172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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02-19-2016, 10:17 PM
building up my rb6 I got the aluminum steering plate and aluminum crank arms. I noticed the holes that you use to connect the aluminum steering plate to the crank arms has a bigger diameter than the plastic steering plate and the screws are swimming around in those holes. Was the aluminum steering plate supposed to come with some kind of shoulder bolts or something? just does not look right to me.
02-20-2016, 01:38 AM
building up my rb6 I got the aluminum steering plate and aluminum crank arms. I noticed the holes that you use to connect the aluminum steering plate to the crank arms has a bigger diameter than the plastic steering plate and the screws are swimming around in those holes. Was the aluminum steering plate supposed to come with some kind of shoulder bolts or something? just does not look right to me.
02-20-2016, 02:14 AM
Tech Adept
Hi I'm planning to get the rb6, will there be a new car from Kyushu anytime soon? Thanks.
02-20-2016, 10:50 AM
building up my rb6 I got the aluminum steering plate and aluminum crank arms. I noticed the holes that you use to connect the aluminum steering plate to the crank arms has a bigger diameter than the plastic steering plate and the screws are swimming around in those holes. Was the aluminum steering plate supposed to come with some kind of shoulder bolts or something? just does not look right to me.
Last edited by Kraig; 09-29-2017 at 11:20 AM.
02-20-2016, 04:32 PM
good to know thanks guys.
02-20-2016, 07:32 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
UM753-1 - Anyone have an alternative part number or other manufacture that has the plastic shock nuts? I see no need to pay $10 for the three nuts.
02-20-2016, 08:38 PM
02-20-2016, 09:36 PM
So I recently purchased a scale and tossed my 17.5 RB6 on it to check her weight. Car has been performing very well but the number shocked me. With running gear, battery, body and wheels on she was 1611g. I'm already running 3-gear and the only aluminum on the car are the exotek front C hubs and the Kyo rear hubs that are only 1g heavier than the plastic. I've heard optimal stock weight for the RB6 to be 1520~1550. I'm at a loss as to what else I can drop to lighten her up. Running inline Orion shorty all the way back, Orion r10 in front of battery and receiver/trans on the battery in front of waterfall with the Trinity 24k.
Last edited by likea45; 02-21-2016 at 09:32 PM.
02-21-2016, 01:22 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (13)
So I recently purchased a scale and tossed my 17.5 RB6 on it to check her weight. Car has been performing very well but the number shocked me. With running gear, battery, body and wheels on she was 1611g. I'm already running 3-gear and the only aluminum on the car are the exotek front C hubs and the Kyo rear hubs that are only 1g heavier than the plastic. I've heard optimal stock weight for the RB6 to be 1520~1550. I'm at a los ass to what else I can drop to lighten her up. Running inline Orion shorty all the way back, Orion r10 in front of battery and receiver/trans on the battery in front of waterfall with the Trinity 24k.
The weight saving was, in no particular order:
Low profile servo
Ti screw kit
Ti turnbuckles
Ti ball studs
Carbon composite arms, c hubs and spindles
Light weight chassis (also played around with a milled standard chassis 8g lighter than the lw version, but somewhat extreme) - both had the sides milled to mount the shortie sideways.
MIP pucks (saved about 30g of rotating mass so a good starting point)
Exotek slipper eliminator - saved a fair bit too.
It all adds up, so take what you will from it. On reflection, the titanium bits were the highest $ per gram, so if I did it again I'd probably do those bits last and only if really needed.
02-21-2016, 08:23 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
02-21-2016, 09:01 AM
02-21-2016, 10:22 AM
Would you reuse carbide diff balls and thrust bearing or is the crunchy all in the rings?
I reused them once and it felt ok but I don't think it lasted as long. Are carbide worth the money or would it be wiser to just get regular and replace them every rebuild?
I reused them once and it felt ok but I don't think it lasted as long. Are carbide worth the money or would it be wiser to just get regular and replace them every rebuild?
02-21-2016, 09:31 PM
I had mine down to 1500g with alloy front camber block, alloy rear bulkhead, alloy rear hubs and a brass RF suspension hanger (which made a big difference in medium bite dirt)
The weight saving was, in no particular order:
Low profile servo
Ti screw kit
Ti turnbuckles
Ti ball studs
Carbon composite arms, c hubs and spindles
Light weight chassis (also played around with a milled standard chassis 8g lighter than the lw version, but somewhat extreme) - both had the sides milled to mount the shortie sideways.
MIP pucks (saved about 30g of rotating mass so a good starting point)
Exotek slipper eliminator - saved a fair bit too.
It all adds up, so take what you will from it. On reflection, the titanium bits were the highest $ per gram, so if I did it again I'd probably do those bits last and only if really needed.
The weight saving was, in no particular order:
Low profile servo
Ti screw kit
Ti turnbuckles
Ti ball studs
Carbon composite arms, c hubs and spindles
Light weight chassis (also played around with a milled standard chassis 8g lighter than the lw version, but somewhat extreme) - both had the sides milled to mount the shortie sideways.
MIP pucks (saved about 30g of rotating mass so a good starting point)
Exotek slipper eliminator - saved a fair bit too.
It all adds up, so take what you will from it. On reflection, the titanium bits were the highest $ per gram, so if I did it again I'd probably do those bits last and only if really needed.
Last edited by likea45; 02-21-2016 at 10:05 PM.
02-21-2016, 09:47 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (13)
Rear arms (3 hole) KYOUMW711B
Front arms KYOUM710
Front knuckles (sorry wrong terminology) MYOUMW712
I sold my car a few weeks ago (kinda regretting it) but still have the lw chassis for sale (not a mark on it, apart from the milled sides) - not sure if the postage would make it a non starter for you? Anyway, pm if you're interested. If you search my previous posts it should come up.
02-21-2016, 10:08 PM
Front Hubs KYOUMW713
Rear arms (3 hole) KYOUMW711B
Front arms KYOUM710
Front knuckles (sorry wrong terminology) MYOUMW712
I sold my car a few weeks ago (kinda regretting it) but still have the lw chassis for sale (not a mark on it, apart from the milled sides) - not sure if the postage would make it a non starter for you? Anyway, pm if you're interested. If you search my previous posts it should come up.
Rear arms (3 hole) KYOUMW711B
Front arms KYOUM710
Front knuckles (sorry wrong terminology) MYOUMW712
I sold my car a few weeks ago (kinda regretting it) but still have the lw chassis for sale (not a mark on it, apart from the milled sides) - not sure if the postage would make it a non starter for you? Anyway, pm if you're interested. If you search my previous posts it should come up.