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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 06-05-2015, 01:13 PM   #12076
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FYI Kyosho shock shafts are harder than hammered pig s*@t!! Tried to straighten it and it shattered like carbide. Only thing I could find is a SLASH hardened titanium nitride coated shaft. It is identical in every way except it is 3.95mm longer. Trying to work out stroke and spacers right now. Mainly worried about bottoming the piston in the shock. Thoughts?
We gone race tomorrow byGod!!
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Old 06-05-2015, 01:37 PM   #12077
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
FYI Kyosho shock shafts are harder than hammered pig s*@t!! Tried to straighten it and it shattered like carbide. Only thing I could find is a SLASH hardened titanium nitride coated shaft. It is identical in every way except it is 3.95mm longer. Trying to work out stroke and spacers right now. Mainly worried about bottoming the piston in the shock. Thoughts?
We gone race tomorrow byGod!!

You could possibly cut down the shaft to almost the lower e clip line and then
Very carefully take a thin cut off wheel on the Dremel and grind in a new lower e clip line in the shaft. It's not a prefect solution, but was something I used to do back in the day in a pinch. I done right, it works pretty good, get it wrong (new e clip groove not deep enough to fully seat the clip) and the bottom e clip won't stay on.
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Old 06-05-2015, 01:41 PM   #12078
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Stock shaft is 3.43mm away from bottoming the piston when it's assembled so it will need 3mm internal shim and 1mm external and this will give me the same stroke, 1mm longer shock, and .5mm piston clearance when the shock is bottomed.
Anyone see any issues with running the piston so close to the top of the shock?
Think 1mm longer shock is going to ruin it?
Best I can do and be on track in the morning.
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Old 06-05-2015, 01:47 PM   #12079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
You could possibly cut down the shaft to almost the lower e clip line and then
Very carefully take a thin cut off wheel on the Dremel and grind in a new lower e clip line in the shaft. It's not a prefect solution, but was something I used to do back in the day in a pinch. I done right, it works pretty good, get it wrong (new e clip groove not deep enough to fully seat the clip) and the bottom e clip won't stay on.
That's a beautiful idea. That would actually make them identical. I'm a machinist by trade but don't feel like driving all the way to the shop and not sure I have a groove tool that thin anyway. And I ain't spending half the day grinding a tool. Imma measure some cutoff wheels.
Thank you sir!

BTW tomorrow is the grand opening of SRI raceway in Louisville KY. From what I've heard, I'll have the only RB6.
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Old 06-05-2015, 02:31 PM   #12080
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Muahahaaaa....

Did a few test cuts on the broken shaft.
I'm happy. Here we go.
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Old 06-05-2015, 02:50 PM   #12081
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
Stock shaft is 3.43mm away from bottoming the piston when it's assembled so it will need 3mm internal shim and 1mm external and this will give me the same stroke, 1mm longer shock, and .5mm piston clearance when the shock is bottomed.
Anyone see any issues with running the piston so close to the top of the shock?
Think 1mm longer shock is going to ruin it?
Best I can do and be on track in the morning.
I may be thinking about this wrong but I would have used the short eyelet and put 3.5mm spacer(s) on the shaft externally. Should have gotten you through the day and been fairly close.
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Old 06-05-2015, 02:54 PM   #12082
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Originally Posted by cnelson3 View Post
I may be thinking about this wrong but I would have used the short eyelet and put 3.5mm spacer(s) on the shaft externally. Should have gotten you through the day and been fairly close.
I'm not yet up to speed on eyelet lengths but I think I have the shorts on already. Shorts on all 4 corners I believe.

Edit: This car came from Milwaukee.
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Old 06-05-2015, 02:57 PM   #12083
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So ya, Tebo called me looking for a set of titanium nitride coated shock shafts. Imma hook him up. LOL!
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Old 06-05-2015, 05:28 PM   #12084
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Good enough for government.

I'd laugh if the cut shaft end has a negative effect on fluid dynamics within the shock...
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Old 06-05-2015, 05:54 PM   #12085
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Originally Posted by Jpdanger View Post
Good enough for government.

I'd laugh if the cut shaft end has a negative effect on fluid dynamics within the shock...
I'm a long way away from knowing what your talking about and even farther from being able to feel the difference.
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Old 06-05-2015, 07:57 PM   #12086
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Got it all buttoned up. Fresh carbide diff. Fresh pucks. Fresh gears. Fresh Schelle slipper pads. Fresh shock oil. 2x1.6 front and rear. 30wt. front. 27.5wt. rear. Took it down the road and WOW is this thing smooth and quiet. Can't wait to race tomorrow!
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Old 06-05-2015, 08:02 PM   #12087
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
So ya, Tebo called me looking for a set of titanium nitride coated shock shafts. Imma hook him up. LOL!
so, is that a Tire ring?
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Old 06-05-2015, 08:04 PM   #12088
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so, is that a Tire ring?
Ya wife and I have a thing for dual sport bikes.
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Old 06-05-2015, 09:54 PM   #12089
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Just purchased the new rear arms with the extra mounting holes. Hardto tell which if the three holes is the same as the single mounting hole from he older arms? Also, does anyone know the effct it will have on the handling if you move the shock bottom to the inner or outside hole. Thanks.
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Old 06-06-2015, 12:15 AM   #12090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
That's a beautiful idea. That would actually make them identical. I'm a machinist by trade but don't feel like driving all the way to the shop and not sure I have a groove tool that thin anyway. And I ain't spending half the day grinding a tool. Imma measure some cutoff wheels.
Thank you sir!

BTW tomorrow is the grand opening of SRI raceway in Louisville KY. From what I've heard, I'll have the only RB6.

Glad you liked the idea. It's old school for sure, but if it works, it works. Lol


Quote:
Originally Posted by oPAULo View Post
Muahahaaaa....

Did a few test cuts on the broken shaft.
I'm happy. Here we go.
Looking good glad it appears to have worked out the way you needed it to. If I remember right, it doesn't take too long to do once you have it all ready to go.
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