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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 09-16-2015, 05:25 PM   #12436
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Are the waterfall fans for sale to the public?
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Old 09-16-2015, 05:40 PM   #12437
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Are the waterfall fans for sale to the public?
Not as of yet, this one is a prototype and will get tested this weekend.

One for the TLR22 is also in the works and will be tested this weekend too.

The final will be produced with ABS
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Old 09-17-2015, 03:45 AM   #12438
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Sounds good, great idea.
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Old 09-18-2015, 03:14 AM   #12439
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ive mounted a fan on the stock waterfall but remember that not all bodies leave room there for a fan. just saying
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Old 09-20-2015, 01:30 AM   #12440
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Need help with my tranny. Ran great tonight and made the A-Main but in the main got stomped on. Guys with stock motors pulling wheelies. Asked around after the race and it's because of the lightened axles and barely any weight/rotating mass and tranny builds.

My main concern now is building my tranny like these guys and getting it lightened up as much as possible so I can get the car as snappy as theirs. What's my best course of action here guys?
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Old 09-20-2015, 09:16 AM   #12441
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3 gear transmission.
Aluminum lightweight pinion gears.
Schelle or Avid slipper system is lighter.
MIP 17.5 aluminum pucks and diff unit are lighter.
Remove all unexposed bearing seals. (This will require you to FREQUENTLY check all the bearings though.)
Be very meticulous cleaning and oiling bearings.
Spring for the megabucks ceramic bearings. (I personally wouldn't.)
You can shave the transmission gear width for less friction. (I'd inspect that weekly along with the bearings)
After that there's always spots you can drill out to save weight. There's room to drill out the spur gear among other things...
It is possible to get the weight way under legal weight. If you track isn't weighing cars in 17.5 class I guarantee there is some underweight.
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Old 09-20-2015, 09:53 AM   #12442
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I forgot slipper eliminator to shave even more weight.
I'm sure there's more.
Dialing in the turbo and timing is what scares me about blinky class.
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Old 09-20-2015, 12:38 PM   #12443
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Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
I forgot slipper eliminator to shave even more weight.
I'm sure there's more.
Dialing in the turbo and timing is what scares me about blinky class.
No turbo or timing in blinky, so I'm not sure what you'd be dialing in there other than motor timing on the motor
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Old 09-20-2015, 12:51 PM   #12444
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No turbo or timing in blinky, so I'm not sure what you'd be dialing in there other than motor timing on the motor
I thought that stuff was for blinky??
Shows what I know.
I've only run mod.
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Old 09-20-2015, 01:01 PM   #12445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
3 gear transmission.
Aluminum lightweight pinion gears.
Schelle or Avid slipper system is lighter.
MIP 17.5 aluminum pucks and diff unit are lighter.
Remove all unexposed bearing seals. (This will require you to FREQUENTLY check all the bearings though.)
Be very meticulous cleaning and oiling bearings.
Spring for the megabucks ceramic bearings. (I personally wouldn't.)
You can shave the transmission gear width for less friction. (I'd inspect that weekly along with the bearings)
After that there's always spots you can drill out to save weight. There's room to drill out the spur gear among other things...
It is possible to get the weight way under legal weight. If you track isn't weighing cars in 17.5 class I guarantee there is some underweight.

Thanks for the response, I'm looking at all that now. I already have a slipper eliminator but I don't have the MIP kit yet but it's on order now. Do the ceramics make that much difference? Also I wish I could find someone selling a complete 3 gear transmission so I could just plug and play. Hopefully the worlds rumors with Kyosho making a 3 gear for our cars has some truth to it
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Old 09-20-2015, 01:12 PM   #12446
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Read the last few pages of this thread. Someone is selling them. Nice production pieces and not handmade dremel jobs. Search 3 gear rb6 on facebook. He's got a page over there.
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Old 09-20-2015, 01:17 PM   #12447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiL CeeZ View Post
Need help with my tranny. Ran great tonight and made the A-Main but in the main got stomped on. Guys with stock motors pulling wheelies. Asked around after the race and it's because of the lightened axles and barely any weight/rotating mass and tranny builds.

