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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-08-2012, 11:00 PM   #1246
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Fresh paint for Mdowney
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Old 10-09-2012, 12:18 AM   #1247
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Carbides or tungsten carbides?
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Old 10-09-2012, 01:10 AM   #1248
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I run ceramic thrust and diff balls in all my kyosho diffs (2wd and 4wd) and they work great. No slipping/barking and loosen up well once run in. If you overtighten ceramic filled diffs they will dent the rings and the diff will not last.
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Old 10-09-2012, 01:33 AM   #1249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Wiring is done, paint is tomorrow and Tuesday, testing is Wednesday, Northwest Gold Cup is Fri-Sun. Can't wait.

Are those Lunsford ball studs?
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Old 10-09-2012, 04:15 AM   #1250
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well the RB6 is here, well over there.
wouldn't ya know it came in at no better time than when i happen to be puttn' The Wildfire in it's stage of completion a part is not in its bag nor its box.
so the buggy will be fitted this A.M.

p.s. good read on the diff balls.
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Old 10-09-2012, 05:31 AM   #1251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z00M View Post
I run ceramic thrust and diff balls in all my kyosho diffs (2wd and 4wd) and they work great. No slipping/barking and loosen up well once run in. If you overtighten ceramic filled diffs they will dent the rings and the diff will not last.
What thrust balls are you using as I have only ever used kit
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:20 AM   #1252
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Quote:
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Are those Lunsford ball studs?
ballstuds? Yes.
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:26 AM   #1253
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ballstuds? Yes.
V nice
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:33 AM   #1254
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Thanks for the feedback guys. I'm learning a lot about offroad 2wd buggies from this thread! I've modified my list by adding and removing items based on the recommendations. So far, the build/setup is going very smoothly. However, I've observed/ran into a few things that didn't go exactly as planned and/or wasn't clear in the manual/setup sheet.

1) Some filing/cutting was required on the underside of the "Front Upper Plate" to ensure it sat flush on top of the "Front Bulkhead". I'm not exactly sure why this piece was molded this way. I'm going to assume that I made the right call in removing this piece.

2) I want to confirm that 'Block position: In' = wider front track width and 'Block position: Out' = narrower front track width.

3) There is play/slop between the suspension bushings and the composite suspension holders. I hope that the alum suspension holders and the delrin bushings takes care of this issue.
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:44 AM   #1255
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1) correct

2)i'm looking into that

3)that is interesting as i don't have any slop anywhere. i'd check to make sure they are the correct bushing and if they are and it is an unreasonable amount of play, i would look into using this http://www.speedtechhobbies.com/inde...roduct_id=2126
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Old 10-09-2012, 10:45 AM   #1256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John.C View Post
1) Some filing/cutting was required on the underside of the "Front Upper Plate" to ensure it sat flush on top of the "Front Bulkhead". I'm not exactly sure why this piece was molded this way. I'm going to assume that I made the right call in removing this piece.
Yes! Sorry that wasn't mentioned, I think a lot of us Kyosho builders are just used that huge piece of flashing being there on all the kits. I just shave my off with an ex-acto blade. You made the right decision

Quote:
Originally Posted by John.C View Post
2) I want to confirm that 'Block position: In' = wider front track width and 'Block position: Out' = narrower front track width.
Im not sure what this is referring to, sorry. Ill have to look at the manual and get back to ya. (unless somebody chimes in quicker that knows off hand!)

(edit: what page is this in the manual? I don't see anything about changing front track. I wasn't aware you could, besides shimming/rigging the front axles.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by John.C View Post
3) There is play/slop between the suspension bushings and the composite suspension holders. I hope that the alum suspension holders and the delrin bushings takes care of this issue.
When using the plastic suspension holders, make sure you are running the metal bushings. When running the metal hangers, run the plastic or derlin bushings. I don't recall seeing much play when running the metal hangers, and the white plastic/derlin bushings.
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:00 AM   #1257
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its on the setup sheet
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:02 AM   #1258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John.C View Post
Thanks for the feedback guys. I'm learning a lot about offroad 2wd buggies from this thread! I've modified my list by adding and removing items based on the recommendations. So far, the build/setup is going very smoothly. However, I've observed/ran into a few things that didn't go exactly as planned and/or wasn't clear in the manual/setup sheet.

1) Some filing/cutting was required on the underside of the "Front Upper Plate" to ensure it sat flush on top of the "Front Bulkhead". I'm not exactly sure why this piece was molded this way. I'm going to assume that I made the right call in removing this piece.

2) I want to confirm that 'Block position: In' = wider front track width and 'Block position: Out' = narrower front track width.

3) There is play/slop between the suspension bushings and the composite suspension holders. I hope that the alum suspension holders and the delrin bushings takes care of this issue.
The way I interpret #2 is opposite of how it is described above. To me, if the caster blocks are mounted in (caster insert holes toward the chassis) I get a narrower track width.
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:02 AM   #1259
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Hey guys, had a quick question for you, i was looking through some of the rb6 stuff and it looks like the step 2.0 rear wing is really popular. Then i check the price out and its about $14 for one wing...im a AE guy and usually use the JC wings and get 2 for about $8-10. Are the kyosho wings molded out of a thicker lexan, like the LMR wings? Also, just curious, did any of you used to have a B4.1 that could compare the rb6 to? I just saw my first one run this past weekend and it looked awesome. Thanks!
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Old 10-09-2012, 11:05 AM   #1260
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I think the only way you can get away with changing the front track width by flipping the caster inserts is if you use the "0" insert. If you flip the 2 or 4 insert so the hole is on the outside I think it will screw up the caster, but I'm not sure.
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