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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 09-26-2015, 10:24 PM   #12466
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Won my main tonight finally lol. I get so damn nervous..

Can't wait to get this 3 gear tranny installed soon. Also if you guys haven't seen this yet you might be interested..

https://www.facebook.com/chris.bush....2%3A%22O%22%7D

and this..

http://shop.cbscustomrc.com/


I'm ordering a set tonight and putting together my tranny with them and the pucks. Should be accelerating like the big boys very soon
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Old 09-28-2015, 07:43 AM   #12467
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobsRacin View Post
Finally installed the brass rear front hanger on the car and love it. Car had the forward bite I needed and now I can dial some more steering into it. Very happy with
Did u have it mid motor with the battery inline or something different ? thanks
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Old 09-29-2015, 10:03 AM   #12468
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So has anyone come up with a trick to access the rear inner ballstuds when in MM configuration for easy adjustments without having to take the entire rear end off?

I already switched to TLR ballstuds (rather than paying so much for the Lunsford Ti ones) with a 2mm hex thinking I could reach with a hex wrench....but no luck. I am considering attempting to drill a hole down through the shock tower on either side to be able to slide a wrench down it, but I'm not sure there's enough material on the shock tower to avoid weakening it too much.
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Old 09-29-2015, 04:41 PM   #12469
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im also interested to see what ideas people have for getting to those little bastards. they are a real pain. i should at least sit here and look at the car and see if i can come up w an idea
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Old 09-29-2015, 04:44 PM   #12470
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maybe if we shim the tower 1mm farther forward the allen drive ballstuds would workout
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Old 09-29-2015, 05:20 PM   #12471
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To get to the ball studs in MM on the rear bulkhead you could try to open up the holes in the ball cups of you have the lunsfords or put a bigger hole in the stock ball cups and try a 2mm ball end driver. It might be doable to get to them easier that way. Most often I haven't had a need to change the settings on that ball stud at all.
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Old 09-29-2015, 06:26 PM   #12472
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its doable but its a pain in the ass. i havent had to change that much either but i would like to try a change there and i just know its not easy. also if you run turf its a change u will need to make. i ran my dirt car on turf once but because of this obsticle i opted for 2 cars. one for each surface
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Old 09-29-2015, 08:44 PM   #12473
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RB6 ALUMINUM REAR UPPER BULKHEAD Ver.2 for MID MOTOR (RED)

http://tresrey.com/yaiba/products/YRG093_eng.html
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-yrg093_01s.jpg   Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-yrg093_08.jpg  
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Old 09-29-2015, 09:38 PM   #12474
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
If your car setup and driving are on point with everyone else and you're still getting beat the. There's at least one other thing those guys are probably doing that you may not be. And that's a pretty touchy subject with most so I'll leave it there.
Not to stir a subject you believe is a touchy one and wondering what it may be I have to ask. Would you be talking about the current trend of folks racing in 17.5 to ramp up their charging amps to nearly 40? It is seriously getting to the point where racing in mod is becoming the more attractive option for both sanity's sake and the pocket book.
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Old 09-29-2015, 10:59 PM   #12475
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Originally Posted by Fasttrak View Post
Not to stir a subject you believe is a touchy one and wondering what it may be I have to ask. Would you be talking about the current trend of folks racing in 17.5 to ramp up their charging amps to nearly 40? It is seriously getting to the point where racing in mod is becoming the more attractive option for both sanity's sake and the pocket book.
Yes that would be the subject,
There's a lot of opinions and what not out there on it. While not a huge fan of it, I have done the 30-35a charging and there is something to it, is it good for the barreries or general safety? It could depend on who is asked. The newest gens of LiPo batteries can easily take much higher charge rates than those of just a few years ago. Seems like every new gen of battery is better in that regard. So much so, that a few companies are bringing out HV rated batteries. If you are trying to be at the very top of stock racing, it's one thing you'll likely have to consider doing, as any little advantage could be the difference. Most likely won't go that far, but there are enough that probably do simply because they have heard or seen it done. Kind of monkey see monkey do.

I can't say for sure it's bad for the life span of the batteries to use charge at high amp rates, opinions say yes and no. I have t seen much degrading of the batteries that I was doing that on, but depending on the relative grade of the LiPo used it might not be a big issue or it could be.

Safety wise, there's always an issue when charging at any amp rate. Things happen. At high rates I'd probably be a little more concerned that things are right before hand to the best of my abilities. Won't stop bad things from happening, but might give some piece of mind. Caution should always be used.

