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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-01-2015, 03:36 AM   #12481
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RB6 ALUMINUM REAR UPPER BULKHEAD Ver.2 for MID MOTOR (RED)

http://tresrey.com/yaiba/products/YRG093_eng.html

do u kjnow if the ballstud height is the same as the stock. may be an option im interested in. its a nice looking peice. also u know the weight difference?
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Old 10-01-2015, 04:01 AM   #12482
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I'm considering building a 3 gear trans. I'm wondering which side to put the motor on. Which motor position aids rear traction?
The motor side doesn't matter as far as rear traction goes. To change rear traction (and give up a bit of on power traction/steering) the motor rotation relative to the car needs to be changed, that's what a 4 gear trans does differently compared to a 3 gear.
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Old 10-01-2015, 08:21 AM   #12483
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The motor side doesn't matter as far as rear traction goes. To change rear traction (and give up a bit of on power traction/steering) the motor rotation relative to the car needs to be changed, that's what a 4 gear trans does differently compared to a 3 gear.
I suppose you are correct. So, why bother building the trans the hard way? Looking at the case halves side by side, it seems like you can simply build it rear motor, flip it and install. Change motor wires, done. Why all of the custom work?
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Old 10-01-2015, 08:30 AM   #12484
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Originally Posted by scoobyrs25 View Post
I suppose you are correct. So, why bother building the trans the hard way? Looking at the case halves side by side, it seems like you can simply build it rear motor, flip it and install. Change motor wires, done. Why all of the custom work?
You would need a motor that had enough adjustment to retard the timing so it would be advanced timing when running backwards. I'm still not sure it's that simple but maybe.
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Old 10-01-2015, 09:22 AM   #12485
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Yes, reworking the 3 gear to keep the pinion and spur on the right side avoids needing to deal with a reversed motor setup. Difficulty of a reverse motor depends mostly on the speed control used, but it would be nice to avoid the issue if possible/practical.
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Old 10-01-2015, 09:59 AM   #12486
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You would need a motor that had enough adjustment to retard the timing so it would be advanced timing when running backwards. I'm still not sure it's that simple but maybe.
And most of the timing boost + turbo is not available on a reverse software setup.
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Old 10-01-2015, 10:40 AM   #12487
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You would need a motor that had enough adjustment to retard the timing so it would be advanced timing when running backwards. I'm still not sure it's that simple but maybe.
Or an ESC that will allow you to reverse motor direction in the programming...
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Old 10-01-2015, 11:13 AM   #12488
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So, as long as I can twist the endbell of the motor equally in both directions, swapping two wires on the motor solves it.

That said, which motor direction is advantageous for rear traction?
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Old 10-01-2015, 11:23 AM   #12489
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Originally Posted by scoobyrs25 View Post
So, as long as I can twist the endbell of the motor equally in both directions, swapping two wires on the motor solves it.

That said, which motor direction is advantageous for rear traction?
Pinion and spur on the drivers side, or left side. Motor torques the chassis to the rear.

If your fighting for rear traction really bad then try rear motor setup.
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Old 10-01-2015, 11:35 AM   #12490
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What's a good base setup on a loose dirt track?
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Old 10-01-2015, 12:05 PM   #12491
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobyrs25 View Post
So, as long as I can twist the endbell of the motor equally in both directions, swapping two wires on the motor solves it.

That said, which motor direction is advantageous for rear traction?
The motor has to spin the same way as rear wheels, as in a 4-gear setup.
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Old 10-01-2015, 03:08 PM   #12492
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Originally Posted by scoobyrs25 View Post
So, as long as I can twist the endbell of the motor equally in both directions, swapping two wires on the motor solves it.

That said, which motor direction is advantageous for rear traction?
Only switch wires is it's a unsensored setup. With sensored systems the A-A, B-B, C-C wiring must be maintained.
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Old 10-01-2015, 09:20 PM   #12493
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Only switch wires is it's a unsensored setup. With sensored systems the A-A, B-B, C-C wiring must be maintained.
Well that settles that. Ever since doing the Zack Rogers setup, I really have had no issues of any kind. I used to have tons of rear grip issues before. I would like to see it actually wheelie. My ZX6 has been so fun, I haven't spent much time with the RB.
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Old 10-01-2015, 10:23 PM   #12494
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Has anyone used the MIP 17.5 pucks dif and out drives in the RB6? If so was it worth it? Did you notice smoother acceleration and braking as it claims?
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Old 10-02-2015, 05:52 AM   #12495
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Seeing some very interesting pics popping up from the Worlds,

Lay down tranny, new chassis, rear hubs, and a few other tidbits.
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