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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-29-2015, 11:31 PM   #11836
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Dumb question. Moved upper camber link to the middle of bulkhead was outside will I have to adjust lower tierods also. Can't seem to get it centered back up .
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Old 03-30-2015, 05:55 AM   #11837
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Originally Posted by E73 View Post
What does running a Medium vs. Large ball end type on the front/rear shock do for handling besides moving the shock collar up and down the shock body for a given ride height? I see Tebo is running L fronts and M rears which is the opposite of what the manual specifies. I presume it has something to do with vertical travel?
it increased the amount of droop the arms have if he is still running the standard front shock tower. The fronts arms will hang lower basically. it does a couple things. on acceleration, the chassis can rise more in the front which transfers weight backwards more. When the car is leaning in a corner, it will allow the car to lean over further. And it should absorb bumps and landings better. The down side is that if you don't add weight to the front end, it will cause an on power push. I have been trying these setups lately and noticed the key to making the extra front droop work is the extra weight with the aluminum or brass front suspension mount added.

It does change suspension travel though. It actually reduces the vertical travel to 19mm from roughly 20mm with the medium eyelets.
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Old 03-30-2015, 08:04 AM   #11838
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So this might seem a little overboard but has anyone measured and did the math on the angles the rear toe blocks provide? After googleing right angle trig (because it's been a while) I did the measurements and came up to 2.7* on the toe blocks without the pills. Then I did the measurements on B in/A and came to 3.2*. Technically speaking, what I thought was 3.5* is closer to 3* than the included spec sheet says. Anyone took the time to measure and calculate?
Sorry, I am to busy testing durability of the components on the car and the pipes at the track. So far, both have been holding up well.
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Old 03-30-2015, 08:50 AM   #11839
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So my mid motor will show up on Thursday "BUT" found a local guy selling a newly built rear motor complete with Tekin Gen 2 ESC, Gen 2 10.5 motor, Spektrum 6040 servo, many aluminum and carbon upgrades too from Kyosho, Lunsford and Exotek. Seems nothing is stock on this thing, ready to run with hardly a scratch and a huge parts bag all for a whopping $330!

So by Thursday I will have 2 like new 'ready to run' cars, one mid motor one rear all for $680. I will try them both and sell the one I don't want!
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Old 03-30-2015, 11:28 AM   #11840
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Sorry, I am to busy testing durability of the components on the car and the pipes at the track. So far, both have been holding up well.
I did the same measurements with the kick up and I'm getting a little over 2* with the half millimeter shims. I not an engineer so I may be doing something wrong but some of this makes sense when compared to other cars. After a local fast guy told me that a different manufacturer accidentally thought something was 3* when the actual cad drawing proved 2.6*, I thought I would try measuring my stuff just to double check.
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Old 03-30-2015, 02:30 PM   #11841
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Originally Posted by cnelson3 View Post
I did the same measurements with the kick up and I'm getting a little over 2* with the half millimeter shims. I not an engineer so I may be doing something wrong but some of this makes sense when compared to other cars. After a local fast guy told me that a different manufacturer accidentally thought something was 3* when the actual cad drawing proved 2.6*, I thought I would try measuring my stuff just to double check.
Hmm...I wonder if a setup station is needed.

I think in the long run that when you find something that works on your car as good as it is now, you will write it down. Then when you try something else and it doesn't work as good you will go back to what you originally wrote down thinking it was 3 degrees rather than installing the parts it would take to get the measured 3 degrees.

Oh, btw, everyone on tech is an engineer. Just a different type.
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Old 03-30-2015, 09:09 PM   #11842
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What size bit is used when doing this?
2.5mm ideally
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Old 03-31-2015, 07:00 AM   #11843
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Originally Posted by SoCalMX View Post
So my mid motor will show up on Thursday "BUT" found a local guy selling a newly built rear motor complete with Tekin Gen 2 ESC, Gen 2 10.5 motor, Spektrum 6040 servo, many aluminum and carbon upgrades too from Kyosho, Lunsford and Exotek. Seems nothing is stock on this thing, ready to run with hardly a scratch and a huge parts bag all for a whopping $330!

So by Thursday I will have 2 like new 'ready to run' cars, one mid motor one rear all for $680. I will try them both and sell the one I don't want!
Car last night at LRH was just sick. Running slicks on the fresh tacky clay was insane. Mid-,Motor stock with no light weight anything, and the car was out accelerating 3 gear B5Ms.
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Old 03-31-2015, 07:09 AM   #11844
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Car last night at LRH was just sick. Running slicks on the fresh tacky clay was insane. Mid-,Motor stock with no light weight anything, and the car was out accelerating 3 gear B5Ms.
im pulling all the lightweight stuff out of mine and changing the battery layout. i hated my car at ocrc.
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Old 03-31-2015, 03:03 PM   #11845
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love my mm rb6 at ocrc!
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Old 03-31-2015, 03:29 PM   #11846
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im pulling all the lightweight stuff out of mine and changing the battery layout. i hated my car at ocrc.
What are you changing it back to?
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Old 03-31-2015, 04:08 PM   #11847
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Hi, I have the rtr rb6 I bought last year.ive been upgrading it slowly. Servo, receiver, steering rack, turn buckles, shock caps, body,wing, now motor and esc..going LRP 8.5 and my question is being a gear diff what fluid would you run and any suggestions on slipper? I'm thinking 3 to 4k
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Old 03-31-2015, 05:01 PM   #11848
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What are you changing it back to?
I'm gonna run the shorty sideways. I tried inline in my b5m and wasn't a fan. Figured since most people run inline on the rb6 that's what I would start out with. My car was extremely twitchy with a pretty standard ocrc setup for the rb6.
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Old 03-31-2015, 05:11 PM   #11849
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Wouldn't making changes to the cars setup, front tires, etc, be more beneficial than heavily modifying the car?
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Old 03-31-2015, 05:33 PM   #11850
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Wouldn't making changes to the cars setup, front tires, etc, be more beneficial than heavily modifying the car?
I already changed pistons, oils, springs, tires, etc etc. I'm not heavily modifying the car just turning the battery sideways. It's been done plenty of times already.

And the car is under weight so I'm just removing the puck system.
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