My main concern now is building my tranny like these guys and getting it lightened up as much as possible so I can get the car as snappy as theirs. What's my best course of action here guys?


If you've done all the other stuff to lighten the car up, if you want to go that far, such as all Ti screws, Ti camber links, lightweight chassis, and such you shouldn't be too far off

Run the 2.4 wheel/tire setup if you aren't, that should take off about 40g (or close to it depending on what 2.2 tires you were running) just by bolting them on.

Tranny wise:
Highly recommend the ceramic bearings for that. I think the Schelle ones are only 40 bucks or so, which isn't too bad. If you want to use the stock bearings they will work too. I'd reccomend in either case you use some motor cleaner to get all,the grease out of the bearings and then use a light oil to lube the bearings, it'll help free up the bearings (less rolling resistance). You can pull off the inner seals (or all the seals on the idler gear bearings) on the stock bearings, though you don't have to. Getting the grease out and putting a light oil will do enough for most. But as mentioned above, you'll likely have to check/maintain the bearings a bit more frequently. Less if you don't have a lot of dust from the track, but still more often than not at all.

Cut gears. These will help a lot not only for any rotational mass savings but also resistance wise on the gear teeth. But these too should be looked at often as the less surface area of the teeth could make them a little more ware prone than the stock gears.

Avid or Schelle topshaft/slipper setup will help with rotational mass savings. You can use the stock slipper setup, but I'd reccomend using the vented slipper plates if you do as they do weight a little less than the stock ones.

Out drives. At a minimum run the MIP ones for the stock bones as they are lighter. You can also run the Pucks setup if you want as they are lighter, if you plan to use the MIP pucks setup with it. I wouldn't say it's absolutely necessary, but it will help if you don't mind the costs.

3 gear tranny (Optional). It uses one less idler gear and bearings, so it should be lighter than the 4 gear setup if all other things are equal. This setup might be best suited to a high grip condition though so it might not be the best at all times to use.

My setup for 17.5 was, D4 1s (Fantom ion5 version with the works), geared 31/69 55 motor timing, the 4 gear tranny, ceramic bearings (no grease and oiled), MIP out drives for the stock bones, stock topshaft and slipper (vented slipper plates), and stock bones/axles. I could pull wheelies with the 17.5 if the grip was there and more often than not, if I was getting beat, it wasn't simply because the other guy has the whole MIP pucks setup and Avid/Schelle topshaft/slipper setup and I didn't.

Now if you have all of the cut gears, ceramic bearings, Avid/Schelle topshaft/slipper, MIP alum pucks setup, and have your car setup with all the Ti/lightweight parts on it, you should be in the hunt outside of car setup and driving. If your car setup and driving are on point with everyone else and you're still getting beat the. There's at least one other thing those guys are probably doing that you may not be. And that's a pretty touchy subject with most so I'll leave it there.
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Old 09-20-2015, 01:25 PM   #12448
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I thought that stuff was for blinky??
Shows what I know.
I've only run mod.
It's all good.
I know a couple guys that actually wish they could run turbo/boost and timing stuff in the ESC again and not the Blinky that is currently run. Not sure why, as I like the simplicity of the lack of ESC tuning in blinky, but I guess to each is their own on that.
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Old 09-20-2015, 01:29 PM   #12449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
Read the last few pages of this thread. Someone is selling them. Nice production pieces and not handmade dremel jobs. Search 3 gear rb6 on facebook. He's got a page over there.
Yes there is,
I just ordered a bunch of parts sets and covers from the guy. Ordered for a few locals that want to do the 3gear setup but don't want to do any cutting/dremeling like I did for mine. Looks good and the guy is a pretty cool dude. Should make it much easier for anyone wanting to go that route to basically just build and bolt in.
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Old 09-20-2015, 01:35 PM   #12450
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Great info Tefuel!!
Thanks for sharing.
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