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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 10-07-2012, 08:11 AM   #1171
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Did the diff nut look like this?
yup, exactly. if you look at a lot of tamiya parts, they are similar to kyosho but slightly smaller or larger. i'm guess the threads were the same and the non-threaded part was slightly smaller/bigger.
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Old 10-07-2012, 10:14 AM   #1172
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Finished my build today, well almost. Still have to paint the body and wing. Came in at 1470g, minus body, wing and transponder.
Typical Kyosho quality build, first rate.
I had one small problem that took a while to fingure out. After I build the transmission(Rear mount), I noticed it didn't spin free. It would tighten up at regular intervals as I spun it. It turned out to be a little flashing on the inside of the idler gear. When the bearings were inserted(they were a very tight fit), it would distort the gear enough to when ever that portion of the idler contacted the diff gear, it caused a little excess drag. After deburring the idler gear, the bearings went in much easier, and the transmission spun like a top.
Race-ready for Blinky 17.5 is 1535g.
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Old 10-07-2012, 10:47 AM   #1173
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Went a little different route and made the window one piece instead of two. What do you think?
Damn, one of the best looking paint jobs I've seen on any car. Nicely done.
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Old 10-07-2012, 11:17 AM   #1174
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Landed this week, if I build it'll be in mid config.

Still using my DB1
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-image.jpg  
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Old 10-07-2012, 11:19 AM   #1175
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Originally Posted by mikeyscott View Post
Landed this week, if I build it'll be in mid config.

Still using my DB1
My DB1

Rb6 hasn't left boot of my car and has been there since Friday
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Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread-image.jpg  
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Old 10-07-2012, 12:04 PM   #1176
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are the diff balls in this kit the standard steel diff balls or are these carbide?
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Old 10-07-2012, 12:15 PM   #1177
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Originally Posted by Eric Tomczyk View Post
Here's my issue with "squishing and expanding" the plastic bushings. Yeah it works to take up the slack when assembling the car, but the bushings will expand on both the OD and the ID, so when it comes time to remove the shocks for setup/service/whatever, the bushings will be stuck to the threads of the mounting bolt and be a PIA to remove. Then you will have to drill it out to make it serviceable. Shock bushings are not an easy part to drill. Starting to border on too much secret handshake custom work to make it right, maybe the big K did make a mistake, which isn't a big deal they're human after all.
So I'm finally cleaning up after the build and started taking off the parts on the trees and clearing out all the non transferable RB5 stuff out of my box. In my box were some metal bushings... 5.8mm. Then on the trees there were some similar sized bushings??? Well they are 5.8mm too, the same ones used in the RB5 plastic shock caps. So the manual must be wrong. You can either use the bushings which have a 4mm shim like lip on them or cut the the lip off and it will punch directly into the shock cap. Part 11 is only for the bottom eyelet only. I don't know if Kyosho meant to use the bushings with the lip or not. I'll post a picture of the part in a few and attach to this post with the mic on it. I have spares so I'm going to mount them up both ways and see which makes the shock straightest with the arm.
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Old 10-07-2012, 12:18 PM   #1178
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Originally Posted by cnelson3 View Post
are the diff balls in this kit the standard steel diff balls or are these carbide?
Steel diff and thrust
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Old 10-07-2012, 12:25 PM   #1179
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First time out with the car,
I didnt make a single change to my setup, IT WAS THAT GOOD,

My Friend Josh (noproblem209) finished 3rd in 17.5 buggy with his rb6.

My Rb6 was hooked all night was able to put the car were i wanted, with great rotation and loved the forward bite.
TQ and Win A1 and A2, wraped it up quick...


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Old 10-07-2012, 12:47 PM   #1180
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Old habits die hard, but has anyone used the x-gear grease and lube instead of AE grease and lube? And is it better? My diff is unbelievably smooth but if the x-gear is better i'll tear it down and rebuild before I take it out again.
I built up my kit/diff with the included X-Gear greases and the diff is butter smooth with numerous 8 minute runs at race pace. I will continue to use these lubes when it's rebuild time.
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Old 10-07-2012, 02:27 PM   #1181
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Steel diff and thrust
I've been told by Kyosho Europe they are tungsten carbide diff balls.

I use RudeBits balls these day plus also have some mip balls left from my Losi xxcr

Also ordered carbon battery brace

http://www.rudebits.co.uk/product_in...roducts_id=383
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Old 10-07-2012, 03:08 PM   #1182
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Steel diff and thrust
Mine were Tungsten Carbide.
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Old 10-07-2012, 03:09 PM   #1183
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Originally Posted by desertracerdad View Post
I built up my kit/diff with the included X-Gear greases and the diff is butter smooth with numerous 8 minute runs at race pace. I will continue to use these lubes when it's rebuild time.
Good to know they are good. Would like to get rid of everything AE I still have left in my box. Which are the lubricants lol....
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Old 10-07-2012, 03:28 PM   #1184
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Originally Posted by slick1 View Post
First time out with the car,
I didnt make a single change to my setup, IT WAS THAT GOOD,

My Friend Josh (noproblem209) finished 3rd in 17.5 buggy with his rb6.

My Rb6 was hooked all night was able to put the car were i wanted, with great rotation and loved the forward bite.
TQ and Win A1 and A2, wraped it up quick...


That's what I'm hearing from everyone who drives it, it's near perfect right out of the box. I know mine was. I may play with the setup knowing there is a track change coming, but I doubt it will need much. A friend of mine who has it changed his pistons to Losi 55's and dropped the oil to 32.5/30. Might give that a shot, other then that I don't think it will change much to adapt the car to the new layout. Hell tires aren't even broken in yet.
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Old 10-07-2012, 03:34 PM   #1185
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1 View Post
Mine were Tungsten Carbide.
My bad...I never knew the tungsten made the carbide magnetic. I managed to dig the diff balls from ths garbage lol.
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