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Old 12-21-2016, 08:46 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Last edit by: tobamiester
RB6.6 Kyosho America Product Page: http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/ULTIMA-...T_p_24505.html

RB6.6 Manual http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...A_RB6_6_IM.pdf

RB6.6 Kyosho Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_sR667utY

MSRP $639 MAP $399.99

-------------------------------
New RB6.6 parts (compared exploded views, prices and links are Kyosho America):

Chassis:
  1. Main chassis - UM731 - $125.99
  2. Side guards - UM732 - $9.99

Battery Holder:
  1. Battery plate - UM733 - $8.99
  2. Battery foam - UM741 - $7.99

Rear Bulkheads:
  1. MM3 and Laydown - UM740 - $9.99
    • MM3 bulkhead
    • Laydown bulkhead
    • Swaybar Holders

3 Gear Transmission (MM and RM):
  1. Transmission - UM734 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • plastic FR & RR suspension hangers

  2. Gear Cover - UM735 - $6.99

Laydown Transmission (3 and 4 gear possible):
  1. Transmission - UM736 - $10.99
    • transmission cases
    • spacers
    • caps
    • required extra hardware
    • pastic FR suspension hanger

  2. 40T idler - UM737 - $6.99
  3. Motor plate - UM738 - $18.99
  4. Gear cover - UM739 - $6.99

Body:
  1. Blade body - UMB05 - $27.99

Optional Parts:
  1. Lightweigt Blade body - UMB05LW - $31.99
  2. Aluminum FR suspension hanger - UMW705B - $28.99 (may be able to file UMW705 to fit)
  3. Brass FR suspension hanger - UMW725B - $30.99 (looks more different than UMW725..someone confirm?)

Typical Upgrades for new RB6.6 Buyers

UMW701 Aluminum Steering Plate (RB6)
UMW702 Aluminum Crank Arm (RB6)
UMW704-0 V2 Aluminum Rear Hub Set(0/RB6)
UMW705B Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RF/RB6.6) or brass UMW725B
UMW707 Aluminum Rear Sus. Holder (RR-Mid)

Nice to have:

UMW723 Aluminum Front Sus Block (Type B/10g/RB6/RT6/SC6).


Aftermarket Parts:

Front Wing: https://www.prolineracing.com/perfor...mount-alum-rb6

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Old 03-18-2015, 11:53 AM   #11791
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I want to use different ball studs/cups because I hate popping off the ball cup to make adjustments. Has anyone switched theirs out for another company? I was gonna use associated but their quality sucks so I was thinking about Yokomo. Does anyone have any input?
I picked up a set of Lunsford ball studs and then used my tire punch to make the holes in the Kyosho ball cups so I could get the wrench into the ball stud. No issues so far.

The B5 series ball studs are bigger than the B4 so they have new ball cups too. From what I have seen, they are pretty strong too and guys/girls are putting them on their 44.3's.
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Old 03-18-2015, 06:17 PM   #11792
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Brown View Post
I want to use different ball studs/cups because I hate popping off the ball cup to make adjustments. Has anyone switched theirs out for another company? I was gonna use associated but their quality sucks so I was thinking about Yokomo. Does anyone have any input?
I actually used Losi 22 series ball studs on my rb6 and then just used a tire punch to make a hole in my stock ball cups. Works great and cheap.
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Old 03-23-2015, 01:31 AM   #11793
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whats the front block do 25 or 30 degree.
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Old 03-23-2015, 04:35 AM   #11794
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Both. It depends on which way it's put on. I haven't seen anyone use the 30 degree side.
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Old 03-23-2015, 08:21 AM   #11795
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Picked up a used rb6 that was in pretty rough shape this weekend. I've already replaced the front/rear arms. Installed the clear x-rings. New bulkhead and front shock tower. New sideguards and top deck are on order along with the aluminum rear arm mounts. Also ordered the schelle slipper and top shaft for it. Gonna be racing stock with it.



Almost done wiring it up just waiting for the new side guards to come in. I also swapped out the stock ball cups and turnbuckles for some with holes in the ball cups. I'll be swapping over the ball studs today.

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Old 03-24-2015, 07:13 AM   #11796
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Is it better to run a sideways battery or inline battery when you race stock?
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Old 03-24-2015, 07:17 AM   #11797
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Is it better to run a sideways battery or inline battery when you race stock?
I ran it both ways and didn't notice a drastic difference either way. That being said, all the fast guys at my track are running it in-line
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Old 03-24-2015, 07:23 AM   #11798
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Is it better to run a sideways battery or inline battery when you race stock?
i really couldnt tell you. i've never driven an rb6 before. im coming from a b5m and i always ran the batter sideways. but most rb6's i see in at my local track run inline setups.
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Old 03-25-2015, 07:51 AM   #11799
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So i finally got my car ready to go and i weighed it. this is completely rtr with 2.2 tires front and rear. only light weight parts i know of for sure installed on the car are pucks and schelle top shaft and nova slipper. My question is, are these cars always this light? Im coming from a b5m that weighed 1535g with a ton of light weight parts installed...

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Old 03-25-2015, 07:53 AM   #11800
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Mines 1550 with no light weight parts either at all. So I would say it's just a light car.
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Old 03-25-2015, 08:17 AM   #11801
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Just not used to my car being so light lol. it was A LOT of work to get my b5m down to even 1535g lol
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Old 03-25-2015, 03:37 PM   #11802
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If you ever get inspected at the track, I'm pretty sure the roar minimum is 1499 grams. Nice looking buggy!
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Old 03-25-2015, 06:38 PM   #11803
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Originally Posted by mjbtaco View Post
So i finally got my car ready to go and i weighed it. this is completely rtr with 2.2 tires front and rear. only light weight parts i know of for sure installed on the car are pucks and schelle top shaft and nova slipper. My question is, are these cars always this light? Im coming from a b5m that weighed 1535g with a ton of light weight parts installed...

can you get us a picture of your car with the body off and on the scale. Your car is 100g lighter than i could ever get mine. What chassis are do you have?
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Old 03-25-2015, 07:38 PM   #11804
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I have one almost new B5M with all the goodies on it, and it's still a tank. Another Purpose built (almost) a lightweight b5m (no aluminum anywhere) and it's not even finished, and nowhere close to being in the 1500s. Should sell em all and run a stock RB6 lol....
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Old 03-25-2015, 07:42 PM   #11805
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Originally Posted by mjbtaco View Post
Picked up a used rb6 that was in pretty rough shape this weekend. I've already replaced the front/rear arms. Installed the clear x-rings. New bulkhead and front shock tower. New sideguards and top deck are on order along with the aluminum rear arm mounts. Also ordered the schelle slipper and top shaft for it. Gonna be racing stock with it.



Almost done wiring it up just waiting for the new side guards to come in. I also swapped out the stock ball cups and turnbuckles for some with holes in the ball cups. I'll be swapping over the ball studs today.


Is that Kevin Smiths old car? It does have pucks installed.
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