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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 07-24-2015, 03:48 PM   #12256
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Originally Posted by raz14 View Post
I just confirmed- I have the 3 line RB5 shaft/axle. Good to know it's a viable setup.

Hopefully the dog bones are set ok. I don't know which pivot set I'm running, but the bones are not in danger of falling from the outdrives.
Sweet,
Now you'd either need the 2mm spacers that come with the rear plastic hub crush tubes or 2-1mm spacers that came with the old ZX5 steering spacers, which you'd need a total of 4 (they might have them separately now, I haven't looked), or you'll need some .5mm shims. I used some Traxxas .5 Teflon shims
http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/traxxas...-tra1985/p3272
The only thing with those, is when using them on the inside of the rear hubs, make sure you keep the one or two stock thin metal shims on the axle stub first then the Teflon shim(s) then the bearing. Otherwise, the Teflon shim(s) will eventually slide/ware over the little lip on the axle stub and cause all kinds of issues. Had that happen a couple times, thought I blew a bearing out.

After that, it's all about the right dog bone length for what you want/need. The stock 65.5 bones in my opinion are 1.5mm too long to run D-in/D-in (narrowest pivot) and have the longer axle stubs shimmed in 2mm. When I ran that pivot mount setup and wanted the narrower rear track width, I had to use the 62.5 bone length to keep the bone plunge in the outlive from being too much. it's kind of crazy the way Kyosho does some things, but if you play around a bit, you'll see which parts will be needed for that you want/need. I think if the rear bones were set at 64mm you'd likely have a lot less issues when playing with rear track width, but as of yet, they don't offer that bone length.
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Old 07-24-2015, 03:50 PM   #12257
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Yup. I ordered the part # right from the manual.
Good deal,
I'll have to look in to that new updated part. More options to play around with. That's the one thing about the RB6, there's no shortage of options to play with. Lol.
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Old 07-24-2015, 10:11 PM   #12258
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Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
Here's stock RB6 with 2mm spacer and RB5 with 4.5mm hex.
On both you could move the inner 1mm spacer to the outside for even more width. RB6 axle is a much cleaner and stronger setup. No pin to fool with. No cross hole. No chance of a crooked hex.
Thanks for all the info,
I just did the 2mm spacer on the exotek ti axles I have on my car and it worked out pretty well. I ended up reusing the 1mm plastic spacer with a thin metal shim to set the end play. I'll have to try it out. Thanks again for the info
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Old 07-25-2015, 03:56 PM   #12259
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Originally Posted by RobsRacin View Post
Anyone have a link to where I could get some red ball stud washers? I see concepts have stuff in blue
I had trouble finding them too, but you can get them directly from Kyosho America.

3x7x1; 3x7x2; Counterink washers.
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Old 07-26-2015, 12:13 PM   #12260
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Hood scoop and fan worked perfectly. We ran back to back heats and mains all night and never got hot. I think the equipment will last a lot longer now.
Kiddo got TQ and another win in novice and I got 4th.
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Old 07-27-2015, 05:01 PM   #12261
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Could someone point me in a direction to get good green 12 gauge wire
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Old 07-27-2015, 05:29 PM   #12262
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Originally Posted by eper View Post
Could someone point me in a direction to get good green 12 gauge wire
http://shop.kopropoamerica.com/index...product_id=922

This is the only Green 12g wire that I know of
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Old 07-28-2015, 03:35 AM   #12263
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thank you
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Old 07-29-2015, 06:01 AM   #12264
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Got it all buttoned up. Fresh carbide diff. Fresh pucks. Fresh gears. Fresh Schelle slipper pads. Fresh shock oil. 2x1.6 front and rear. 30wt. front. 27.5wt. rear. Took it down the road and WOW is this thing smooth and quiet. Can't wait to race tomorrow!
Quoting myself from 6-5-2015. We've put 8 weekends on this tranny. We have 4 batteries and run all 4 during practice. 3 heats and a main in 2 classes is right at 100 runs before the diff felt crunchy. Didn't feel super bad with the wheels on but it felt worse just turning the axles so I rebuilt it. Cleaned it all up, flipped the washers, and re-greased. Smooth as butter. Gears all looked great so back in they went. Hope it lasts another 100 runs.
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Old 07-29-2015, 07:21 AM   #12265
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Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
Quoting myself from 6-5-2015. We've put 8 weekends on this tranny. We have 4 batteries and run all 4 during practice. 3 heats and a main in 2 classes is right at 100 runs before the diff felt crunchy. Didn't feel super bad with the wheels on but it felt worse just turning the axles so I rebuilt it. Cleaned it all up, flipped the washers, and re-greased. Smooth as butter. Gears all looked great so back in they went. Hope it lasts another 100 runs.
Those are the MIP diff rings your flipping right? The Kyosho ones are only one sided.
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Old 07-29-2015, 07:41 AM   #12266
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Those are the MIP diff rings your flipping right? The Kyosho ones are only one sided.
Correct.

The Kyosho's are one sided?? What's the other side look like? That's kinda crappy.

The MIP's are like mirrors on both sides. The used side was grooved pretty good. It would take some serious sanding to get the groove out and even if you did I doubt it would still be parallel to the other side. If there was a diff gear where the hole circle for the diff balls was a shade smaller you could get 2 more rebuilds from a set of rings. hmmmmmm....
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Old 07-29-2015, 08:42 AM   #12267
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Here's the latest oPAULo mod.
Hopefully won't be overheating for the rest of summer.
Fits perfectly with good clearance on both sides. 3mm spacers put it just behind the battery clamp.
I really doubt that fan is doing anything. Those little fans need open air to pull from, and your fan is greatly obstructed. Run the car with the fan running and check the temps, then run it again with it unplugged. I bet your temp delta is maybe 5°. I guess if you are that close to overheating every bit helps, but for all the effort the return is going to be very very very minimal.
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Old 07-29-2015, 09:05 AM   #12268
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Originally Posted by Mantis Toboggan View Post
I really doubt that fan is doing anything. Those little fans need open air to pull from, and your fan is greatly obstructed. Run the car with the fan running and check the temps, then run it again with it unplugged. I bet your temp delta is maybe 5°. I guess if you are that close to overheating every bit helps, but for all the effort the return is going to be very very very minimal.
I don’t have a temp gun, yet. Just fingers. Before the fan it felt hot. Now it feels not hot. Just warm. You can feel the air coming from the back of the car so it's doing something. I recently heard 150-160 is quite normal and at that temp you can't hold your finger on it so I may not have had a problem to begin with. At 9 grams weight it's not doing me any harm.
Just got a Orion R10 pro so hopefully I can stop worrying about stuff getting too hot.

Only been back in the hobby for 7 months so I still have a great deal to learn and a LOT more practicing to do.
The feedback here is VERY helpful and I do appreciate it!!
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Old 07-29-2015, 09:09 AM   #12269
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I'll get a temp gun and report back.
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Old 07-29-2015, 12:20 PM   #12270
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I'll get a temp gun and report back.
That little fan setup you made is badass what fan is it? and are you plugging into receiver? thanks.
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