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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 05-30-2015, 11:13 PM   #12061
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yodace View Post
Need a starting setup for high bite carpet ?
https://jtprc.files.wordpress.com/20...var-carpet.pdf
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Old 05-31-2015, 12:43 PM   #12062
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Thx
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Old 06-01-2015, 01:24 AM   #12063
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I think the idea is to increase the distance between the hinge pin on the hub and the hex. When you compare what some other brands are doing, that distance is considerably greater than what is on the 6 series of hubs. Essentially you are increasing leverage the chassis puts on the suspension and causes the weight to transfer back farther/faster. The last time I tried it, I had too much grip and I couldn't get the car to keep weight forward enough to turn on power. I didn't spend much time working with it because we had a big race coming up and I thought it would be better to run what I knew versus trying to figure something out during the race program. I ordered a set of 3 line axles with the 62.5 bones to try out. I have plenty of 65.5 bones if I need to switch them out.
Do you have a part number for these longer axles?
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Old 06-01-2015, 04:57 AM   #12064
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Do you have a part number for these longer axles?
um510-02. I recommend getting the axles only. I bought the axles with the bones and the 62.5 bones are just too short.

I worked on my setup this last weekend and raced both Friday and Saturday. By Saturday, the car felt better than it ever had for me. I ended up going back to the inside hole on the old arms with the long eyelets and 26.5 droop. I really like the 3 line axle setup.
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Old 06-02-2015, 06:10 PM   #12065
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What does toe all do. I see so many different set ups c in d in so on. I know what makes what degree but what's that translate in to.
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Old 06-03-2015, 05:12 AM   #12066
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What does toe all do. I see so many different set ups c in d in so on. I know what makes what degree but what's that translate in to.
I have been having sort of the same question lately. When looking at the chart, it would appear that different options of the inserts offer the same degree of toe; for example, B-in + B-in = 3.0 degrees and D-in + D-in = 3.0 degrees. I used the B-in + B-in on my buggy since it would seem to offer the most options to easily change the toe while still using the "in" blocks (up to 4.0 degrees). Most setups I see use C-in or D-in for both, however. Does that really make a difference?
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Old 06-03-2015, 09:16 AM   #12067
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Originally Posted by joncmack View Post
I have been having sort of the same question lately. When looking at the chart, it would appear that different options of the inserts offer the same degree of toe; for example, B-in + B-in = 3.0 degrees and D-in + D-in = 3.0 degrees. I used the B-in + B-in on my buggy since it would seem to offer the most options to easily change the toe while still using the "in" blocks (up to 4.0 degrees). Most setups I see use C-in or D-in for both, however. Does that really make a difference?
It translates to toe in and track width and it make a huge difference. When you use the same pill front and back the toe in will be 3' but at different widths. D-in/D-in is narrow and D-out/D-out is wide. In general narrow locks in the rear and wide helps it rotate. Hope this helps.



http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...structions.pdf
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-chart.jpg  
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:35 AM   #12068
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Originally Posted by Arcain41 View Post
It translates to toe in and track width and it make a huge difference. When you use the same pill front and back the toe in will be 3' but at different widths. D-in/D-in is narrow and D-out/D-out is wide. In general narrow locks in the rear and wide helps it rotate. Hope this helps.



http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...structions.pdf
Correct....however, what I'm asking is, is there a difference between using D-in/D-in vs. using B-in/B-in?
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Old 06-03-2015, 11:45 AM   #12069
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Originally Posted by joncmack View Post
Correct....however, what I'm asking is, is there a difference between using D-in/D-in vs. using B-in/B-in?
Both are 3 degrees of toe, so no difference in the toe in for either. Mainly a pivot/track width difference/feel. Depending on how you want the car to feel/react would be the biggest difference in which one you'd want to run, B-in/B-in or D-in/D-in.

About 1.5mm in hinge pin pivot width between the two if I measured it out right.
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Last edited by Teufel Racing; 06-03-2015 at 10:21 PM.
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Old 06-03-2015, 02:45 PM   #12070
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Correct....however, what I'm asking is, is there a difference between using D-in/D-in vs. using B-in/B-in?
It translates to wider track width. The complete rear end is more narrow or wider without changing toe.
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Old 06-03-2015, 08:57 PM   #12071
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Can anyone tell me what the gearbox ratio for the 3 gear and 4 gear system. Thanks
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Old 06-03-2015, 09:02 PM   #12072
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The transmission ratio is 2.6 to 1. Same for rear, mid, 3 or 4 gear.
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Old 06-04-2015, 03:33 PM   #12073
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When are we going to see the optional three gear tranny available for sale?
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Old 06-05-2015, 05:10 AM   #12074
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Anyone know of a rear shock shaft that's the same as RB6? Just found a bent one and hoping to race tomorrow. Nobody around here carries Kyosho. Might have to try to straighten it....
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Old 06-05-2015, 11:55 AM   #12075
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When are we going to see the optional three gear tranny available for sale?


If I had to guess,
Possibly sometime after the worlds. Kyosho doesn't always get some stuff designed and produced quickly, albeit, there could be times when they should. But the time line is just a guess on my part. Who knows, they could have things already done up and ready to go and just not telling anyone so they can debut the stuff at the worlds. Just a thought.
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