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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-09-2012, 10:20 AM   #1261
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The way I interpret #2 is opposite of how it is described above. To me, if the caster blocks are mounted in (caster insert holes toward the chassis) I get a narrower track width.
aahh I see what you are saying... if you flip the caster insert over so the hole is towards the inside of the car, the front track is widened by the offset of the hole. This gives more front end stability, and slightly tamer steering. (higher roll center, box setup). If you run the hole on the outside, the track will come in, lowering the roll center, giving you a bit more steering. However, I don't know if the C-hub will rub the arm if running the short setting (is it designed as a tuning option?) Has anybody tried?
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Last edited by Cpt.America; 10-09-2012 at 11:03 AM.
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:25 AM   #1262
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I like how kyosho calls it "in case of midship motor".
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:30 AM   #1263
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Thanks for the feedback guys. I'm learning a lot about offroad 2wd buggies from this thread! I've modified my list by adding and removing items based on the recommendations. So far, the build/setup is going very smoothly. However, I've observed/ran into a few things that didn't go exactly as planned and/or wasn't clear in the manual/setup sheet.

1) Some filing/cutting was required on the underside of the "Front Upper Plate" to ensure it sat flush on top of the "Front Bulkhead". I'm not exactly sure why this piece was molded this way. I'm going to assume that I made the right call in removing this piece.

2) I want to confirm that 'Block position: In' = wider front track width and 'Block position: Out' = narrower front track width.

3) There is play/slop between the suspension bushings and the composite suspension holders. I hope that the alum suspension holders and the delrin bushings takes care of this issue.
You will still have slop in that area if you dont use the optional 3x5x.01, .02 .03mm washers options. I personally like a little bit of slop in that area especially when it comes to the aluminum suspension holders.
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:38 AM   #1264
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The way I interpret #2 is opposite of how it is described above. To me, if the caster blocks are mounted in (caster insert holes toward the chassis) I get a narrower track width.
Nevermind, I take it back, I am wrong. Hole on the outside gives a narrower track width. #2 is correct as written.
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:40 AM   #1265
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Hey guys, had a quick question for you, i was looking through some of the rb6 stuff and it looks like the step 2.0 rear wing is really popular. Then i check the price out and its about $14 for one wing...im a AE guy and usually use the JC wings and get 2 for about $8-10. Are the kyosho wings molded out of a thicker lexan, like the LMR wings? Also, just curious, did any of you used to have a B4.1 that could compare the rb6 to? I just saw my first one run this past weekend and it looked awesome. Thanks!
Hey Matt, I just switched from a B4.1 with BB spring mod to RB6 over the lasdt week so I can give you my first impressions. Out of the box the car has as much if not more on-power and off-power steering as a B4.1, It's still alot more forgiving if you make a mistake then the B4.1 with BB soring mod, parts are readily available except rear arms which I cant find but have been told will be arriving any day now, and the shocks...... I built my brothers AE Big Bores and they are nothing compaired to the Kyosho BB's. As far as wings go, everyone I know who intitially used the Step 2.0 wing moved back to the B44 wing when the Kyosho wing went. They are really not all that durable. The other benefit of the RB6 is that in the long run rebuild of the car minus breakage will be cheaper due to the fact that Kyosho parts last nearly twice as long if not longer as AE parts before a rebuild is needed. I had my B4.1 and 1 1/2 months and had to rebuild the front end twice due to excessive slop. That is where the beauty of this car is, a friend of mine has an SC-R SP who just now rebuilt the diff after running it a hard solid 2 months, and on top of that it really didnt need it all that bad, rings, balls, thrust were all fine as well. Cant get that out of a B4 without needing a B-Fast diff kit.
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:42 AM   #1266
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I like how kyosho calls it "in case of midship motor".
Kinda threatening sounding to mid motor runners... lol. Something got lost in the translation.
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:47 AM   #1267
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Thanks for the reply...I had one of the original RB5's when they first came out about 6 or so years ago. I remember it being fairly durable. It was fairly hard to get parts for back then but with Amain and a few other shops carrying them it shouldnt be too bad nowadays. So they are running the B44 wing, the regular AE one of the JC stuff? I can usually get some pretty good life out of the AE diff, some parts wear though.
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:00 AM   #1268
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So I am looking at Tebo's setup sheet from the supernats... and it LOOKS like he was running NO screws on the chassis side pods. NONE of the three side screws? I am just curious as to if the front most and rear most screws are strong enough to keep the chassis from bending down the middle?

