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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0°/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 06-08-2015, 08:25 PM   #12106
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Lucky me, I was able to get some good time at the track today. My mission was to get my new to me RB6 up and running. A racing buddy switched brands and gave me a killer deal on a roller set up for mod. We have a big 17.5 event coming up and I wanted in. 17.5 is in and I have another 17.5 for my SC6. Everything came together very well and I have to say I really like it.

As it goes another racing buddy made another offer I couldn’t refuse. He is selling me a killer 17.5 racer so when I get that rolling the other car goes back to mod. I know it could be worse.

I painted a JC Finnisher, with no point of reference I have no idea how it compares. I have a little push. Does any body give more front downforce?
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KYOSHO - RB6.6 17.5 Turf ~ RB6 17.5 ~ RB6 ~ RZ6 Turf ~ RT6 Turf ~ SC6 17.5 ~ SC6 ~ SC6 Turf ~ ST-RR Evo.2E
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Old 06-08-2015, 09:34 PM   #12107
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Originally Posted by GIHOSU View Post
Lucky me, I was able to get some good time at the track today. My mission was to get my new to me RB6 up and running. A racing buddy switched brands and gave me a killer deal on a roller set up for mod. We have a big 17.5 event coming up and I wanted in. 17.5 is in and I have another 17.5 for my SC6. Everything came together very well and I have to say I really like it.

As it goes another racing buddy made another offer I couldn’t refuse. He is selling me a killer 17.5 racer so when I get that rolling the other car goes back to mod. I know it could be worse.

I painted a JC Finnisher, with no point of reference I have no idea how it compares. I have a little push. Does any body give more front downforce?
Any body for the 6 is better than the finnisher. The best one for traction and steering is the proline Phantom. But my favorite all time is the stock blade body. Pretty in the middle of to much steering and too much traction. One to also look at that I have no experience with is the jconcepts silencer
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Old 06-09-2015, 12:08 PM   #12108
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Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
Excellent. Amain kept bringing up both when I searched RB6. When I replaced the servo horn I found the block was cracked on both sides but luckily the car came with a spare. The aluminum support looks fine though. No slop in the holes and it's never come off.

Thanks again guys. Hopefully I can move up the ranks on Saturday. I got faster every heat but still 2 seconds off the pace at the front. I could click off 2 or 3 good laps though so I know the car is close. I just get so dang nervous on the stand. One heat they announced I was in second and just turned fast lap for the heat and I completly fell apart. I was physically shaking. Good lord....
Maybe I need to wear headphones. Or get me a lil' flask. Haha!
Haha. It doesn't really go away. I race fairly often and I still get excited. I think I have just gotten more comfortable and confident that I can compete and that helps with nerves. Focus on your line and be aware of your surroundings. Pretty sure those two attributes are what they pro's do better than everyone else.
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Old 06-09-2015, 04:36 PM   #12109
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Do you think I've made the chassis too stiff or have weight too high running this shelf? I've moved the battery forward 1 notch to get some more steering so I could possibly get the SC on the chassis behind the battery.
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Old 06-09-2015, 06:50 PM   #12110
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I run my car like that. I struggle compared to the b5m in low grip outdoor, but as the grip comes up I have the advantage. That's in mod, I would keep my car this way for stock. The biggest problem is forward bite out of slow dusty corners. I currently working on an across car shorty.

More rear weight can give more entry steering and more forward traction/less steering on exit. Moving your battery forward can remove some entry steer but will turn harder on the gas.
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Old 06-09-2015, 07:03 PM   #12111
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What body are you running to fit that SC under it?
You run that battery right against the motor?
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Old 06-09-2015, 07:59 PM   #12112
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What body are you running to fit that SC under it?
You run that battery right against the motor?
Sc is a nosram which are the same as lrp flow, I run the kit body over it.

Battery is basically against the motor but I use a small wedge from the rt6 truck kit that bolts in under the motor.
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Old 06-10-2015, 03:38 PM   #12113
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Can anybody tell me when you do the shorty sideways mod. Do you mill the chassis so the battery sits flat on chassis?
Any info would be great.

Thanks
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Old 06-11-2015, 12:30 AM   #12114
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Originally Posted by kurtblastoff View Post
Can anybody tell me when you do the shorty sideways mod. Do you mill the chassis so the battery sits flat on chassis?
Any info would be great.

Thanks

As far as I know, that's how most that have milled their chassis, have done it.
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Old 06-11-2015, 02:31 AM   #12115
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I have not run it yet.
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Old 06-11-2015, 02:32 AM   #12116
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And without battery
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Old 06-11-2015, 11:14 AM   #12117
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Thanks for the info.
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Old 06-11-2015, 04:01 PM   #12118
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I milled mine similar, but I did it big enough so that I could move the battery forward and rear to use as a tuning option. Unfortunately, I removed the side guard screw holes making them unusable. I didn't like the result and replaced the side guards, so that I could go back to inline and use the side mounting screw holes. Removing the side guard screw holes and removing that much of the chassis caused it to flex too much and lessening steering.

I've gone back to the inline method. It works for me and I like the amount of steering that I have. I'm sure if I left the side guard holes in place the sideways option would be viable.
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Old 06-11-2015, 08:23 PM   #12119
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I am very pleased with my RB6 after my first ever buggy race. It is MM set up from the front with Hitec 8775, Rx, Viper VTX10BE/BE17.5 33/69 and a Fantom 4600 Pro shorty sideways stuck to the chassis with the thick Kyosho anti-vibration mounting tape and the side guards are cut just enough to lock it in all the way back. Tires were 4 rib fronts with SS Impacts out back and my Finnisher body. The track is medium to high grip clayish surface that is new and can change quite quickly with the weather.

In the B main 3 bad laps out of 12 wasn’t bad and I ran a fast lap of 23.1 compared to my Mod SC6 at 22.9. The fast lap in the A was a 21.7 and the winner had about 1 lap up on my time. For a first time out, 3rd with 7 of 13 cars running made me pretty happy.

I have some ESC and motor swaps to do, race night can’t come soon enough…
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TEKNO - SCT-410 ~ SCT-410.3
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Old 06-12-2015, 09:53 AM   #12120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kurtblastoff View Post
Can anybody tell me when you do the shorty sideways mod. Do you mill the chassis so the battery sits flat on chassis?
Any info would be great.

Thanks
you can do either from what I've read.i just milled out guards and used double sided tape as pad under battery to level it with chassis
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