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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 07-24-2015, 01:04 PM   #12241
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Is there a trick to spacing the wheels out to the ends of the axles for more stability or steering? Seems like the position of the hex is dictated by the axle pin location for the wheel hex.

A wider hex would work, but I've only seen 5mm width hexes available for the RB6 so I think I'm missing something.

I think my RB6 has longer RB5 front axles on it for example, and the extra length isn't used.
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Old 07-24-2015, 01:52 PM   #12242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raz14 View Post
Is there a trick to spacing the wheels out to the ends of the axles for more stability or steering? Seems like the position of the hex is dictated by the axle pin location for the wheel hex.

A wider hex would work, but I've only seen 5mm width hexes available for the RB6 so I think I'm missing something.

I think my RB6 has longer RB5 front axles on it for example, and the extra length isn't used.

Couple ways to do it, I'll go in two parts
Rear:
If using the stock dog bones and axle stubs, you have a few options depending on how much more width you want.
One is the .7mm wider hexes
http://www.losipartshouse.com/KYOUMW...youmw523gm.htm
Those will give you .7mm per side in width and simply replace the stock wheel hex. Super easy to do. Only down fall, is with some aftermarket wheels, you may have less threads to use the wheel nut on. A low profile serrated wheel nut will likely have to be used.
Next option is/are the longer 3 lined axle stubs.
http://www.losipartshouse.com/KYOUM5...youm510-02.htm
Those will give you 2mm more per side if you shim them out at the hub. Can use the stock wheel hex or the slightly wider one if you wish. Replaces the stock 2 line axle stub. Will need to use a single 2mm shim, 2-1mm shims, or some .5mm shims to get what you want. Not as simple as just swapping out wheel hexes, but you'll likely have the most adjustment and you shouldn't have to worry too much about the wheel nut. Main down side is that depending on how you have the rear pivot mount set (wide or narrow) you may need a shorter dog bone to set the correct plunge in the out drive (either from being too far in or out)
If not using the stock drive lines and using something like the MIP Pucks system,
You might be able to use a wider wheel hex like maybe an AE one (I'm not 100% positive here) or you'd need to use wheel spacer that goes between the hex and the wheel.
http://avidrc.com/product/5/accessor...cessories.html
I believe jConcepts also make something like those. Only down side that I can see is you might not have enough threads to use a stock wheel nut on. Again maybe a low profile serrated wheel nut needs to be used. Also would have to remember that you have those on when you swap wheels/tires so you don't get one stuck in the wheel and not know it. They should be real easy to use though.
That's pretty much it on the rear end.

Front:
You can also use the carbon wheel spacers mentioned above or the wider wheel hexes if you have the RB5 front hexes, which it sounds like you already do. Either of those will likely be the easiest to do it get what you want or need. If I remember correctly, the stock RB5 front hex setup is already wider than the stock RB6 stock setup by a couple mm's.
Now if you're using the stock RB6 front hex setup, then you'd have to either swap out to the RB5 front hex setup or figure out how to space out the stock RB6 hexes another mm per side. It can be done, Kevin King has done that I believe. I'm not sure what he did to do it though.

Hope that helps you out
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Old 07-24-2015, 02:26 PM   #12243
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Here's stock RB6 with 2mm spacer and RB5 with 4.5mm hex.
On both you could move the inner 1mm spacer to the outside for even more width. RB6 axle is a much cleaner and stronger setup. No pin to fool with. No cross hole. No chance of a crooked hex.
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Old 07-24-2015, 02:46 PM   #12244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
Couple ways to do it, I'll go in two parts
Rear:
If using the stock dog bones and axle stubs, you have a few options depending on how much more width you want.
One is the .7mm wider hexes
http://www.losipartshouse.com/KYOUMW...youmw523gm.htm
Those will give you .7mm per side in width and simply replace the stock wheel hex. Super easy to do. Only down fall, is with some aftermarket wheels, you may have less threads to use the wheel nut on. A low profile serrated wheel nut will likely have to be used.
Next option is/are the longer 3 lined axle stubs.
http://www.losipartshouse.com/KYOUM5...youm510-02.htm
Those will give you 2mm more per side if you shim them out at the hub. Can use the stock wheel hex or the slightly wider one if you wish. Replaces the stock 2 line axle stub. Will need to use a single 2mm shim, 2-1mm shims, or some .5mm shims to get what you want. Not as simple as just swapping out wheel hexes, but you'll likely have the most adjustment and you shouldn't have to worry too much about the wheel nut. Main down side is that depending on how you have the rear pivot mount set (wide or narrow) you may need a shorter dog bone to set the correct plunge in the out drive (either from being too far in or out)
If not using the stock drive lines and using something like the MIP Pucks system,
You might be able to use a wider wheel hex like maybe an AE one (I'm not 100% positive here) or you'd need to use wheel spacer that goes between the hex and the wheel.
http://avidrc.com/product/5/accessor...cessories.html
I believe jConcepts also make something like those. Only down side that I can see is you might not have enough threads to use a stock wheel nut on. Again maybe a low profile serrated wheel nut needs to be used. Also would have to remember that you have those on when you swap wheels/tires so you don't get one stuck in the wheel and not know it. They should be real easy to use though.
That's pretty much it on the rear end.

Front:
You can also use the carbon wheel spacers mentioned above or the wider wheel hexes if you have the RB5 front hexes, which it sounds like you already do. Either of those will likely be the easiest to do it get what you want or need. If I remember correctly, the stock RB5 front hex setup is already wider than the stock RB6 stock setup by a couple mm's.
Now if you're using the stock RB6 front hex setup, then you'd have to either swap out to the RB5 front hex setup or figure out how to space out the stock RB6 hexes another mm per side. It can be done, Kevin King has done that I believe. I'm not sure what he did to do it though.

