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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 07-29-2015, 12:23 PM   #12271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glenng View Post
That little fan setup you made is badass what fan is it? and are you plugging into receiver? thanks.
Thanks man!
Ya plugged into the receiver.
On backorder now!!
http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/muchmor...u25fan/p153358
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Old 07-30-2015, 06:51 AM   #12272
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my new rb6 is almost ready just waiting on some wire
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Old 07-30-2015, 12:00 PM   #12273
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Just noticed the vertical angle of my front arms was slightly different compared to the other side. I assume symmetry is a good thing for a front end and traced the issue to the suspension block, which was twisted slightly.

Wonder how long that's been off.
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Old 07-30-2015, 12:10 PM   #12274
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The plastic pivot is pretty soft. I would run the aluminum one at minimum.
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Old 07-30-2015, 12:14 PM   #12275
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The plastic pivot is pretty soft. I would run the aluminum one at minimum.
Good call. It's on my list. thx
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Old 07-30-2015, 12:22 PM   #12276
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The plastic pivot is pretty soft. I would run the aluminum one at minimum.
I been eyeballing the aluminum piece.
I broke a front hinge pin once with the plastic so I'm still apprehensive.
The stocker takes a good beating but does get warped after a while.
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Old 07-30-2015, 03:08 PM   #12277
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Managed to snap my C mount last night while running outside after a big triple. Luckily had a spare but thinking ill need aluminium ones
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Old 07-31-2015, 05:20 PM   #12278
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Finished up my new RB6 2015 Edition and took it for a spin at SCVRC on Tuesday night. Wicked fun, great car right out of the box. I can't help but want to tune it up for even better performance. Interesting note coming from the DEX210v2 Durango platform is that I am instantly faster with the RB6. I'd say my average lap time at SCVRC in 2WD mod is about 20-21 seconds. I'm now doing 19s with my Rb6 first day out. It seems to develop more traction overall and is more consistent to drive. I need to also take a spin at OCRC and see how my times compare there.

Lastly, has anyone used the RC SHOX and what settings do you like on what types of tracks? Did you go with the PRO or expert kit? Can you upgrade from Pro to Expert or are they only sold in packs? seems like only packs.

Thanks in advance!

Dave
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Old 08-01-2015, 08:30 PM   #12279
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Had a couple issues tonight and learned a couple things.
We had been running a RS speed control this whole time without a hotwire and never really learned much about motor timing. I now know that this was our issue with getting hot.
We picked up a R10 pro with program box and did some homework on timing and everything stays much cooler.
Apparently the R10 doesn't put out as much power to the reciever because we started getting a servo glitch. We unplugged the fan and it was fine after that.
So no fan on the ESC or the motor running back to back heats and mains and it never got hot. Just warm to the touch.

Also, on our second practice pack we chipped 2 teeth off the top idler gear. Should have just replaced them when I did the diff.

End of the day, kiddo got another TQ and a win and got kicked out of novice class and I got 3rd in mod buggy.
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Old 08-02-2015, 08:13 AM   #12280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
Had a couple issues tonight and learned a couple things.
We had been running a RS speed control this whole time without a hotwire and never really learned much about motor timing. I now know that this was our issue with getting hot.
We picked up a R10 pro with program box and did some homework on timing and everything stays much cooler.
Apparently the R10 doesn't put out as much power to the reciever because we started getting a servo glitch. We unplugged the fan and it was fine after that.
So no fan on the ESC or the motor running back to back heats and mains and it never got hot. Just warm to the touch.

Also, on our second practice pack we chipped 2 teeth off the top idler gear. Should have just replaced them when I did the diff.

End of the day, kiddo got another TQ and a win and got kicked out of novice class and I got 3rd in mod buggy.
Servo glitch when the fan(s) plugged in?
I run the R10Pro in both my RB6 and ZX6 and on the ZX6 I have a fan on the esc and motor and have never had a glitch issue. Not sure why you'd be having that issue, unless one or both of your fans draw a lot of power, which I would think they don't usually do so, but I've never actually thought about checking the current draw of different fans. Hopefully you can get that fixed so you can use a fan or fans if you need them.
If your mod motor is not running too much motor timing or boost/turbo in the esc, you shouldn't have to worry about the fan in the 2wd. Been a while since I had my mod in mine, but when I did have a 7.5 in mine I was geared 22-24/76 and had the motor timing set conservatively (on the Orion I had at the time, I think it was about half way on the timing marks or a line or two under), and the esc was set to the Dustin Evans Nats setup. Not a lot of boost or turbo in the esc. Could easily run 25-35 minutes on a pack and no fan was needed.

Chipped idler?
It happens. I'd suggest using the optional alum. Idler gear from Kyosho if running the 4 gear MM setup. Set the gears so it goes top shaft, plastic idler, alum idler, diff. Seems to help the tranny last a lot longer when running mod.
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Old 08-02-2015, 09:19 AM   #12281
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See I may still be way off base.
I'm running a 20/84. Speed seems good compared to others though. No long straights on our local track. Pretty tight layout.