I think the more important part is the discharge side, and then keeping the pack warm when recharging as that could help,lower the ir of the pack to give an advantage.
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Old 09-29-2015, 11:22 PM   #12476
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
Yes that would be the subject,
There's a lot of opinions and what not out there on it. While not a huge fan of it, I have done the 30-35a charging and there is something to it, is it good for the barreries or general safety? It could depend on who is asked. The newest gens of LiPo batteries can easily take much higher charge rates than those of just a few years ago. Seems like every new gen of battery is better in that regard. So much so, that a few companies are bringing out HV rated batteries. If you are trying to be at the very top of stock racing, it's one thing you'll likely have to consider doing, as any little advantage could be the difference. Most likely won't go that far, but there are enough that probably do simply because they have heard or seen it done. Kind of monkey see monkey do.

I can't say for sure it's bad for the life span of the batteries to use charge at high amp rates, opinions say yes and no. I have t seen much degrading of the batteries that I was doing that on, but depending on the relative grade of the LiPo used it might not be a big issue or it could be.

Safety wise, there's always an issue when charging at any amp rate. Things happen. At high rates I'd probably be a little more concerned that things are right before hand to the best of my abilities. Won't stop bad things from happening, but might give some piece of mind. Caution should always be used.

I think the more important part is the discharge side, and then keeping the pack warm when recharging as that could help,lower the ir of the pack to give an advantage.
I appreciate the honest comments, was fairly certain this is what you were referring too but wanted to be sure. Only having returned to the hobby a couple months ago the very first day back to the track it was one of the bits of advice offered to me by one of the racers. Having tons of experience with lipos in helicopters and planes I am pretty comfortable with my practices of charging\discharging but would never put that high of a charge rate through my packs. If I ever get smooth enough with the buggy I need more speed, I might consider it though
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Old 09-30-2015, 12:40 AM   #12477
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Originally Posted by Fasttrak View Post
I appreciate the honest comments, was fairly certain this is what you were referring too but wanted to be sure. Only having returned to the hobby a couple months ago the very first day back to the track it was one of the bits of advice offered to me by one of the racers. Having tons of experience with lipos in helicopters and planes I am pretty comfortable with my practices of charging\discharging but would never put that high of a charge rate through my packs. If I ever get smooth enough with the buggy I need more speed, I might consider it though
It's all good,
If you're fairly well versed from the heli side of LiPos, you'd probably be ok. Most new LiPos out now can handle a 10-15a charge rate from what I've seen. So charging at a 2c rate should be doable without too much trouble if you'd like to do that. Dirt oval,guys have been doing the high charge rates for a while and they seem to have something figured out. I saw a vid from right after the on road Nats where they took the same car, same driver, same track, and only charged the charging amps (1c, 5-6a, and a 40a rate) and found some interesting results.

If unsure, don't do it, and if your fairly comfortable with the thought, use caution and keep an eye on your stuff
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Old 09-30-2015, 05:54 AM   #12478
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Originally Posted by [email protected]$0nB View Post
RB6 ALUMINUM REAR UPPER BULKHEAD Ver.2 for MID MOTOR (RED)

http://tresrey.com/yaiba/products/YRG093_eng.html
Perfect.....now where do I get it in the USA?
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Old 09-30-2015, 06:06 PM   #12479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
It's all good,
If you're fairly well versed from the heli side of LiPos, you'd probably be ok. Most new LiPos out now can handle a 10-15a charge rate from what I've seen. So charging at a 2c rate should be doable without too much trouble if you'd like to do that. Dirt oval,guys have been doing the high charge rates for a while and they seem to have something figured out. I saw a vid from right after the on road Nats where they took the same car, same driver, same track, and only charged the charging amps (1c, 5-6a, and a 40a rate) and found some interesting results.

If unsure, don't do it, and if your fairly comfortable with the thought, use caution and keep an eye on your stuff
Not to hijack the thread into conversations about batteries but I have been charging at 30A for quite a few months now. I have been testing this using my iCharger Duo308 and I always balance charge. Not balancing seems to cause the most trouble. My batteries don't get hot, they get slightly warm. I have tested somewhat lower rates like 20 and 25 amp and I haven't noticed much difference. I need to do more testing.
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Old 09-30-2015, 07:58 PM   #12480
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I'm considering building a 3 gear trans. I'm wondering which side to put the motor on. Which motor position aids rear traction?
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