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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-20-2015, 11:22 AM   #12571
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rfury View Post
I would like to see an official chassis for mounting the shorty sideways. I am too lazy/scared to grind mine down. lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by likea45 View Post
There is a good conversion kit out as well. Remember you will also need a new gear cover as the kit one is the wrong orientation. A few people make them.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobsRacin View Post
Got the email that my 3 gear kit and cover shipped today, looking forward to trying it. From what I have found with the B5 series is that the 4 gear is preferred for mod as the motor rotation helps with moving the rear end down for more traction. With that said I probably wont even try it in my mod car and wait to put it in the 17.5 car im building up
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Brown View Post
No. When you run the 3 gear transmission, the motor is flipped and works in the regular rotation. The 3 gear transmission keeps the car flatter through the turns and is more responsive when jumping. It's a tuning aid, not a necessity.
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Originally Posted by LIVipers View Post
In the northeast, a large portion of people running the RB6 do so with a sideways battery. I have found the car a lot easier to rip on with the battery sideways. Sure, a few small changes are needed in order for the car to work at its full potential, but it isn't anything that's over the top. Again, each person is entitled to their opinion and what best suits their driving style.

As far as the rear hangars go, chances are they were a 1-off setup piece because of the unusual surface on which they were racing. Also, taking into consideration the fact Tebo wasn't even running a commercially available car, it's hard to make the claim that the suspension pivots were for the sideways battery vs the fact they were racing on a living room rug lol
About the chassis ... Has anybody tried a graphite/cf like xfactors style?

On the 3-gear setup ... Who makes the diffcase and other parts, kits?
is it a lcg/laydown or just regular style?

Tebo's Worlds car pretty much looked like a ZX6 design ... wasn't there a tidbit about Kyosho coming out with a new car like RX6 or something?
I cant find the flash that I thought I saw?

We've got a carpet track here in Manhattan Kansas now and a few guys have the lcg tranny in their b5m and say it does seem help a little.

Thanx for any and all help or comments!
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Old 10-21-2015, 07:54 PM   #12572
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As much as I hate building turnbuckles, these were actually pretty easy. Tamiya's fit, finish, and manuals are far better in my opinion but it's fun to be building another car regardless. Looking forward to getting it on track.

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Old 10-22-2015, 03:12 AM   #12573
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well last sunday at a trophy race between rd 2 and what ended up being the mains i built a three gear tranny for my new 17.5 buggy expecting the three gear to be way faster and feel very different. well it wasnt much faster and the car felt much the same.so all u guys out there running the 4 gear dont think that the 3 gear is going to change your buggy all that much. it helps the car pull the nose up when jumping and seems to break a bit more consistently for me anyway.just glad i had all the parts retty much laying around and a few that were given t me by a god freind. anyway thats my opinion maybe its different in mod but not in 17.5 and not for me. altough will be leaving it in the car cause it was a lt f work getting it ready between rds
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Old 10-22-2015, 04:49 PM   #12574
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What is the consensus on battery layout for mid-motor? I have stick, shorty, and saddle packs. I've seen a few different layouts here with shorties pushed forward a bit with the ESC mounted between the battery and motor which looks great for wiring but I dont know what it does to the handling of the vehicle. It looks like the manual shows a similar layout with saddle packs (ESC between the battery and motor); is that the way to go?
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Old 10-22-2015, 05:58 PM   #12575
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You'll get different answers from different people. It also depends on your driving style and track conditions. To say there's one magic layout would just start an argument. Your best bet is to get some track time with different layouts and decide which one works best for you.
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Old 10-22-2015, 08:54 PM   #12576
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Just cant find a config I actually like layout wise. Performance is the ultimate goal but damn, I really dont want to run wires from the front all the way back to the motor but I just dont see any other viable option when it comes to weight balance.

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Old 10-22-2015, 09:14 PM   #12577
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madweazl View Post
Just cant find a config I actually like layout wise. Performance is the ultimate goal but damn, I really dont want to run wires from the front all the way back to the motor but I just dont see any other viable option when it comes to weight balance.

Try the Zak Roger's setup with your current battery configuration, it should be pretty damn good. From there you can mess with battery positioning and tweak the setup as needed....

I just switched to a 3 gear tranny and gear diff and am struggling a bit to get the rear to hook up but gawd dammm does it steer now lol. Gonna try the 3 gear with a ball diff to see if the issues I'm experiencing is gear diff related.... still, all in all the best driving rc I've owned to date...
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Old 10-23-2015, 10:14 AM   #12578
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has anyone used the JC finisher in MM?
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Old 10-23-2015, 02:51 PM   #12579
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has anyone used the JC finisher in MM?
Yes, put one on my RB6 a few weeks ago. Plenty of space inside, the only thing is routing the wires out to the motor required a little more cutting away of the back right than they intend. The body fits well and covers more of the back than the stock Kyosho body does.
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Old 10-23-2015, 03:08 PM   #12580
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Screwed up ordering the JC B4.1 wheels; hopefully the LHS has some yellow Kyosho wheels. Almost got it wrapped up though; gotta grab some more wire and send the bodies down to Larry at KustomRCGraphics to get sprayed.

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Old 10-23-2015, 05:20 PM   #12581
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I used the JC B4.1 wheels as well. The fronts bound up when tightened. The hex hub seems deeper than the Kyosho rims. I ended up filing the front knuckle down about 1mm. The bearing sticks out of the knuckle that 1mm, but no binding anymore.

Other than that, no issues. I thought of dremeling the wheels, but to do that with every set would b too much work. Now they can bol right on.
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Old 10-23-2015, 05:29 PM   #12582
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Originally Posted by dmcguire View Post
I used the JC B4.1 wheels as well. The fronts bound up when tightened. The hex hub seems deeper than the Kyosho rims. I ended up filing the front knuckle down about 1mm. The bearing sticks out of the knuckle that 1mm, but no binding anymore.

Other than that, no issues. I thought of dremeling the wheels, but to do that with every set would b too much work. Now they can bol right on.
I'm going to try swapping the conical washer to the outside of the axle; not sure if this will take the track width outside the legal limit or not though.
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Old 10-23-2015, 09:59 PM   #12583
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that changes handling just relieve the inside f the rim
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Old 10-23-2015, 10:17 PM   #12584
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Quote:
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that changes handling just relieve the inside f the rim
Track width is a pretty minor change to handling; I'd much rather get a wheel with the right offset. I'll give up a five dollar set of wheels over a $15 set of tires.
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Old 10-25-2015, 03:42 AM   #12585
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yeah but im ocd with my set up stuff. there are other wheels out there that hit the axle carrier and are made for the rb6 so i just use an exacto and relieve the edges of the hex. seems to work fine i been doing it for years
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