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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 11-27-2015, 04:31 AM   #12796
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thank ou. i changed up my entire wheel base width yesterday an will go and do some testing\racing tonight to see how it goes looking to make the car more stable but still have the car turn like i had it doing should be interesting
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Old 11-27-2015, 12:16 PM   #12797
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I run the 3 line axles because the extra stability is awesome. I didnt lose any traction, if anything I felt like I gained some because the car would use the pivot better. I run C-in/C-in as well, and sometimes the rear end would dump over and and I would get loose. With the wider pivot you keep the roll you want but it wouldnt dump over either.
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Old 11-27-2015, 02:34 PM   #12798
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How are you guys tighten your front axles I replaced bearings and when I tighten it binds and doesn't spin well
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Old 11-27-2015, 02:36 PM   #12799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carpet Carlos View Post
How are you guys tighten your front axles I replaced bearings and when I tighten it binds and doesn't spin well
Or building I looked at the manual 100 times I'm sure I built it right
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Old 11-27-2015, 07:13 PM   #12800
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Are you using the stock wheels with the one piece front axles? Some wheels use a deeper hex, and will biND if used with the one piece hex axle.
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Old 11-27-2015, 08:33 PM   #12801
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
I run the 3 line axles because the extra stability is awesome. I didnt lose any traction, if anything I felt like I gained some because the car would use the pivot better. I run C-in/C-in as well, and sometimes the rear end would dump over and and I would get loose. With the wider pivot you keep the roll you want but it wouldnt dump over either.
did you every try the flat arms with the longer axles? I'm curious if the longer axles would have numbed the car with those arms.
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Old 11-29-2015, 09:09 AM   #12802
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One final setup.

Car has been really really good lately. Really stable and the best it's probably ever been for me.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...0RB6%20Nov.pdf
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Old 11-29-2015, 09:10 AM   #12803
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did you every try the flat arms with the longer axles? I'm curious if the longer axles would have numbed the car with those arms.
Yeah I did. The flat arms just keep the rear end so flat through the corners I couldn't really get the roll I wanted. If the track is really high bite I could see them working better than the gullwing arms.
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Old 11-30-2015, 09:47 AM   #12804
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@K.King: what's the part number for the 3 line axles you mention? How do you have them shimmed? I have a new 2015B RB6 and I'm wondering which axles it came with. I've recently started using the AVID axles as they let me use different types of wheels but I'm not opposed to trying the 3 line for width adjustments. Have you measured the rear width at the wheels for your setup? Speaking of what wheels do you prefer?

Thanks in Advance!
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Old 11-30-2015, 10:06 AM   #12805
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Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
@K.King: what's the part number for the 3 line axles you mention? How do you have them shimmed? I have a new 2015B RB6 and I'm wondering which axles it came with. I've recently started using the AVID axles as they let me use different types of wheels but I'm not opposed to trying the 3 line for width adjustments. Have you measured the rear width at the wheels for your setup? Speaking of what wheels do you prefer?

Thanks in Advance!
UM510 is the part number. I have it in the notes section as well.

I use the standard thin shim on the inside of the hub and then it's a 1.5 or 2mm external shim between the hub and the hex. LA253GM is the part for that.

When I run Cin and 3 line spaced out the car is right at the legal width or just slightly narrower.

I've always run Kyosho. I don't really trust other wheels with slightly different offsets.
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Old 11-30-2015, 10:19 AM   #12806
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I see this on your sheet King

Sus Holder Spacer

F 0.5 R 0.5 checked
1.0 1.0
none none

do you put a shim under this rear hanger meaning .5 mm shim under the rear

Would you not want this shim in the Front hanger to get Anti-Squat?

also, where does it show to shim your rear arms forward or back or middle. meaning the arms that in the hanger part.

Thank you
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Old 11-30-2015, 10:57 AM   #12807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorman007 View Post
I see this on your sheet King

Sus Holder Spacer

F 0.5 R 0.5 checked
1.0 1.0
none none

do you put a shim under this rear hanger meaning .5 mm shim under the rear

Would you not want this shim in the Front hanger to get Anti-Squat?

also, where does it show to shim your rear arms forward or back or middle. meaning the arms that in the hanger part.

Thank you
The wheelbase section is for both hubs and arms. Follow the lines to either or. It's a bit confusing. I shim my arms forward 2mm and run hubs in the middle.

Anti-Squat is done on the rear pivot because of the angle. The pin is higher on the F holder so you couldn't go lower there unless you made your own pills or holder.

Basically imagine the front pivot is locked and you are moving the rear up to level the pin out. The straighter the hingepin the less Anti Squat you have so you get more sidebite and an overall softer rear end.

I either run .5 on the bottom and .5 on the top or 0 on the bottom and 1mm on the top. I've tried 0 on the bottom and the rear gets really soft and doesn't work like I want it to.

Technically only the bottom shim affects anti squat. The one between the pivot and the rear bulkhead is a bit confusing. You don't really need one there and I was talking to another driver last night about the lack of info on it. I've always assumed that all of the shimming there had to equal 1mm to keep the tower in the same spot. However one could also assume that shim is just like the front pivot shim where it's used to change roll center as well. The thing that bugs me is that moving the entire tower up changes a lot of stuff like shock angle, droop, roll center and CG. I would assume having no shim would be the most aggressive since it's like lowering the ballstud but nobody has ever talked about it.
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Old 11-30-2015, 11:02 AM   #12808
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THANKS K.KING! Always good tips
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Old 11-30-2015, 11:17 AM   #12809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
THANKS K.KING! Always good tips
Thanks King I see the two wheelbase part now.
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Old 12-01-2015, 03:37 AM   #12810
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I would assume having no shim would be the most aggressive since it's like lowering the ballstud but nobody has ever talked about it.


i agree this needs to be addressed more. ive tried both ways and am running with no upper shim to try and get the cg low as possible. it doesnt make a huge difference its a feel thing
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