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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-08-2012, 10:14 AM   #1216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SAGISI View Post
Just seen in your previous post that you want to try losi piston in your
K shocks but cant believe people like losi cars? If you want to run 55 pistons then buy the Kyosho blank pistons and custom drill them to 4 x 55 holes.

Part number for Kyosho blank pistons: W5303-08
get em SAGISI
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Old 10-08-2012, 10:24 AM   #1217
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Still waiting on setup *hint*hint*
i can post up on here or PM it to you that want it
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Old 10-08-2012, 10:34 AM   #1218
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why keep it a secret????

please post for everyone
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Old 10-08-2012, 10:47 AM   #1219
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Love the attention to detail.

I know the 22 and RB6 are 2 different animals, but I have been noticing folks have been mounting the battery (fullsize) a lot more forward than what can be done in the 22. The 22 wheelbase is 286mm and RB6 is 285mm.

Curious the results with this configuration. Lot of steering? Less traction?
Thanks... Well, this battery isn't mounted a lot more forward... this is actually the standard full sized lipo mounting position for the RB6. How the RB6 drives compared to the 22? Not sure... i don't have any wheel time with my RB6. But I can tell you that I am not a fan of how the 22 drives in ANY configuration... personal preference thing.

I wouldn't compare "perceived" battery placement between the two cars directly... two different cars, two different static weight bias, two different designs. Overall though, up to a certain point, whichever end has more weight, will have more traction.
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:10 AM   #1220
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Thanks... Well, this battery isn't mounted a lot more forward... this is actually the standard full sized lipo mounting position for the RB6. How the RB6 drives compared to the 22? Not sure... i don't have any wheel time with my RB6. But I can tell you that I am not a fan of how the 22 drives in ANY configuration... personal preference thing.

I wouldn't compare "perceived" battery placement between the two cars directly... two different cars, two different static weight bias, two different designs. Overall though, up to a certain point, whichever end has more weight, will have more traction.
looking at your picture and looking at the 22 with a full sized lipo, the rb6 does have the full sized lipo further forward, but i wonder if that is because the RB6 is 100% built to run the shorty, i doubt we'll see too many, if any pros running the long batts (the Orion WTS counts as a shorty IMO).

obviously according to ROAR (IFMAR?) the car has to be built to take the long sticks but in offroad less and less are in buggies, but the diesigners at Kyosho know its better with the short pack
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:34 AM   #1221
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Originally Posted by t8rtot View Post
looking at your picture and looking at the 22 with a full sized lipo, the rb6 does have the full sized lipo further forward, but i wonder if that is because the RB6 is 100% built to run the shorty, i doubt we'll see too many, if any pros running the long batts (the Orion WTS counts as a shorty IMO).

obviously according to ROAR (IFMAR?) the car has to be built to take the long sticks but in offroad less and less are in buggies, but the diesigners at Kyosho know its better with the short pack
Local Kyosho driver told me he loves it with the full pack. Weight is your friend in most cases.
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:39 AM   #1222
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Originally Posted by t8rtot View Post
looking at your picture and looking at the 22 with a full sized lipo, the rb6 does have the full sized lipo further forward, but i wonder if that is because the RB6 is 100% built to run the shorty, i doubt we'll see too many, if any pros running the long batts (the Orion WTS counts as a shorty IMO).

obviously according to ROAR (IFMAR?) the car has to be built to take the long sticks but in offroad less and less are in buggies, but the diesigners at Kyosho know its better with the short pack
Like I just posted in the RB5 thread, it really depends on your traction levels. On a medium or low bite track, having a slightly porky car can actually be faster around the track because weight creates traction. If you have really really high levels of traction, like carpet or turf, traction is never an issue, so doing whatever it takes to get down to the weight minimum will certainly be the fastest.

Having said THAT, there is something else to consider, and that is pack voltage drop over time. If I am running a 6500 mah battery, and you are running a 4000 shorty... what will the voltage difference be between the two packs at the end of a heated run? I did quite a bit of testing between a 4000 shorty, and a 6500 full pack in 17.5 buggy (RB5 WC), and the car was noticeably faster towards the middle and end of the race with the larger MAH pack. The shorty would come off the track at like 7.7 volts, and the full pack was coming off at 8.15 with the same run. Having said that, the RB5 is a lighter car so the heavier pack was no big deal... on this car im not so sure yet. All I know is I hate the "feel" of the smaller mah packs because of how fast the voltage tanks compare to the larger MAH pack.

Sorry for the ramblings!
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:45 AM   #1223
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no, that is useful information

Every time I've shed weight in previous cars I've run quicker. i like the car to feel a little on edge. as long as the bias is right.

when i do get to race, the tracks i run on are typically higher traction and the added weight isn't the most beneficial. i'm looking forward to testing a few different options
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Old 10-08-2012, 12:01 PM   #1224
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Good info. Mine is going to be built to run a full size stick and ran that way and also ran with a shorty pack and tuned with different sized foams.
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Old 10-08-2012, 12:17 PM   #1225
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Hi guys - I'm finding the information that everyone is posting to be very useful. Thank you for sharing. I'm currently in the process of building my RB6 and will be placing another order to finish off the buggy to my personal taste and liking. I came up with the following list of hopups and spares and would appreciate any feedback and advice. Some items are strictly for 'bling' purposes but I feel that the majority of items are critical upgrades and/or spares.

Kyosho Hopups
- Alum Battery Post Set
- Alum Rear Hub Carrier Set (0.5 degrees)
- Vented Slipper Disk Set
- Alum Wide Rear Outer Susp Holder
- Alum Wide Rear Inner Susp Holder
- 'Type B' Middle Suspension Arm Set

Kyosho Spares
- Front Susp Arms
- Rear Susp Arms
- Front Hub Carrier Set
- Front Knuckle Set
- Front Shock Stay
- Rear Shock Stay
- Crank Arm Set
- Front/Rear Inner Susp Shafts (44mm)
- Front Outer Susp Shaft (25mm)

3rd party Hopups/Hardware
- Blue shims/spacers (various sizes)
- Blue lock nuts (various sizes)
- Ceramic diff balls
- Lunsford 1 1/8" Ti Turnbuckles
- STRC Alum Front Bulkhead

In Tebo's ROAR Nats (WCRC) setup sheet, do you guys know what brand shock oil he is referencing? I know that they use Losi shock oil on their 1/8 buggies but didn't want to assume that was the case for 1/10.
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Old 10-08-2012, 12:38 PM   #1226
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hcj2Z...eature=related
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:09 PM   #1227
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Sick whips !!!!
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:17 PM   #1228
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- Front/Rear Inner Susp Shafts (44mm)
- Front Outer Susp Shaft (25mm)
- Ceramic diff balls
I have yet to see a single kyosho buggy ever bend or need a shock shaft replacement... and don't get ceramic diff balls, you should run carbides in a kyosho diff. Id run ceramics in the thrust though.
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:32 PM   #1229
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I have yet to see a single kyosho buggy ever bend or need a shock shaft replacement... and don't get ceramic diff balls, you should run carbides in a kyosho diff. Id run ceramics in the thrust though.
I broke a shock shaft once. It was a VERY hard hit. Ripped off the entire left rear suspension on my SC-R. It can be done but you have to do something really stupid to do it.
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:58 PM   #1230
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I do believe i just got the last rb6 speedtech has!!!! its the sign of a good day lol
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