I currently have,
Tekin gen2 8.5 with 30 degrees timing.
Zero boost
5 degrees turbo

Still learning about reciever voltage also.
Is a Savox 1258 a high voltage servo?
Read some about reciever capacitors but with a fan and transponer I'm out of ports. I could plug the fan straight to the SC or even the battery.

Almost makes me miss spec slash class. Almost. I can see how people might get discouraged with all the tech. Lots to learn.
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Old 08-02-2015, 10:10 AM   #12282
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Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
See I may still be way off base.
I'm running a 20/84. Speed seems good compared to others though. No long straights on our local track. Pretty tight layout.

I currently have,
Tekin gen2 8.5 with 30 degrees timing.
Zero boost
5 degrees turbo

Still learning about reciever voltage also.
Is a Savox 1258 a high voltage servo?
Read some about reciever capacitors but with a fan and transponer I'm out of ports. I could plug the fan straight to the SC or even the battery.

Almost makes me miss spec slash class. Almost. I can see how people might get discouraged with all the tech. Lots to learn.

Gearing might be right for your track, though I would probably stick with the 76 spur and gear accordingly for the track. 23-25 might be real close for a 8.5, but if the track is small, you'll likely never hit full throttle anywhere. So if the current gearing is good enough, then stick with it. Just make sure the slipper is set right.
Your esc settings look/sound like it's pretty close to what I was running for mod on mine. Look at your punch setting on the esc with the box, I was usually at 3-4 for mod and the full 9 for stock.
Motor timing is more than I'd run, but you are also geared a bit lower than I would be, so you could leave the gearing as is and set the motor timing at 20-25 and see if that helps with temps. You'll likely loose a bit of top end speed, but it could help the car feel easier to drive and should run a little cooler.

The servo isn't a HV servo, but they can be a bit power hungry when compared to others. Make sure your esc has the caps that go with it, that run off the esc itself. They do wonders and you wouldn't need to use a port in the Rx for one.

Just some suggestions that could help.
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Old 08-02-2015, 11:16 AM   #12283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
Had a couple issues tonight and learned a couple things.
We had been running a RS speed control this whole time without a hotwire and never really learned much about motor timing. I now know that this was our issue with getting hot.
We picked up a R10 pro with program box and did some homework on timing and everything stays much cooler.
Apparently the R10 doesn't put out as much power to the reciever because we started getting a servo glitch. We unplugged the fan and it was fine after that.
So no fan on the ESC or the motor running back to back heats and mains and it never got hot. Just warm to the touch.

Also, on our second practice pack we chipped 2 teeth off the top idler gear. Should have just replaced them when I did the diff.

End of the day, kiddo got another TQ and a win and got kicked out of novice class and I got 3rd in mod buggy.
Why didn't you just get a hotwire to adjust the speed control you had?

Although you both drive the same car, you don't both drive it at the same time, so the use of we is not right.

That's good that he won and got moved out of Novice, but what are you going to do now? Is there a stock class he can run? If so, they aren't gonna let him run an 8.5 (I'm surprised they let him run an 8.5 in a buggy in Novice). If he jumps into mod you guys obviously can't run the same car.
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Old 08-02-2015, 01:23 PM   #12284
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post

Just some suggestions that could help.
Excellent suggestions!! VERY appreciated!
I'm going to reduce motor timing and try a little taller gear next time out.
Running 3 on the punch.
We're running the double caps that came with it but they're a little beat up and I wondered if they were still good. I'll look into it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mantis Toboggan View Post
Why didn't you just get a hotwire to adjust the speed control you had?

Well, The guy that sold it to me tried to hook up his hotwire to it but it wouldn't connect. It was his spare that his kid used to run. He said he needed to update his app but no signal at our track. I didn't care for the whole setup so I didn't invest in it. I'm from the 80's anyway. Speed controls should have heat sinks.


Although you both drive the same car, you don't both drive it at the same time, so the use of we is not right.

It really is. We are a team. Everything pertaining to RC is done as a team. We did everything I said we did. I hope we keep doing it for a long time. Weeeeeee!!

That's good that he won and got moved out of Novice, but what are you going to do now? Is there a stock class he can run? If so, they aren't gonna let him run an 8.5 (I'm surprised they let him run an 8.5 in a buggy in Novice). If he jumps into mod you guys obviously can't run the same car.

Our local track is pretty small. Last night it was 2wd mod buggy, 4wd SCT, and novice. There was a 2wd SCT in 4wd just because he wanted to race. He got 2nd. Even during the busy season they don't get 17.5 classes. The track in Louisville doesn't usually get a stock class either. Novice class is any 2wd 1/10 run whatcha brung. Win too much or go too fast and your out. It's usually adults against my 10y.o. son and it's usually a good race. I honestly think he'd be faster with a 17.5 motor. He's not 2wd mod fast but he's getting better each time. He's excited to move up. If there's only 2 entries in novice they will ask him to run novice to fill the class. Happens all the time.

Thursday I scored a Radiopost for 100 bucks and Friday a RB6 for 110. We'll both run mod buggy because it's the only class they're sure to run. Southern Indiana is not the mecca of offroad RC.

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Old 08-02-2015, 04:03 PM   #12285
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finally gonna get to run some laps this week
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