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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 09-20-2015, 01:35 PM   #12451
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
Yes there is,
I just ordered a bunch of parts sets and covers from the guy. Ordered for a few locals that want to do the 3gear setup but don't want to do any cutting/dremeling like I did for mine. Looks good and the guy is a pretty cool dude. Should make it much easier for anyone wanting to go that route to basically just build and bolt in.
Thx to you and paolo for the responses you guys are great cheers!

I will get the schelle bearings for the tranny and abide by what you said. Also what I meant by not having one for sale was a "complete" tranny where I could just unbolt my tranny and bolt theirs in, no modding of mine. How difficult is his to install with having to mod your own tranny case?
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Old 09-20-2015, 02:02 PM   #12452
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Great info Tefuel!!
Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome
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Old 09-20-2015, 02:10 PM   #12453
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Originally Posted by LiL CeeZ View Post
Thx to you and paolo for the responses you guys are great cheers!

I will get the schelle bearings for the tranny and abide by what you said. Also what I meant by not having one for sale was a "complete" tranny where I could just unbolt my tranny and bolt theirs in, no modding of mine. How difficult is his to install with having to mod your own tranny case?
You're welcome

I get ya about the complete tranny option. I wish MIP would have done up a 3 gear tranny like they did for the B5m.

The guy I got parts from says the cases don't have to be modded at all and includes the longer screws so you don't have to. I'll know for sure once they get in as I got a spare set to do a proper build up with all the goodies for stock.
When I did mine, I basically followed the mod pics that were posted up on the petitrc site. Wasn't hard to do, but some might not like the dremeling of the case, which I totally understand. It's not as east as just bolt and go, but wasn't too difficult either. Once the tranny is built it bolts right in the chassis and no other mods are needed.
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Old 09-20-2015, 04:19 PM   #12454
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
You're welcome

I get ya about the complete tranny option. I wish MIP would have done up a 3 gear tranny like they did for the B5m.

The guy I got parts from says the cases don't have to be modded at all and includes the longer screws so you don't have to. I'll know for sure once they get in as I got a spare set to do a proper build up with all the goodies for stock.
When I did mine, I basically followed the mod pics that were posted up on the petitrc site. Wasn't hard to do, but some might not like the dremeling of the case, which I totally understand. It's not as east as just bolt and go, but wasn't too difficult either. Once the tranny is built it bolts right in the chassis and no other mods are needed.

Does the motor mount up backwards/opposite side afterwards?

Just got done talking to one of the local racers who also runs an RB6 at my track and he has the 3 gear in his car and has built quite a few of them I guess, said he would make me one complete with schelle topshaft, ceramics and MIP complete puck kit. Think I'm on the right path now, will update you in a couple weeks (I'm going out of town for work otherwise this would be in and done by this weekend) once I get this in and get a night of racing under my belt with it.

Biggest issue for me is being able to chase the tighter lines. I'll further elaborate. We have a set of doubles right after a turn. The guys who have their trannies worked can cut the inside line and with little room to the top of the lip clear the double because they can accelerate rapidly. I on the other hand need a bit of room to get a head of steam to be able to clear the double so I have to take the slower line and go outside. Over 15 laps this ads up. So my line choice is based off of what my car is capable of doing and not the fastest which is why I was asking about lightening up the rotational mass.

I've also messed with my gearing quite a bit already and temped my motor as well to make sure that it's kosher. I don't need a bigger motor, I just need to be able accelerate faster.

Again thanks guys for the answers, can't wait to see what happens next
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Old 09-20-2015, 04:33 PM   #12455
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This advice is 20 years old but I'm certain it's still good.

Gear for the longest straightaway.
If your not wound out and still accelerating before you hit the brakes your geared too tall and sacrificing acceleration out of the hole.
Sometimes sacrificing top end speed for bottom end punch is well worth it on tight tracks.
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Old 09-20-2015, 07:22 PM   #12456
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Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
This advice is 20 years old but I'm certain it's still good.

Gear for the longest straightaway.
If your not wound out and still accelerating before you hit the brakes your geared too tall and sacrificing acceleration out of the hole.
Sometimes sacrificing top end speed for bottom end punch is well worth it on tight tracks.
Still a good rule of thumb,
I think some will look for full top end about 2/3 of the straight. Lap times will tell ya for sure
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Old 09-20-2015, 07:27 PM   #12457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiL CeeZ View Post
Does the motor mount up backwards/opposite side afterwards?

Just got done talking to one of the local racers who also runs an RB6 at my track and he has the 3 gear in his car and has built quite a few of them I guess, said he would make me one complete with schelle topshaft, ceramics and MIP complete puck kit. Think I'm on the right path now, will update you in a couple weeks (I'm going out of town for work otherwise this would be in and done by this weekend) once I get this in and get a night of racing under my belt with it.

Biggest issue for me is being able to chase the tighter lines. I'll further elaborate. We have a set of doubles right after a turn. The guys who have their trannies worked can cut the inside line and with little room to the top of the lip clear the double because they can accelerate rapidly. I on the other hand need a bit of room to get a head of steam to be able to clear the double so I have to take the slower line and go outside. Over 15 laps this ads up. So my line choice is based off of what my car is capable of doing and not the fastest which is why I was asking about lightening up the rotational mass.

I've also messed with my gearing quite a bit already and temped my motor as well to make sure that it's kosher. I don't need a bigger motor, I just need to be able accelerate faster.

Again thanks guys for the answers, can't wait to see what happens next
Yes the end result will put the motor on the opposite side of the car fro the 4 gear setup. The car will drive a bit different than you may be used to.
I'd guess if you can't clear the tight line double like others do. I'd drop,one tooth on the pinion and see if that helps. thenbetter bully tranny you're having built should help in that department.
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Old 09-21-2015, 06:25 PM   #12458
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Hey guys just bought my first 1/10 2WD. Currently run nitro truggy, buggy and E-buggy but wanted a change.

Couple minor questions.. 1.) Can I use stock Kyosho axles with Pro-line wheels F/R?
2.) Trying to find a base set up. Track is outdoor, Med-low bite, blue grove at times. Somewhat bumpy as buggies and truggys tear it up good.
Big fan of Tebos set ups for 8th scale but didn't see anything that looked like it would work for my track.

Looking for some help!
Thanks guys
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Old 09-22-2015, 03:27 PM   #12459
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Why can't you flip a stock diff ring?
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Old 09-22-2015, 03:39 PM   #12460
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Nevermind. Found it. My first build on a stock diff and never read that part of the manual. Turns out it was put together backwards before I bought it so I guess I can flip em'!

Is everyone running the MIP diff gear or the white one?
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Old 09-23-2015, 12:35 AM   #12461
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Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
Nevermind. Found it. My first build on a stock diff and never read that part of the manual. Turns out it was put together backwards before I bought it so I guess I can flip em'!

Is everyone running the MIP diff gear or the white one?
I have both,
Either one is fine, MIP one is probably a little lighter out drive wise
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Old 09-24-2015, 01:10 PM   #12462
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Old 09-24-2015, 02:09 PM   #12463
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Default exotek hinge pin holders

Does anyone know if the exotek hinge pin holders accept kyosho inserts to adjust toe???
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Old 09-24-2015, 08:00 PM   #12464
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Does anyone know if the exotek hinge pin holders accept kyosho inserts to adjust toe???
That's a negative,
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Old 09-26-2015, 08:44 PM   #12465
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Finally installed the brass rear front hanger on the car and love it. Car had the forward bite I needed and now I can dial some more steering into it. Very happy with
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