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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-12-2015, 10:32 AM   #12526
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Black grease on the pucks, but really never had to even replace my pucks after an entire season. A few have had issues but none around here!
Anyone else had experience with the pucks? I used them on my TLR 22SCT with a 13.5 and the pucks wore out super fast. Thinking of trying them on my RB6 with a boosted 17.5. Black grease on the orange puck works?
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Old 10-12-2015, 02:15 PM   #12527
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Anyone else had experience with the pucks? I used them on my TLR 22SCT with a 13.5 and the pucks wore out super fast. Thinking of trying them on my RB6 with a boosted 17.5. Black grease on the orange puck works?
I use black grease on the stock components and they have lasted a lot longer then if they were not covered in it. I don't see why it wouldn't work with pucks.
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Old 10-12-2015, 02:27 PM   #12528
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I've been putting just a touch of silicone diff grease on them. Pucks are so cheap and easy to replace I don't bother giving them much service. My setup was all used when I got it and I know I have over 200 runs on them. Only replaced them twice. The end at the axle still looks great. Outdrives still look great. I'm certain the pucks reduce wear in other components. Takes the metal to metal shock out of it.

Kiddo is running 17.5 with his RB6 now and I'm thinking of trying the all aluminum setup. He's not super smooth just yet and still puts it in the pipe some times so I may just stick with the steel for now.
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Old 10-12-2015, 04:52 PM   #12529
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Did you space the top of the shocks back the same amount to keep them in the same position?
actually i had a set of red aluminum exotek shock mounts from someone that i wont run because i dont run aluminum on aluminum. so i cut them with a cut off wheel and used the nut.they are wider and i liked the red for this buggy. also i hve these black plastic shock mounts from the rb5 that have a built in 2mm spacer that i like to use. with this the shock i at a straight up and down angle
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Old 10-12-2015, 11:02 PM   #12530
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Anyone else had experience with the pucks? I used them on my TLR 22SCT with a 13.5 and the pucks wore out super fast. Thinking of trying them on my RB6 with a boosted 17.5. Black grease on the orange puck works?
I recently went with the entire MIP kit for the RB6 including the dif and I've been pretty impressed with it thus far. Black greased the snot out of the pucks and reapply it after every race day. I've talked to a few guys that do this maintenance regularly and have driven over a year on the same pucks still with virtually no wear to the out drives. Seems good to me.
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Old 10-13-2015, 07:39 AM   #12531
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Where is a good place to get a lcg/lay Down tranny case
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Old 10-13-2015, 10:03 AM   #12532
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Where is a good place to get a lcg/lay Down tranny case
I dont know of anybody making them. I believe it was a 1 off prototype from kyosho for the worlds
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Old 10-13-2015, 12:12 PM   #12533
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Where is a good place to get a lcg/lay Down tranny case
https://www.facebook.com/redworkshopracing?fref=ts
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Old 10-13-2015, 03:20 PM   #12534
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Anyone ever tried zero antisquat?
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Old 10-13-2015, 03:40 PM   #12535
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This is the battery brace and chassis stiffener developed with Tanner Day and Thomas Tran. It allows you to mill down your chassis to run a shorty sideways without making the chassis to weak.



This is a shorter version on the lay down tranny RB6.

Is this in reference to the new 2015 chassis? I have the older chassis and was told it was okay to mill down the sides of it and it will be ok. I'm thinking I want to do the same when I get the new car built but know I will need a stiffener at that point.
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Old 10-13-2015, 04:00 PM   #12536
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if anyone is interested i build my 17.5 car last week and i mounted the rear shock tower using 4, 2mm spacers to move the tower forward so that i could change the inner ballstud height. (losi allen driven ballstuds) this mod makes it so u do not need t disassemble the entire rear of the car to make a change. i also used 4, 2mm spacers to space the wing mount back so that its in its original position because i would be farther forward with the tower spaced forward. it held up fine and did not change the handling of the car much if at all. i dont find that i move that ballstud location often but i do like to be able to have that option open tome and anything that makes the car easier to tune is a upgrade in my opinion. hope everyone is loving their rb 6 as much as myself and good luck to all the red samurai drvers out there
I am interested in seeing this? can you post pics?
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Old 10-13-2015, 04:25 PM   #12537
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Originally Posted by MrLean View Post
Anyone else had experience with the pucks? I used them on my TLR 22SCT with a 13.5 and the pucks wore out super fast. Thinking of trying them on my RB6 with a boosted 17.5. Black grease on the orange puck works?

Pucks aren't made for 13.5 motors, specifically states 17.5
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Old 10-13-2015, 04:36 PM   #12538
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Pucks aren't made for 13.5 motors, specifically states 17.5
17.5 aluminum pucks system are for 17.5 motors.

Shiny pucks system are steel and for everything else.
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Old 10-13-2015, 05:26 PM   #12539
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17.5 aluminum pucks system are for 17.5 motors.

Shiny pucks system are steel and for everything else.
Yep, I'm just talking about the orange part...obv need diff dogbones for mod motors. I got like 2 race days before the orange wore out of my brand new system, I ended up tearing up the out drive because I didn't notice the puck worn out already. It went metal on metal
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Old 10-13-2015, 08:47 PM   #12540
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Originally Posted by LiL CeeZ View Post
Pucks aren't made for 13.5 motors, specifically states 17.5
Quote:
Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
17.5 aluminum pucks system are for 17.5 motors.

Shiny pucks system are steel and for everything else.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrLean View Post
Yep, I'm just talking about the orange part...obv need diff dogbones for mod motors. I got like 2 race days before the orange wore out of my brand new system, I ended up tearing up the out drive because I didn't notice the puck worn out already. It went metal on metal
I run full puck system on my RB6 17.5 stock setup and ran them on my previous SCR-SP with 10.5 mod and boosted setup. The RB6 works great and with little maintenance last a very long time before having to change out the orange pucks. On my SC truck with 10.5 mod motor, I was replacing orange pucks every 3rd race at best. You have to keep an eye on them at all times. No matter what you run them on. Soon as you see a bit of play between the orange puck and outdrive cup, you need to replace pucks. If not it will take very little for the small screws holding the pucks on to start wearing the aluminum outdrive cups.

MIP just released a new shinny puck system. I just got them a few days ago. Not sure if they have even advertised it yet. But it is made for mod setups. It uses their metal shinny setup but uses a softer metal round puck that rides in the drive cups. Suppose to last 10 times longer than the orange pucks do. I installed into my new SC6 truck with 10.5 mod motor. Looks awesome.

Like everyone had mentioned, you need to run grease on the pucks. Even these new metal ones.
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