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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 08-26-2015, 10:05 AM   #12361
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Does anyone know if a slipper eliminator for and RB6 will fit and RB5. I run dirt oval with this car and i would like more options for gearing as well as the advantages of running a slipper eliminator such as the one from exotek
If you're using something like the Exotek slipper eliminator with a avid/schelle spur, it should fit either car. Don't see a reason it wouldn't work
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Old 08-26-2015, 11:34 AM   #12362
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If you're using something like the Exotek slipper eliminator with a avid/schelle spur, it should fit either car. Don't see a reason it wouldn't work
I did some more looking into the differences and kyosho used the same part number top shaft for both cars and you can buy the RB6 vented slipper plates and put them on RB5, so I went ahead and ordered the Exotek.
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Old 08-26-2015, 03:51 PM   #12363
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Just joined the club boys, picked up a used one and a brand new one. Used one came with some great exotek parts, a KO propo rsx servo that I couldn't pass up and about 3-4 extra of each part brand new. Jonesing to race, used to race 10L's back in the day at SoCal raceway in Garden Grove and ABC in Costa Mesa. My son just turned 6 and I bought him the RCT5M, hoping he has a blast like I used to.

Heard great things about this RB6 and I can't wait to get her on the track. Thanks for all the info in this thread as well Cheers


Any advice for my first time building this car? Anything I should be aware of?
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Old 08-27-2015, 07:07 PM   #12364
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well guys i found one in france and as soon as i get the paypal address it is on its way.. i know its not really pertaining to this forum but im super stoked and cant wait to see it in person..
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Old 08-27-2015, 10:49 PM   #12365
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Do any of you guys still run the avid rear axles? Wondered if there was ever a fix for the rear wheels binding??
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Old 08-28-2015, 09:02 AM   #12366
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Originally Posted by LiL CeeZ View Post
Any advice for my first time building this car? Anything I should be aware of?
The RB6 build is straight forward. At first it might seem confusing with all the Japanese characters, but it's a really good/tight build.

A couple lessons learned:
  • Install your steering rack so it points backwards
  • Tebo's setups are typically a great starting point (for my track at least)
  • Put grub screws in extra holes (Rear Plastic Hubs, Rear center brace, F shock tower)
  • Shim your axles correctly (you can shim to different wheel sets too).

Good luck!
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Old 08-28-2015, 09:13 AM   #12367
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Originally Posted by Jdnoss View Post
I did some more looking into the differences and kyosho used the same part number top shaft for both cars and you can buy the RB6 vented slipper plates and put them on RB5, so I went ahead and ordered the Exotek.
Yes it will,rb6 tranny parts are same as rb5
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Old 08-28-2015, 10:02 AM   #12368
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Originally Posted by eper View Post
well guys i found one in france and as soon as i get the paypal address it is on its way.. i know its not really pertaining to this forum but im super stoked and cant wait to see it in person..
That looks similar to the Dirtybits conversion, the DB6. I think the company is called Dirtybits???

I guess I'm jumping late into this conversation, but unless you run on carpet or some other high-bite surface, I don't recommend this.

The Schumacher KF2 (excluding the recent MM conversion) suffers from the same problem you are likely to encounter with this mod. Having the motor closer to the CG drastically affects the amount of rear traction you'll have on anything other than high-bite.

The further forward your motor is the less effect the motor rotation will have on the chassis generating forward traction due to a shorter leverage arm. Adding weight to the rear will help a bit, but not enough to to be effective and will only make the car heavier.
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Old 08-28-2015, 05:05 PM   #12369
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Originally Posted by Jpdanger View Post
That looks similar to the Dirtybits conversion, the DB6. I think the company is called Dirtybits???

I guess I'm jumping late into this conversation, but unless you run on carpet or some other high-bite surface, I don't recommend this.

The Schumacher KF2 (excluding the recent MM conversion) suffers from the same problem you are likely to encounter with this mod. Having the motor closer to the CG drastically affects the amount of rear traction you'll have on anything other than high-bite.

The further forward your motor is the less effect the motor rotation will have on the chassis generating forward traction due to a shorter leverage arm. Adding weight to the rear will help a bit, but not enough to to be effective and will only make the car heavier.
I believe eper bought his for the astro track here in CT
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Old 08-29-2015, 04:48 AM   #12370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpdanger View Post
That looks similar to the Dirtybits conversion, the DB6. I think the company is called Dirtybits???