Hope that helps you out
Awesome post. Thank you!

As it happens I think I'm already running those referenced RB5 wheel shafts. I had just put them in experimentally and my AKA wheels now fit. Other wheels leave 2mm of potential track width adjustment each side.

My aftermarket RB5 alum hexes measure 5mm- same as RB6 stock.

Thanks for all the ideas.
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Old 07-24-2015, 02:53 PM   #12245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
Here's stock RB6 with 2mm spacer and RB5 with 4.5mm hex.
On both you could move the inner 1mm spacer to the outside for even more width. RB6 axle is a much cleaner and stronger setup. No pin to fool with. No cross hole. No chance of a crooked hex.

Nice,
How'd you set the back screw on the RB6 setup to keep from the axle from sliding out? The stock plastic shim for back there is a funky part that has a tapered end plus the molded in 1mm shim all in one part. That was my sticking point when I was thinking about moving my axles out another mm to be at the same width as the RB5 hex setup that a lot of locals tend to run.
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Old 07-24-2015, 02:54 PM   #12246
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
Here's stock RB6 with 2mm spacer and RB5 with 4.5mm hex.
On both you could move the inner 1mm spacer to the outside for even more width. RB6 axle is a much cleaner and stronger setup. No pin to fool with. No cross hole. No chance of a crooked hex.
Interesting. My RB6 was bought used and didn't come with the stock axles. Which aftermarket hex is that on the RB6? Would it fit and center on an RB5 axle?
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Old 07-24-2015, 02:58 PM   #12247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raz14 View Post
Awesome post. Thank you!

As it happens I think I'm already running those referenced RB5 wheel shafts. I had just put them in experimentally and my AKA wheels now fit. Other wheels leave 2mm of potential track width adjustment each side.

My aftermarket RB5 alum hexes measure 5mm- same as RB6 stock.

Thanks for all the ideas.
The AKA's should have fit with the stock RB6 axles, with the axles sets to the stock 1mm outside spacing. If narrowed up, they won't fit, I had some proline front wheels that needed a little trimming to get about .5mm of clearance.

Anyway,
Glad the ideas will be of help to you. Not sure which one is better than another overall, lots of ways to do it for sure. I currently use the longer 3 line stubs with the wider hex on the rear. Seems to work pretty well traction wise.
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Old 07-24-2015, 03:00 PM   #12248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raz14 View Post
Interesting. My RB6 was bought used and didn't come with the stock axles. Which aftermarket hex is that on the RB6? Would it fit and center on an RB5 axle?
The hex on there looks to be the old blue anno.'d alum. from the RB5/ZX5 series and should fit front or rear on the Kyosho cars. Plus I think those old blue ones are a little cheaper than the new gun metal ones for some reason
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Old 07-24-2015, 03:07 PM   #12249
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The kit comes with a flat 1mm spacer and the tapered 2mm spacer. These new axles I bought came with a metal 2mm spacer and a plastic 1mm flat spacer so the 1mm is inside the hub with the screw. The screw sits perfectly on the inner bearing race so you could run no inner spacer and 3mm outside and still have all your thread for the nut.
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Old 07-24-2015, 03:16 PM   #12250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raz14 View Post
Interesting. My RB6 was bought used and didn't come with the stock axles. Which aftermarket hex is that on the RB6? Would it fit and center on an RB5 axle?
6 axles are 1 integrated unit. Very well engineered. Clean and simple. The K.I.S.S. method.
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Old 07-24-2015, 03:20 PM   #12251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
The AKA's should have fit with the stock RB6 axles, with the axles sets to the stock 1mm outside spacing. If narrowed up, they won't fit, I had some proline front wheels that needed a little trimming to get about .5mm of clearance.

Anyway,
Glad the ideas will be of help to you. Not sure which one is better than another overall, lots of ways to do it for sure. I currently use the longer 3 line stubs with the wider hex on the rear. Seems to work pretty well traction wise.
I just confirmed- I have the 3 line RB5 shaft/axle. Good to know it's a viable setup.

Hopefully the dog bones are set ok. I don't know which pivot set I'm running, but the bones are not in danger of falling from the outdrives.
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Old 07-24-2015, 03:22 PM   #12252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
The kit comes with a flat 1mm spacer and the tapered 2mm spacer. These new axles I bought came with a metal 2mm spacer and a plastic 1mm flat spacer so the 1mm is inside the hub with the screw. The screw sits perfectly on the inner bearing race so you could run no inner spacer and 3mm outside and still have all your thread for the nut.
K got ya,
The new axles you got, were they Kyosho ones? Good to know on the rear screw, I thought it might be a little close to not fitting or getting pulled through the bearing.
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Old 07-24-2015, 03:23 PM   #12253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raz14 View Post
I just confirmed- I have the 3 line RB5 shaft/axle. Good to know it's a viable setup.

Hopefully the dog bones are set ok. I don't know which pivot set I'm running, but the bones are not in danger of falling from the outdrives.
Also make sure they don't bottom out in the outdrive at full compression.
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Old 07-24-2015, 03:25 PM   #12254
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K got ya,
The new axles you got, were they Kyosho ones? Good to know on the rear screw, I thought it might be a little close to not fitting or getting pulled through the bearing.
Yup. I ordered the part # right from the manual.
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Old 07-24-2015, 03:35 PM   #12255
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Here's the latest oPAULo mod.
Hopefully won't be overheating for the rest of summer.
Fits perfectly with good clearance on both sides. 3mm spacers put it just behind the battery clamp.



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