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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 08-09-2015, 08:27 PM   #12316
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Do you have both ball bearings in the gear and outdrive?
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Old 08-09-2015, 08:41 PM   #12317
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Do you have both ball bearings in the gear and outdrive?
K_King! Thanks for replying!! Yeah they are in. Damndest thing! I'll be sure to share with all if I figure it out!!

Kevin
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Old 08-09-2015, 08:44 PM   #12318
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Post pics of your assembly.
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Old 08-09-2015, 09:56 PM   #12319
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Whats Up All!!!
New RB6 owner.
Working my build right now and I've built a bunch of kits but I'm having a hell of a time with the ball diff. Built to the instructions every step of the way down to having the washers in the correct direction but the diff wont diff. I turn it all the way in it gets to lock, I back it out a but and I turn one outdrive the other doesn't move (no diff action). I've carried out the whole process a couple times now and no luck so I thought I'd try you kind folks!
Any input is much appreciated!!!

Kevin
Several years ago I had the same issue... I don't remember exactly what I did to fix it but I think I either had too much grease which prevented the diff rings from seating... Or maybe I just didn't get the rings to fully seat before tightening the diff screw... Or maybe just tightened the diff further than I thought I should to get it to properly seat. It certainly wasn't anything major in my case though. Good luck!
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Old 08-10-2015, 04:08 PM   #12320
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so I'm really late to the party, been really trying to avoid it but i guess I'm going to bite the bullet and try shorty sideways. how big of a difference will 1mm make on the battery height? looking at the chassis it seems that 1mm will get rid of the ridges in the chassis. Im assuming a little more on the edges since it bevels just a touch? I was thinking of may just dremeling the sides and not even touching the middle of the chassis unless i need to. Has anyone done the shorty sideways and not have cared for it?
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Old 08-10-2015, 04:45 PM   #12321
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Originally Posted by CaseyD View Post
so I'm really late to the party, been really trying to avoid it but i guess I'm going to bite the bullet and try shorty sideways. how big of a difference will 1mm make on the battery height? looking at the chassis it seems that 1mm will get rid of the ridges in the chassis. Im assuming a little more on the edges since it bevels just a touch? I was thinking of may just dremeling the sides and not even touching the middle of the chassis unless i need to. Has anyone done the shorty sideways and not have cared for it?
I was also late to the party. recently did shorty sideways mod without touching the chassis, just cut the side pods.

car is definitely BETTER. you will not be disappointed.
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Old 08-10-2015, 05:44 PM   #12322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leadfinger2012 View Post
Whats Up All!!!
New RB6 owner.
Working my build right now and I've built a bunch of kits but I'm having a hell of a time with the ball diff. Built to the instructions every step of the way down to having the washers in the correct direction but the diff wont diff. I turn it all the way in it gets to lock, I back it out a but and I turn one outdrive the other doesn't move (no diff action). I've carried out the whole process a couple times now and no luck so I thought I'd try you kind folks!
Any input is much appreciated!!!

Kevin
Hey All,
Well I figured it out and I wish I had something more earth shattering than just re building it and re building over and over did the trick. I'm guessing one of the rings just didn't seat all the way. something to watch for on the first re-build again!!! Thanks Again those who replied to help!!!

Kevin
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Old 08-10-2015, 09:15 PM   #12323
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Does the rb6 2015 allow u to run the battery sideways without milling the chassis?
Try using 2 strips of Z8006 vibration absorption sheet to stick the battery down to the chassis. It works perfectly for me, no chassis mods necessary.
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Old 08-13-2015, 07:13 PM   #12324
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have any of you guys run the rude bits db2.. i think i want to try one
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Old 08-16-2015, 09:50 AM   #12325
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So who has tried the 521 flat arms recently?
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:16 AM   #12326
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So who has tried the 521 flat arms recently?


I was thinking of trying them again. Im attending a JC turf race and figure they might be good on astro, not sure tho as I never raced on carpet or Astro.
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:18 AM   #12327
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I ran then once last night, didnt change anything except shock ends to short and 27.5 droop using the inside hole. The rear end felt flatter, almost like you could drive the car a big harder overall. I don't think drilling is required on these arms but its worth a shot if you want to mess with it. I think have to go to a slightly softer rear setup as well. I was 32.5 and golds and I think white's would have been better or 30 wt.
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Old 08-16-2015, 12:02 PM   #12328
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I was thinking of trying them again. Im attending a JC turf race and figure they might be good on astro, not sure tho as I never raced on carpet or Astro.
Im not sure about the RB6 but when I ran my B5M on the astro we were going from the flat arms that we run on dirt to gull wings just for more steering. Not sure that applies to the RB6 but I certainly will try both when I go and see what I think
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Old 08-16-2015, 01:59 PM   #12329
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
I ran then once last night, didnt change anything except shock ends to short and 27.5 droop using the inside hole. The rear end felt flatter, almost like you could drive the car a big harder overall. I don't think drilling is required on these arms but its worth a shot if you want to mess with it. I think have to go to a slightly softer rear setup as well. I was 32.5 and golds and I think white's would have been better or 30 wt.

Good info, thanks. Im going to have them with me and if its not going good ill be sure to turn the weekend into testand tune and try the flats.
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Old 08-16-2015, 02:05 PM   #12330
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Originally Posted by RobsRacin View Post
Im not sure about the RB6 but when I ran my B5M on the astro we were going from the flat arms that we run on dirt to gull wings just for more steering. Not sure that applies to the RB6 but I certainly will try both when I go and see what I think


I would imagine your talking front arms which makes sense to run gullys for more steering. Kevin is refering to the rear arms which on the RB6 help the car rotate in certain situations. My experience with rear flats are they square up faster and are better if you have to run a softer setup for bumpy tracks without giving up on power steering. When i try to run gullys with a soft suspension the car gets really tight on exit.
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