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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-27-2015, 08:08 AM   #11821
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Looks like my buggy will come with 2 Reedy bats, one 65c & the other 75c. I am planning on buying 2 new batteries so what is a good mah & 'C' rating to go with? Is there such thing as too high C rating?
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Old 03-27-2015, 10:11 AM   #11822
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Quick question that I am sure has been asked but I could not find anything. I just bought this vehicle and was wanting to see if anyone had a picture of the hole to drill in the arms for the Zack Rogers setup
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Just buy the new arms from Kyosho with the holes already there.
Yes, you will want the UM713B arms if you can find them.
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Old 03-27-2015, 10:12 AM   #11823
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Originally Posted by SoCalMX View Post
Looks like my buggy will come with 2 Reedy bats, one 65c & the other 75c. I am planning on buying 2 new batteries so what is a good mah & 'C' rating to go with? Is there such thing as too high C rating?
In my opinion C rating is a marketing ploy because there is no industry standard. Although I will not buy a 20c battery if I can buy a 40 or higher one.
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Old 03-27-2015, 10:47 AM   #11824
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In my opinion C rating is a marketing ploy because there is no industry standard. Although I will not buy a 20c battery if I can buy a 40 or higher one.
There us a noticeable difference between the punch of my reedy 65c and my orion 100 especially In stock.
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Last edited by jpcopeland1; 03-28-2015 at 06:50 PM.
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Old 03-27-2015, 10:56 AM   #11825
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Yes, you will want the UM713B arms if you can find them.

Come to find out I have those arms on the buggy that I just bought. I just could not believe that the third hole was so far in. Anyways it looks like A main has those arms in stock for anyone looking for them

Thanks for everyone's help
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Old 03-27-2015, 11:32 AM   #11826
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There us a noticeable difference between the punch of my reedy 65c. Attery and my orion 100 especially In stock.
True. I think you will also find resistance to play a part in that feeling as well but we hardly ever see resistance numbers these days.
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Old 03-27-2015, 05:23 PM   #11827
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Hi peeps, just in the middle off building this buggy and can't make up my mind weather to go mid motor or rear motor, i run on a medium size out door track which is high traction on race day most of the time, but can also loose traction quickly and become very dusty, what i'd like is some advise from people that have run both setups and what they found, by the way i will be running a 7.5t motor in the modified class any advise will be greatly appreciated.
Any body
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Old 03-28-2015, 02:12 AM   #11828
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Any body
I would honestly say for track conditions that can change that quickly your better off going rear motor, won't upset the car as much as it would in mid when the track goes away, proper tires will be crucial for any outdoor track. See what the fast guys are running and follow suite.
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Old 03-28-2015, 05:20 AM   #11829
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Anybody that's running a square pack let's see your layout please
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Old 03-28-2015, 06:52 PM   #11830
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What size bit is used when doing this?
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Old 03-29-2015, 10:05 AM   #11831
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I used a 1/16 I believe. Just enough to get a 3mm screw in.
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Old 03-29-2015, 04:20 PM   #11832
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Those running AE wheels what locknut are you using?
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Old 03-29-2015, 04:30 PM   #11833
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Those running AE wheels what locknut are you using?
I am not running AE wheels but if you have very little thread left to put the nut on you can try these, 1-4045F.

Or you could get different axles. I think Avid sells some.
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Old 03-29-2015, 07:15 PM   #11834
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So this might seem a little overboard but has anyone measured and did the math on the angles the rear toe blocks provide? After googleing right angle trig (because it's been a while) I did the measurements and came up to 2.7* on the toe blocks without the pills. Then I did the measurements on B in/A and came to 3.2*. Technically speaking, what I thought was 3.5* is closer to 3* than the included spec sheet says. Anyone took the time to measure and calculate?

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Old 03-29-2015, 11:15 PM   #11835
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Default Ball end type question

What does running a Medium vs. Large ball end type on the front/rear shock do for handling besides moving the shock collar up and down the shock body for a given ride height? I see Tebo is running L fronts and M rears which is the opposite of what the manual specifies. I presume it has something to do with vertical travel?
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