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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 05-27-2015, 10:45 AM   #12046
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Originally Posted by K_King View Post
For those who may run on a track where it may get a little wet, this is what I ran this weekend. It felt really stable and had really good grip considering how loose the track was in certain spots.

I forgot to mention I run the low height ballstud on the spindle so I can have 0 bump.

I'm going to try the long axles again. I really think their is something to this. I noticed how locked in the back was last time I tried it. I didn't have a lot of time for a setup so I ended up going back but I did like the grip I got. May even try going with the forward battery again.
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Old 05-27-2015, 12:01 PM   #12047
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Sorry if this has been covered previously. Is anyone making a 3 gear trans for this buggy in mid motor. I would like to try it out but have not found anything
whats wrong with the 4 gear?
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Old 05-27-2015, 04:54 PM   #12048
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whats wrong with the 4 gear?

Nothing wrong with the 4 gear. I run mostly stock so I would like to try the 3 gear trans to see how I like it.
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Old 05-28-2015, 12:59 AM   #12049
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Originally Posted by cnelson3 View Post
I'm going to try the long axles again. I really think their is something to this. I noticed how locked in the back was last time I tried it. I didn't have a lot of time for a setup so I ended up going back but I did like the grip I got. May even try going with the forward battery again.
Been running the long axle stubs pretty much from day one. There's definitely a little something to it. Rear track width adjustments are usable with them, unless you go to too much of an extreme, Say going Din/Din on the rear pivot and then keeping the 65.5 bones, spaced 2mm in. You'll get a lot of dong bone plunge that will bind.

I'd suggest using the 1mm spacers so you can play with the track width a bit more without going too extreme, or better yet, grab some of the Traxxas .5mm Teflon shims for a greater amount of track width adjustments. Word of caution with the Teflon shims, they will slip,over the axle stub lip on the ball end if left to wear for too long. I had that happen already. You can use the kit metal shims on the ball end side of the stub then the Teflon shims, that seemed to fix the issue for me.
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Old 05-28-2015, 02:32 AM   #12050
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing View Post
Been running the long axle stubs pretty much from day one. There's definitely a little something to it. Rear track width adjustments are usable with them, unless you go to too much of an extreme, Say going Din/Din on the rear pivot and then keeping the 65.5 bones, spaced 2mm in. You'll get a lot of dong bone plunge that will bind.

I'd suggest using the 1mm spacers so you can play with the track width a bit more without going too extreme, or better yet, grab some of the Traxxas .5mm Teflon shims for a greater amount of track width adjustments. Word of caution with the Teflon shims, they will slip,over the axle stub lip on the ball end if left to wear for too long. I had that happen already. You can use the kit metal shims on the ball end side of the stub then the Teflon shims, that seemed to fix the issue for me.
I think the idea is to increase the distance between the hinge pin on the hub and the hex. When you compare what some other brands are doing, that distance is considerably greater than what is on the 6 series of hubs. Essentially you are increasing leverage the chassis puts on the suspension and causes the weight to transfer back farther/faster. The last time I tried it, I had too much grip and I couldn't get the car to keep weight forward enough to turn on power. I didn't spend much time working with it because we had a big race coming up and I thought it would be better to run what I knew versus trying to figure something out during the race program. I ordered a set of 3 line axles with the 62.5 bones to try out. I have plenty of 65.5 bones if I need to switch them out.
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Old 05-28-2015, 04:40 AM   #12051
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In the UK we race in the rain a lot (because it rains a lot) and believe it or not wet astroturf can be like ice!

One of the things I've been working on is trying to increase the rear traction out of slower speed corners in ways other than running the lipo sideways (I don't like that as I find it dulls the car on astro and looses too much steering feel everywhere ... our tires are very different to dirt tires remember).

Running the longer (3 line) axles with the spacer between the hub and the hex really helps.

If you need to go further then you can always run the original RB5 / ZX5sp (non-FS) rear wishbones UM503 / LA255 which are shorter by 2mm or so per side.

Combine the two and the car starts to feel a bit like a B5M that still has the RB6 steering feel.
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Old 05-28-2015, 08:20 AM   #12052
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Originally Posted by RogerM View Post
In the UK we race in the rain a lot (because it rains a lot) and believe it or not wet astroturf can be like ice!

One of the things I've been working on is trying to increase the rear traction out of slower speed corners in ways other than running the lipo sideways (I don't like that as I find it dulls the car on astro and looses too much steering feel everywhere ... our tires are very different to dirt tires remember).

Running the longer (3 line) axles with the spacer between the hub and the hex really helps.

If you need to go further then you can always run the original RB5 / ZX5sp (non-FS) rear wishbones UM503 / LA255 which are shorter by 2mm or so per side.

Combine the two and the car starts to feel a bit like a B5M that still has the RB6 steering feel.
good to know. So the hot bodies crew made a hybrid rb6/b4 centro and we just found out it needs longer axles or hexes in the back. Very cool. Can't wait till my parts get here.
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Old 05-29-2015, 08:21 AM   #12053
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Anyone taking screws out of top or bottom of waterfall for more flex on med bite outdoor tracks.
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Old 05-29-2015, 09:55 AM   #12054
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Anyone taking screws out of top or bottom of waterfall for more flex on med bite outdoor tracks.
I had taken out the top two screws out, not for outdoor, but for more flex.
I think most were taking out the bottom two out, but I was lazy and didn't want to peel back or put on a new chassis procector on. Lol. It works, unless you're trying to run the sideways battery.
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Old 05-29-2015, 08:47 PM   #12055
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Quote:
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Anyone taking screws out of top or bottom of waterfall for more flex on med bite outdoor tracks.
You can just back the lower two off a half turn gives a lot more flex
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Old 05-29-2015, 11:06 PM   #12056
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Default Reversing motor rotation

I've been running my RB6 on carpet and want to know how to reverse my motor rotation so I can run a 3 gear set up like Naoto. I have an R10.1 speedo and a VST2 6.5. Here is a pic of my battery set up and electronics. I'll try to get a video of my car soon too. Anyone know how to do it.
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Old 05-29-2015, 11:54 PM   #12057
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You shouldn't need to reverse motor direction. The 3 gear transmission has 1 less idler gear, which flips the direction the diff will spin to cancel out the motor being mounted on the other side as compared to the 4 gear transmission.
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Old 05-30-2015, 12:53 AM   #12058
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Derek, Naoto is running a three gear trans mounted in the same orientation of the standard 4 gear. The only possible way to run it like he does would be to reverse the motors rotation.
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Old 05-30-2015, 01:16 AM   #12059
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Most likely the motor is set to 0* or negative endbell timing and the rotation is reversed in the ESC software. That setting is in some esc's programming parameters.
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Old 05-30-2015, 07:29 PM   #12060
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Need a starting setup for high bite carpet ?
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