the chassis you will have a gap.

Even with 3mm spacers I like it better than inline battery.

Like mine better inline. More agile. The rb already has the trans case more rearward then most other mm's. Running on low grip and still have more then enough rear grip running inline.

Found transverse battery to be lazy to react.
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Old 02-25-2016, 11:03 PM   #13028
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robbie_gtc View Post
Like mine better inline. More agile. The rb already has the trans case more rearward then most other mm's. Running on low grip and still have more then enough rear grip running inline.

Found transverse battery to be lazy to react.
100% agree. My local indoor track is medium/high grip clay and inline batt just feels faster and more agile. I'm thinking sideways for outdoor season though.
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Old 02-26-2016, 01:43 AM   #13029
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Originally Posted by robbie_gtc View Post
Like mine better inline. More agile. The rb already has the trans case more rearward then most other mm's. Running on low grip and still have more then enough rear grip running inline.

Found transverse battery to be lazy to react.
This may be true. We've only been in the hobby for a year so we're still pretty green but for an 11 year old and a 45 year old man, lazy means easier to drive which means faster lap times. Our local hard pack dry slick track wants all the rear weight you can get. On medium/high bite I find myself looking for more steering.
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Old 02-26-2016, 03:45 AM   #13030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
This may be true. We've only been in the hobby for a year so we're still pretty green but for an 11 year old and a 45 year old man, lazy means easier to drive which means faster lap times. Our local hard pack dry slick track wants all the rear weight you can get. On medium/high bite I find myself looking for more steering.
for more steering try the brass front suspension mount
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Old 02-26-2016, 05:26 AM   #13031
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I milled my chassis with a flush fit for the battery with no exposed battery on the side pods underneath. Its ultra thin there now so i assume it might get torn. I used an end mill with the side pods mounted. It came out good. might try to get a chassis protector that isn't precut to cover up the edges too for protection of the side pod. My first chassis I practiced on a wadded one that came with the car with a dremel. It came out ok, same result being super thin on the side pod.
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Old 02-28-2016, 02:35 PM   #13032
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I'm sure it's been asked but I didn't see it in my search...is there a rear motor to mid-motor conversion for RB6? I just got a rear motor RB6 but I'm not seeing a mid-motor conversion for it anywhere....
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Old 02-28-2016, 03:24 PM   #13033
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Originally Posted by TravisS27 View Post
I'm sure it's been asked but I didn't see it in my search...is there a rear motor to mid-motor conversion for RB6? I just got a rear motor RB6 but I'm not seeing a mid-motor conversion for it anywhere....
There really is no "conversion kit" because a new kit comes with both. You just need to buy the mid motor parts.
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Old 02-28-2016, 03:47 PM   #13034
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There really is no "conversion kit" because a new kit comes with both. You just need to buy the mid motor parts.
Okay thank you
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Old 02-28-2016, 03:57 PM   #13035
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wouldnt in spin just like a rear motor since its on the same side and direction? Sorry was talking about a picture of Jared's car with new flat chassis and three gear transmission
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