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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 09-01-2015, 05:06 AM   #12376
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Do you have a fan on the motor? Airflow always helps.

I went 10.5, shorty, esc, Rx and servo in my Mod buggy. My shorty is inline backed up against the bolt-on battery stop. I have to admit my batteries were pretty warm coming off but I was certainly draining them hard to get used to the latest to get a transponder. After the 3 first packs it runs really well with dirtwebs at Cruizin, no plans to move it anytime soon. Time to try more tires.
I don't have a fan on the motor, which battery stop are you talk about exactly? I ran the weekend with the battery sideways and loved it. Tried it inline for the first half of my first practice session in the morning and went sideways during the same run to have an even evaluation while tires/track were still the same and the car just was better for me. The back end didn't want to rotate as much and it took away some steering which I liked
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Old 09-01-2015, 06:16 PM   #12377
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I know this question has probably been asked a million times but what body are you guys most happy with? I was looking at the J Concepts finnisher body thoughts? Just wondering if one helps the handling via more down force or whatnot thanks
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Old 09-01-2015, 07:55 PM   #12378
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Originally Posted by RobsRacin View Post
I don't have a fan on the motor, which battery stop are you talk about exactly? I ran the weekend with the battery sideways and loved it. Tried it inline for the first half of my first practice session in the morning and went sideways during the same run to have an even evaluation while tires/track were still the same and the car just was better for me. The back end didn't want to rotate as much and it took away some steering which I liked
Are you MM or RM? I should have asked, I assumed MM. The piece goes under the motor and provides a stop to give a gap for the battery. It is like a mouse pad with a wrist support. I looked but could not find a part number. Tomorrow night I will grab the bins and see if I can find the tree with this thing.

My maiden voyage for my mod Rb6 was very pleasing and my cells were warm after each run, I think it has much to do with the power draw. I settled on a 10.5 and I think it will be a good balance for this chassis. We start a point series tomorrow night so I am stoked for my next class. I was able to really get on the throttle because of a very strange radio setup I chose, strange but rewarding is all I can say.
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Old 09-01-2015, 07:57 PM   #12379
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Originally Posted by GIHOSU View Post
Are you MM or RM? I should have asked, I assumed MM. The piece goes under the motor and provides a stop to give a gap for the battery. It is like a mouse pad with a wrist support. I looked but could not find a part number. Tomorrow night I will grab the bins and see if I can find the tree with this thing.

My maiden voyage for my mod Rb6 was very pleasing and my cells were warm after each run, I think it has much to do with the power draw. I settled on a 10.5 and I think it will be a good balance for this chassis. We start a point series tomorrow night so I am stoked for my next class. I was able to really get on the throttle because of a very strange radio setup I chose, strange but rewarding is all I can say.
MM, currently I have no stop under there but I can see where 2 holes in the chassis underneath the waterfall could be the perfect stop for a bump stop. Right now if I go inline it is literally directly against the motor
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Old 09-01-2015, 08:30 PM   #12380
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Originally Posted by RobsRacin View Post
MM, currently I have no stop under there but I can see where 2 holes in the chassis underneath the waterfall could be the perfect stop for a bump stop. Right now if I go inline it is literally directly against the motor
Somehow we need to source one for you. It is not good to have your battery acting as a heatsink for your motor. The screws for the stop go into the holes 33mm in front of the RF hingle pin brace.
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Old 09-01-2015, 08:35 PM   #12381
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Originally Posted by RobsRacin View Post
MM, currently I have no stop under there but I can see where 2 holes in the chassis underneath the waterfall could be the perfect stop for a bump stop. Right now if I go inline it is literally directly against the motor
I have the older model without those extra holes in the chassis... so I stuck a small piece of battery spacer foam to the back side of my batteries. Gives a little airflow and provides a nice cushion from the motor. Worked pretty good so far.
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Old 09-01-2015, 09:07 PM   #12382
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Originally Posted by rpboggs1 View Post
I have the older model without those extra holes in the chassis... so I stuck a small piece of battery spacer foam to the back side of my batteries. Gives a little airflow and provides a nice cushion from the motor. Worked pretty good so far.
That'll work in a pinch, I made mine work with the front brace as far back as it would go. It still needed some foam up front.
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Old 09-02-2015, 03:41 AM   #12383
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Just made this. Gives me 1 inch of adjustment with different foams and moving the front clamp.
Battery fits perfectly with no side to side play.


Hope it holds up!
I made this. Gave a nice air gap between the motor.
It put too much weight on the rear for me but I still have the SC on the shelf above the battery.
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Old 09-02-2015, 10:08 AM   #12384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GIHOSU View Post
Are you MM or RM? I should have asked, I assumed MM. The piece goes under the motor and provides a stop to give a gap for the battery. It is like a mouse pad with a wrist support. I looked but could not find a part number. Tomorrow night I will grab the bins and see if I can find the tree with this thing.
It is part number um787. It can be found on the SC6.

http://kyoshoamerica.3dcartstores.co...R_p_22855.html
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Old 09-03-2015, 09:33 AM   #12385
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So I tried a new rear end last night at the track. Went to super narrow rear end. The car felt a lot stiffer when pushing the rear down. I went to 32.5/30 Gold/White and 2x1.6/3x1.4 pistons. It felt really good just couldn't figure out why going narrow stiffened up the rear. I also was running inside on the arm and inside on the tower.

It landed great and didn't feel like it wasn't rolling but I definitely noticed that the rear end wasn't as soft as A/A with 32.5/2x1.6/golds and 1 out on the tower.
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Old 09-03-2015, 11:13 AM   #12386
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
So I tried a new rear end last night at the track. Went to super narrow rear end. The car felt a lot stiffer when pushing the rear down. I went to 32.5/30 Gold/White and 2x1.6/3x1.4 pistons. It felt really good just couldn't figure out why going narrow stiffened up the rear. I also was running inside on the arm and inside on the tower.

It landed great and didn't feel like it wasn't rolling but I definitely noticed that the rear end wasn't as soft as A/A with 32.5/2x1.6/golds and 1 out on the tower.
My hypothesis is that the arm doesn't have the same leverage on the shock that it had in the previous position.
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Old 09-03-2015, 11:25 AM   #12387
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My hypothesis is that the arm doesn't have the same leverage on the shock that it had in the previous position.
The arm still has the same leverage since the mounting spot is the same. The thing that changes is the weight over the pivot and shock angle. I didn't want it as stood up so I brought the top in.

I'm going to move both top and bottom out 1 hole to see what that does.
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Old 09-03-2015, 02:06 PM   #12388
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
The arm still has the same leverage since the mounting spot is the same. The thing that changes is the weight over the pivot and shock angle. I didn't want it as stood up so I brought the top in.

I'm going to move both top and bottom out 1 hole to see what that does.
The lower mounting spot is the same, but the upper is further out from the pivot point.
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Old 09-04-2015, 02:39 PM   #12389
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Does anyone know what causes the rear axles to bind? I'm using the avid axles with pl wheels
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Old 09-04-2015, 04:41 PM   #12390
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Does anyone know what causes the rear axles to bind? I'm using the avid axles with pl wheels
if you don't have the spacer between the inner and outer bearing, that will do it. If you have the spacer, a bearing could be bad or the hex on the wheel might be pressing on hub.
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