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...2012/setup.pdf
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:01 AM   #1269
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Thanks for the reply...I had one of the original RB5's when they first came out about 6 or so years ago. I remember it being fairly durable. It was fairly hard to get parts for back then but with Amain and a few other shops carrying them it shouldnt be too bad nowadays. So they are running the B44 wing, the regular AE one of the JC stuff? I can usually get some pretty good life out of the AE diff, some parts wear though.
The AE B44 wing. Losi Parts House and speedtechrc are where the parts are around these parts, both OC/RC and West Coast carry a full parts lot for the RB6. Parts supply is in good shape. They cant deny the car since we already have 5 guys running it at OC/RC and West Coast is Kyosho land period. I too had the original RB5 when it came out and went through parts pain with you. Totally different story now.
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:05 AM   #1270
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
So I am looking at Tebo's setup sheet from the supernats... and it LOOKS like he was running NO screws on the chassis side pods. NONE of the three side screws? I am just curious as to if the front most and rear most screws are strong enough to keep the chassis from bending down the middle?

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...2012/setup.pdf
I'm glad someone finally brought up the 'screws' , I noticed this myself when Tebo's sheet was released. I was told no screws allows more flex in the chassis. For now I built mine with all 3 screws in.

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Old 10-09-2012, 11:07 AM   #1271
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
So I am looking at Tebo's setup sheet from the supernats... and it LOOKS like he was running NO screws on the chassis side pods. NONE of the three side screws? I am just curious as to if the front most and rear most screws are strong enough to keep the chassis from bending down the middle?

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...2012/setup.pdf
They are. I tested this last night, I went back to my setup which has them in there. the plastic really sint strong enough in my opinion to totally eliminate flex, maybe taking out 1 on each side to get a tad more flex, but from driving the car I dont see the need for added flex.
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:12 AM   #1272
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They are. I tested this last night, I went back to my setup which has them in there. the plastic really sint strong enough in my opinion to totally eliminate flex, maybe taking out 1 on each side to get a tad more flex, but from driving the car I dont see the need for added flex.
Well that would depend on how much traction you have at your track. More chassis flex = more mechanical grip. Traction was pretty poor at the supernats, so I can see why Tebo was trying to get as much traction as possible.

Did anybody also notice that he is running the SHORT shock ends on the rear of the car... AND a 1mm internal limiter? Man.. he must of been hating off power steering at that track. I wonder what his overall droop was? I think he was running different rear arms?
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:13 AM   #1273
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the chassis was pretty flexible in my hands before i built it, i couldn't imagine needing all of that in any situation.
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:20 AM   #1274
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Originally Posted by fullsyzz View Post
I think the only way you can get away with changing the front track width by flipping the caster inserts is if you use the "0" insert. If you flip the 2 or 4 insert so the hole is on the outside I think it will screw up the caster, but I'm not sure.
For the reasons you've provided, I do not believe that the caster blocks (inserts) are meant to be flipped but rather switched left to right to change the hole position.


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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
aahh I see what you are saying... if you flip the caster insert over so the hole is towards the inside of the car, the front track is widened by the offset of the hole. This gives more front end stability, and slightly tamer steering. (higher roll center, box setup). If you run the hole on the outside, the track will come in, lowering the roll center, giving you a bit more steering. However, I don't know if the C-hub will rub the arm if running the short setting (is it designed as a tuning option?) Has anybody tried?
The Setup Sheet has the 'Block position' as a tuning option. Tebo ran the 'In' position at Nats. It would've been clearer if they just said wider track vs. narrower track position.


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You will still have slop in that area if you dont use the optional 3x5x.01, .02 .03mm washers options. I personally like a little bit of slop in that area especially when it comes to the aluminum suspension holders.
The play/slop I'm experiencing is not due to the insufficient use of spacers/shims on the suspension shaft. I have the appropriate amount of spacers/shims (2.3mm total) to eliminate the back and forth play while achieving free arm movement. The slop is in between the bushing and the hole in the suspension holder. I'm sure the Alum holder matched up with the delrin bushing will take care of this.
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:27 AM   #1275
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Well that would depend on how much traction you have at your track. More chassis flex = more mechanical grip. Traction was pretty poor at the supernats, so I can see why Tebo was trying to get as much traction as possible.

Did anybody also notice that he is running the SHORT shock ends on the rear of the car... AND a 1mm internal limiter? Man.. he must of been hating off power steering at that track. I wonder what his overall droop was? I think he was running different rear arms?
Yes he ran RB5 arms.

While the setup was good for him at the Nats, I think people should go with the box setup and tune from there.
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