I guess I'm jumping late into this conversation, but unless you run on carpet or some other high-bite surface, I don't recommend this.

The Schumacher KF2 (excluding the recent MM conversion) suffers from the same problem you are likely to encounter with this mod. Having the motor closer to the CG drastically affects the amount of rear traction you'll have on anything other than high-bite.

The further forward your motor is the less effect the motor rotation will have on the chassis generating forward traction due to a shorter leverage arm. Adding weight to the rear will help a bit, but not enough to to be effective and will only make the car heavier.
There are mainly two companies doing what English call cheater cars on a Kyosho base.
Rudebits, England-based, makes the DB1 and DB2.

Redworkshop, France-based, maker of the Stonem, B5M Low Rider...

The car on the pic is a Stonem 615 (RB6 front, ZX5 rear, 2015 version).
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Old 08-29-2015, 05:26 AM   #12371
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Originally Posted by Kuya_Kimo View Post
The RB6 build is straight forward. At first it might seem confusing with all the Japanese characters, but it's a really good/tight build.

A couple lessons learned:
  • Install your steering rack so it points backwards
  • Tebo's setups are typically a great starting point (for my track at least)
  • Put grub screws in extra holes (Rear Plastic Hubs, Rear center brace, F shock tower)
  • Shim your axles correctly (you can shim to different wheel sets too).

Good luck!

Are you running at OCRC? Just curious cuz I'll be running at Coyote Hobbies which is an indoor clay track. Waiting on my lightweight chassis to show ups before I start my build though.

What do you guys think about the titanium screw set for the car is a worth waiting for them as well or just build the car with the screw set it comes with? Was also looking at a few of the exotek parts like the whole steering assembly and the front c hubs, thoughts?
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Old 08-29-2015, 10:11 AM   #12372
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Originally Posted by LiL CeeZ View Post
Are you running at OCRC? Just curious cuz I'll be running at Coyote Hobbies which is an indoor clay track. Waiting on my lightweight chassis to show ups before I start my build though.

What do you guys think about the titanium screw set for the car is a worth waiting for them as well or just build the car with the screw set it comes with? Was also looking at a few of the exotek parts like the whole steering assembly and the front c hubs, thoughts?
Coyote Hobbies is a great place to race and has plenty of traction! I do run @ OCRC, but I really enjoy myself at Coyote when I'm in town.

Drive Time > Track time > Tires > Setup > Everything else > Titanium screws

I suggest to build it as is. However, that being said... I do have the steering assembly, screws. Kyosho plastics are VERY good, and creating a metal car would just add extra weight and stiffness.

I prefer to keep extra weight off. Rear Hubs are the first and probably only needed upgrade as the ballstud will probably rip out quickly (that's why I asked to add the grub screws).

Kuya
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Old 08-29-2015, 10:21 AM   #12373
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Originally Posted by Kuya_Kimo View Post
Coyote Hobbies is a great place to race and has plenty of traction! I do run @ OCRC, but I really enjoy myself at Coyote when I'm in town.

Drive Time > Track time > Tires > Setup > Everything else > Titanium screws

I suggest to build it as is. However, that being said... I do have the steering assembly, screws. Kyosho plastics are VERY good, and creating a metal car would just add extra weight and stiffness.

I prefer to keep extra weight off. Rear Hubs are the first and probably only needed upgrade as the ballstud will probably rip out quickly (that's why I asked to add the grub screws).

Kuya

Thanks Kuya! Gonna take my time and start today. Gotta wait for my body to get painted as well. I want to drive now but gonna stay patient
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Old 08-29-2015, 05:07 PM   #12374
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i got the car for turf only and this is the redsworkshop conversion but it is coming to me with this conversion and the rudebits db2 aswell
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:18 PM   #12375
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Mod 8.5. It appears as though I have a slight gap as well but I just don't want to hurt the battery too badly. You can definitely feel that one end is hotter than the other after a run
Do you have a fan on the motor? Airflow always helps.

I went 10.5, shorty, esc, Rx and servo in my Mod buggy. My shorty is inline backed up against the bolt-on battery stop. I have to admit my batteries were pretty warm coming off but I was certainly draining them hard to get used to the latest to get a transponder. After the 3 first packs it runs really well with dirtwebs at Cruizin, no plans to move it anytime soon. Time to try more tires.
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