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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 07-13-2015, 07:00 AM   #12196
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Hey guys most of u probably haven't seen me on here before but I'd like to proudly say that I have pulled my head out of my ass and am back running kyosho cars I've tried a few and there are some good cars out there but nothing makes me want to go race like my k cars. Thank god I'm back. Anyhow I am building a new rb 6 and am wondering if anyone knows where I can find some green anodized aluminum ballstud shims in .5,1 and 2 mm. Thanks for any help and hopefully I can get back to where I was as far as driving before my stupid move from kyosho.
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Last edited by eper; 07-13-2015 at 08:05 AM.
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:06 AM   #12197
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Are most guys running the brass weight in the car or any weight if so how much and where so u can get a descent starting point
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Old 07-13-2015, 05:24 PM   #12198
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I"m about to pickup an RB6 as my first Kyosho car and I'd like to get a set of Lunsfords turnbuckles with it. If I buy the kit that comes with the lunsford ball cups, will they also fit the longer kyosho cups? Or would I need a somewhat shorter set of turnbuckles for use with the longer cups? Thanks in advance!
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:49 PM   #12199
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I believe I have answered my own question but just in case someone else is wondering, there are two lunsford kits. One for use with the stock ball cups and one with their ball cups. The standard punisher kit LNS2687 for use with the stock cups and LNS36102 Super Duty with the Lunsford ball cups. Super Duty is 3.5mm vs Punisher size of 3mm.
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First car Kyosho Pegasus and RC10CE! More than 25 years Racing! Happy to lend a helping hand. Just ask! :)
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:51 PM   #12200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 13Maschine View Post
I"m about to pickup an RB6 as my first Kyosho car and I'd like to get a set of Lunsfords turnbuckles with it. If I buy the kit that comes with the lunsford ball cups, will they also fit the longer kyosho cups? Or would I need a somewhat shorter set of turnbuckles for use with the longer cups? Thanks in advance!
they make a set without the cups and that is what you want if you wanna use kyosho cups. the ones with the cups are 3.5mm super duty which are best used with their titanium ballstuds which are overall better setup because you can remove ballstud with cup still attached via a 2mm hex wrench. so you are not wearing out your ballcups everytime you wanna adjust roll.
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Old 07-14-2015, 12:11 AM   #12201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eper View Post
Are most guys running the brass weight in the car or any weight if so how much and where so u can get a descent starting point
I run the kyosho brass front pivot and the brass rf block. Running out door low to medium grip (proline holeshot type tracks)

Try some of k-kings setups are a good place to start. I'm currently playing with the sideways shortie and 3 line rear axels with the hex spaced out 2mm from the hub.
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Old 07-14-2015, 03:18 AM   #12202
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isnt moving the hex out going to give you more on power steerig.. ie loosen the car up but should make it feel more stable.. do you run those weights indoor and do you know how much they weigh off hand id rather try the car with led in it before i buy weights i may not like thanks for the reply
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Old 07-14-2015, 12:07 PM   #12203
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Anytime I went narrow on the rear pivot the car almost wanted to roll too much on itself and the rear end would feel very "spongey" and never really good. Once I pushed the tires out I kept the same roll, but the car was a lot more stable. I didn't really notice a ton of on power steering, I just noticed I was able to drive it harder but kept the same rear traction as before.
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Old 07-15-2015, 01:20 AM   #12204
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Switched to C-in C-in and got the clearance for the pucks but now I notice the axle is also rubbing the outdrive at full compression. I either need a shock limiter or long eyelets.

GUH...

With all the replacement parts I bought I'm kinda married to this MIP setup. The pucks really are nice though.
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Old 07-15-2015, 07:31 PM   #12205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eper View Post
isnt moving the hex out going to give you more on power steerig.. ie loosen the car up but should make it feel more stable.. do you run those weights indoor and do you know how much they weigh off hand id rather try the car with led in it before i buy weights i may not like thanks for the reply
The spaced out hex to me gives less side bite and more forward traction. Best of both worlds imo

The brass front bulkhead adds 24g

Not sure on the rf block, I would guess around 30g
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Old 07-16-2015, 01:00 AM   #12206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eper View Post
Hey guys most of u probably haven't seen me on here before but I'd like to proudly say that I have pulled my head out of my ass and am back running kyosho cars I've tried a few and there are some good cars out there but nothing makes me want to go race like my k cars. Thank god I'm back. Anyhow I am building a new rb 6 and am wondering if anyone knows where I can find some green anodized aluminum ballstud shims in .5,1 and 2 mm. Thanks for any help and hopefully I can get back to where I was as far as driving before my stupid move from kyosho.
axial makes green ones
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Old 07-16-2015, 03:31 AM   #12207
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thank you guys should be getting my buggy delivered today.. gotta work next 15 days straight but gonna try and have it ready for day 16 and hit the track.. hope everyone enjoys there racing and wrenching
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Old 07-16-2015, 06:04 AM   #12208
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Built my buggy last night at the track in between club racing. Not too bad of a build just some confusing parts. Just gotta solder it up and throw a setup in it and its ready to go
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Old 07-16-2015, 11:23 AM   #12209
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http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LW5181&P=1

$333.96
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Old 07-17-2015, 06:32 PM   #12210
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What gear cover do you use for the three gear mid motor tranny?
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