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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 02-19-2016, 10:17 PM   #13006
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building up my rb6 I got the aluminum steering plate and aluminum crank arms. I noticed the holes that you use to connect the aluminum steering plate to the crank arms has a bigger diameter than the plastic steering plate and the screws are swimming around in those holes. Was the aluminum steering plate supposed to come with some kind of shoulder bolts or something? just does not look right to me.
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Old 02-20-2016, 01:38 AM   #13007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psycho02 View Post
building up my rb6 I got the aluminum steering plate and aluminum crank arms. I noticed the holes that you use to connect the aluminum steering plate to the crank arms has a bigger diameter than the plastic steering plate and the screws are swimming around in those holes. Was the aluminum steering plate supposed to come with some kind of shoulder bolts or something? just does not look right to me.
Kit comes with 2 steel bushings that should be in your plastic steering plate. You'll need those. Grease them up.
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Old 02-20-2016, 02:14 AM   #13008
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Hi I'm planning to get the rb6, will there be a new car from Kyushu anytime soon? Thanks.
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Old 02-20-2016, 10:50 AM   #13009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psycho02 View Post
building up my rb6 I got the aluminum steering plate and aluminum crank arms. I noticed the holes that you use to connect the aluminum steering plate to the crank arms has a bigger diameter than the plastic steering plate and the screws are swimming around in those holes. Was the aluminum steering plate supposed to come with some kind of shoulder bolts or something? just does not look right to me.
Look for LA256.
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Old 02-20-2016, 04:32 PM   #13010
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good to know thanks guys.
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Old 02-20-2016, 07:32 PM   #13011
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UM753-1 - Anyone have an alternative part number or other manufacture that has the plastic shock nuts? I see no need to pay $10 for the three nuts.
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Old 02-20-2016, 08:38 PM   #13012
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Originally Posted by RokleM View Post
UM753-1 - Anyone have an alternative part number or other manufacture that has the plastic shock nuts? I see no need to pay $10 for the three nuts.
JConcepts 3mm Plastic Nut Set (28)
[JCO2157]

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...FUwvgQodnjkMog
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Old 02-20-2016, 09:36 PM   #13013
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So I recently purchased a scale and tossed my 17.5 RB6 on it to check her weight. Car has been performing very well but the number shocked me. With running gear, battery, body and wheels on she was 1611g. I'm already running 3-gear and the only aluminum on the car are the exotek front C hubs and the Kyo rear hubs that are only 1g heavier than the plastic. I've heard optimal stock weight for the RB6 to be 1520~1550. I'm at a loss as to what else I can drop to lighten her up. Running inline Orion shorty all the way back, Orion r10 in front of battery and receiver/trans on the battery in front of waterfall with the Trinity 24k.
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Last edited by likea45; 02-21-2016 at 09:32 PM.
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Old 02-21-2016, 01:22 AM   #13014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by likea45 View Post
So I recently purchased a scale and tossed my 17.5 RB6 on it to check her weight. Car has been performing very well but the number shocked me. With running gear, battery, body and wheels on she was 1611g. I'm already running 3-gear and the only aluminum on the car are the exotek front C hubs and the Kyo rear hubs that are only 1g heavier than the plastic. I've heard optimal stock weight for the RB6 to be 1520~1550. I'm at a los ass to what else I can drop to lighten her up. Running inline Orion shorty all the way back, Orion r10 in front of battery and receiver/trans on the battery in front of waterfall with the Trinity 24k.
I had mine down to 1500g with alloy front camber block, alloy rear bulkhead, alloy rear hubs and a brass RF suspension hanger (which made a big difference in medium bite dirt)

The weight saving was, in no particular order:
Low profile servo
Ti screw kit
Ti turnbuckles
Ti ball studs
Carbon composite arms, c hubs and spindles
Light weight chassis (also played around with a milled standard chassis 8g lighter than the lw version, but somewhat extreme) - both had the sides milled to mount the shortie sideways.
MIP pucks (saved about 30g of rotating mass so a good starting point)
Exotek slipper eliminator - saved a fair bit too.

It all adds up, so take what you will from it. On reflection, the titanium bits were the highest $ per gram, so if I did it again I'd probably do those bits last and only if really needed.
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Old 02-21-2016, 08:23 AM   #13015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orangutanracer View Post
JConcepts 3mm Plastic Nut Set (28)
[JCO2157]

http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...FUwvgQodnjkMog
I think those are flat and don't have the curve to allow for some shock movement?
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Old 02-21-2016, 09:01 AM   #13016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RokleM View Post
I think those are flat and don't have the curve to allow for some shock movement?
No curve needed. I run these with a flat washer. Plenty of play.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-trucks/kyosho-3x4.3mm-aluminum-locknut-red-5-kyo1-n3043na-r/p169852
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Old 02-21-2016, 10:22 AM   #13017
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Would you reuse carbide diff balls and thrust bearing or is the crunchy all in the rings?
I reused them once and it felt ok but I don't think it lasted as long. Are carbide worth the money or would it be wiser to just get regular and replace them every rebuild?
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Old 02-21-2016, 09:31 PM   #13018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichD View Post
I had mine down to 1500g with alloy front camber block, alloy rear bulkhead, alloy rear hubs and a brass RF suspension hanger (which made a big difference in medium bite dirt)

The weight saving was, in no particular order:
Low profile servo
Ti screw kit
Ti turnbuckles
Ti ball studs
Carbon composite arms, c hubs and spindles
Light weight chassis (also played around with a milled standard chassis 8g lighter than the lw version, but somewhat extreme) - both had the sides milled to mount the shortie sideways.
MIP pucks (saved about 30g of rotating mass so a good starting point)
Exotek slipper eliminator - saved a fair bit too.

It all adds up, so take what you will from it. On reflection, the titanium bits were the highest $ per gram, so if I did it again I'd probably do those bits last and only if really needed.
I'm considering the light chassis, a new low profile servo and a fantom slim shorty battery. Any part numbers for the carbon arms, hubs and spindles you mentioned?
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Last edited by likea45; 02-21-2016 at 10:05 PM.
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Old 02-21-2016, 09:47 PM   #13019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by likea45 View Post
I'm considering the light chassis, a new low profile servo and a fandom slim shorty battery. Any part numbers for the carbon arms, hubs and spindles you mentioned?
Front Hubs KYOUMW713
Rear arms (3 hole) KYOUMW711B
Front arms KYOUM710
Front knuckles (sorry wrong terminology) MYOUMW712

I sold my car a few weeks ago (kinda regretting it) but still have the lw chassis for sale (not a mark on it, apart from the milled sides) - not sure if the postage would make it a non starter for you? Anyway, pm if you're interested. If you search my previous posts it should come up.
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Old 02-21-2016, 10:08 PM   #13020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichD View Post
Front Hubs KYOUMW713
Rear arms (3 hole) KYOUMW711B
Front arms KYOUM710
Front knuckles (sorry wrong terminology) MYOUMW712

I sold my car a few weeks ago (kinda regretting it) but still have the lw chassis for sale (not a mark on it, apart from the milled sides) - not sure if the postage would make it a non starter for you? Anyway, pm if you're interested. If you search my previous posts it should come up.
Thanks for the part numbers. PMd you about the chassis.
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